Installed 80mm Big Bores on my Ultra.

[GTSLOW]

Here we go! Built another set of these fantastic 80MM shocks for my Class 1!

Step 1) Identify the section you'll be filing off:

Step 2) File away! I start with a coarse file to get close and a jewelers flat file to finish it off. I do not flatten the top:

Step 3) Identify the inside dimple you'll be drilling:

Step 4) Drill away. I start with a small 3/32 or 1/16":

Step 5) Finish the hole off with a 3mm drill and prepare for installing the rod end:

Step 6) Use a generous amount of thread locker inside, install the screw, wipe any threadlocker off that is now outside the cap, and install the rod end:

Step 7) Finish building your shocks and your newly modded caps:

*Note - the shafts are slightly long for the bodies. I use about 3/16" of silicone fuel tubing.

 

[GA Dawg]

Step 6) Use a generous amount of thread locker

I didn't think you were supposed to use thread lock on plastic.

 

[Munchagepeople]

This is great!

I ended up using a very slightly different method:

1) I hacksawed off the original hoop (I hear dremel cutting wheels are quicker for this), filing down any burrs.

2) Then I drilled with a 7/64" bit, and tapped for M3 (this part isn't great, maybe 3/32" would work a little better, an M3 tap wants 2.5mm, 3/32"=2.38mm, 7/64"=2.78mm)

3) Screw on the rod end, add oil & bleed.

I've heard of using thread lock to seal the hole, but shouldn't the diaphragm be doing that anyway? I attempted to use shoe goo, but had issues getting something I thought would seal while not gumming up the cap threads...

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I didn't think you were supposed to use thread lock on plastic.

It can make some plastics brittle.

 

[JPP]

Are you using front or rear mini-T springs?

Thanks in advance!

 

[GTSLOW]

I didn't think you were supposed to use thread lock on plastic.

I should have clarified that. The intended purpose of the threadlocker is to lock and seal that screw in place from the inside. No thread locker was actually used on rod end.

This is great!

I ended up using a very slightly different method:

1) I hacksawed off the original hoop (I hear dremel cutting wheels are quicker for this), filing down any burrs.

2) Then I drilled with a 7/64" bit, and tapped for M3 (this part isn't great, maybe 3/32" would work a little better, an M3 tap wants 2.5mm, 3/32"=2.38mm, 7/64"=2.78mm)

3) Screw on the rod end, add oil & bleed.

I've heard of using thread lock to seal the hole, but shouldn't the diaphragm be doing that anyway? I attempted to use shoe goo, but had issues getting something I thought would seal while not gumming up the cap threads...

Awesome! Have any pictures of how yours turned out?

It can make some plastics brittle.

Are you using front or rear mini-T springs?

Thanks in advance!

Hot Racing Losi Mini T 2.0 Linear Rate Front Spring Set MTT30FS148

This is the set I'm using. Spring rates feel the same as your typical Losi brand set. However, the colors are much more astheticaly appealing.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[GTSLOW]

Small update! I've now designed three additional shock cups. So we have 0, 2, 4, and 6mm preload. Essentially it's lime having an adjustable shock collar. Since mine have a slot you can change them on the fly too. Pics tomorrow....

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[Munchagepeople]

I'm kinda happy with how mine turned out:

I did hope that the diaphragms would stop any leaking without resorting to thread lock or shoe goo, but that wasn't the case and I need to tear them apart and fix that. Only one shock is leaking, so I guess my drilling/tapping was better on the other 3 caps :ror:

 

[GTSLOW]

These shocks have become quite popular locally. I've modded a few for friends. I would HIGHLY advise installing the fuel tubing on the shock shaft. The top of the shaft will impact the diaphragm and potentially cause leaks from the cap area.

I have not seen one leak yet with the fuel tubing mod.

NOTE: A friend installed a set on his VS4-10 Pro and they are SICK!

 

[Munchagepeople]

These shocks have become quite popular locally. I've modded a few for friends. I would HIGHLY advise installing the fuel tubing on the shock shaft. The top of the shaft will impact the diaphragm and potentially cause leaks from the cap area.

I have not seen one leak yet with the fuel tubing mod.

NOTE: A friend installed a set on his VS4-10 Pro and they are SICK!

The tubing is a good idea -- increasing the height of the spring cups by 3/16" should have the same effect, no? (I have a .stl for the cups and a 3d printer, but no fuel line )