Ittybitty's BJV4 XR10

[ittybitty]

Well I've been enjoying beating on my XR and haven't had any of the issues that supposedly "plague" this new rig. I did change out the bearings in the transmission for Avid bearings upon first assembly and of course I made sure to tighten all of the screws on the rear axle with nyloc nuts a little more than you would think is necessary. I've got around 10-15 packs through it with no issues other than with one of my HH BRXL's which is currently on its way back to me...thanks John!

CURRENT Specs (check end of thread for recent pics:

Axial XR-10 Kit #51282
Y-Town BJV4 Chassis in WHITE
Castle Creations Mamba Micro Pro's (2)
Team Brood Limited Edition Matched 45T motors
Futaba 4PK and 614 Rx
Hitec 7950TH Servo
Castle BEC @ 6.0V
Sky Lipo 1000mah 40C 3S Lipos
Losi Gold springs all the way around
Lunsford Titanium Links (110mm front uppers/lowers, 115mm rear uppers, 135mm rear lowers)
Losi Boss Claws
Nova Firm Inners/Soft Outters up front
Losi Boss Claw Pink Foams in rear
Robitronics Long (R17002) Clamping Servo Horn
VP Servo Guard
VP DH2's with CI delrin discs and 2oz weight w/ 585 hubs and CDW 1/2 size spacer on each side
VP SLW V4's w/ 600 hubs
VP Zero Ackerman Knuckles
VP Chubs
VP Lockouts
VP Transmission Cases
VP Motor Plates
VP Front Upper Link Mount
VP Brass Knuckle Weights w/ 1 extra 1/8" ring on each side
RC4WD HD Gears F&R
Axial Titanium Gear Shafts F&R

It weighs in at 6.2 RTR lbs currently.

The build from the beginning...

The slugs were a little dirty when I got em...

After a little Nevr Dull and some elbow grease...

The first time around this is how I had it set up...similar to Jason's

 

[ittybitty]

Then the last couple days I've been working on cleaning things up a bit. I removed the stock electronics tray and made up a polycarbonate tray to hold everything and also allowed me to remove the battery holder too.

Excuse the wiring...I've got things cobbled up for the time being since I'm short one ESC and still wanna crawl. I've been running without dig for the last week.

 

[M_ENERGY]

I wanna see your new delrin upper links:ror:

 

[ittybitty]

You got it buddy...

 

[dragrcr]

I think you got your chassis backwards....... It's not symmetrical...

 

[Robbs2001tj]

The chassis is correct he has moved the upper shock postion. Looks Awsome. Love the paint color.

 

[dragrcr]

No, it's backwards, the short side is the front of the chassis, he has it backwards, on his truck the delrin links are on the rear, and that is the short (front) of the chassis

 

[ittybitty]

WOW...never noticed that...I'll get busy swapping it around. Thanks and for those of you that didn't believe it either check this out:

"Now it’s time to start assembling the chassis. Open Bag “H” and grab the required chassis components for this step. Build your front shock ears per the instructions and set them aside for now. Meanwhile, assemble the rear shock ears and attach them to the chassis plates. Take note that the chassis is not symmetrical."

That's taken directly from the axial site (http://axialracing.com/wordpress/2010/08/30/xr10-build-part-4-chassis-assembly/). You can see that they have mounted the battery tray on what is the front of the chassis and if you compare the areas that the shock mounts attach to front and rear there is most certainly a difference!

THANKS DRAGRCR!!!

 

[lowridinjuggalo]

think i have seen that rig before lol looking good man..

 

[ittybitty]

yeah we missed a couple of ya'll today...

 

[dragrcr]

Cool, at least it will be right now lol, I was looking at your pics, and I knew something was wrong but it literally took 5 min. For me to catch it.

 

[ittybitty]

Now I'm just curious to see what difference it will make...just waiting on my esc to show up...hopefully today!

 

[ittybitty]

Well the second ESC came back and set things straight...everything is back to working correctly. I had a visit from the brown truck today too...

I'm really impressed and happy with the wheels. Now I'll be able to spend more time tuning the rig and messing with foams and weight. I was holding off on messing with the foams until I settled on which wheels I wanted. What you see are the SSZ-11 in raw finish with 350 hubs all around. Currently I have the full 5.5 Nova DD with firm inners and soft outers on the front and soft inners and memory outers in the rear. I also picked up a racers edge servo horn and some servo clamps

 

[ittybitty]

I measured the width with the new wheels and as it sits now the front is right at 10 7/8" and the rear is right around 10 1/4" maybe a little less

I also realized I got in a hurry and threw the drag link on the outside of the servo horn and need to change it back around.

I'm also moving the rear shocks out on the axle mounts using a spare rod end ball and a M3 x 25mm button head screws...the ball will just take the place of the shock between the tabs on the axle.

while I had things apart assembling the wheels I removed the rear axle and tore it down to check the bearings and gears. All of the bearings are in good shape (i used Avid bearings in the tranny) and the gears are not showing any signs of wear. I cleaned everything up and applied another coat of grease before sealing it back up.

 

[lowridinjuggalo]

the wheels look good man.. any differance sence u changed the chassy back around

 

[ittybitty]

Yeah turning the chassis back around helped the rear upper links clear the electronics box and fixed the problem I was having trying to get the rear of the chassis to be higher than the front...those are just the two most obvious changes.

I'm looking forward to picking up a different chassis that won't use the factory shock mounting or body mounting hardware. This stuff cramps the amount of room between the chassis plates. If this hardware was gone and the screws and nuts associated with them it would shave some weight as well as allow me to get the electronics lower in the chassis.

 

[ittybitty]

Well I got to test out the new wheels and the changes I made to the suspension geometry tonight. I would have rather made one change at a time so I knew what helped but I will say that this thing works a lot better now.

I need to work on keeping the front end down on steep climbs so im gonna start by moving some weight around in the chassis, then if that doesn't do it I'll tweak the rear suspension...and if that doesnt get it I'll play with weighting the front...but thats the last resort...I'm really liking its current weight.

 

[HOLLYWOOD7]

No, it's backwards, the short side is the front of the chassis, he has it backwards, on his truck the delrin links are on the rear, and that is the short (front) of the chassis

Don't worry that wasn't the first backward chassis on this website lol I'm just glad I saw that in the manul when I built mine.

 

[ittybitty]

Yeah I'm still just glad he said something...

 

[dragrcr]

It has turned into a second hobby now