I'm getting the RC4WD 4Runner, is TF2 only/best?

[Dogahn]

Saw the RC4WD 4Runner when it was a preorder and told myself I'd buy that if I ever sold my 1:1 4RN. Well... that time has come, so now I'm an RC Crawler noob shopping.

Update:
I've crawled the internets digging deeper into chassis to start with. Got to admit the SCA-1E Brat is looking really tasty right now. The chassis goes down to 285mm fitting well into the 4Runner wheelbase, and the Brat is a thing I've always admired but never could own.

I've also come back around to the SCX II and its 287mm wheelbase, likely depends on if i get a good deal.

Then there's the TF2, and GD it those Yota II axles are offset, have the bumps, and the leaf mounts. It truly is the best chassis for looks. I just know I'll break it though.

That said, thanks for looking. I think I hit that point where I'm gonna poke around some more and look into what people are running until I finally pull the trigger on something. See you around!

------ End Update ------

Here's what I'm prioritizing:
1a. Stock Approximation
1b. Maintainability
3. Value (Costarts)
4. Performance
​

Appearances gets the bump over Maintainability due to the goal of recreating the rig I had and frankly the body kit covers 90% of that. Performance goals are pretty low as I'm not interested in competition, and I enjoy technical scale driving over speedy/extreme driving. Now I know the hardbody kit I'm getting is made for TF2, so here's my thoughts that I'd appreciate some people's thoughts.

TF2 Truck Kit - Has all the looks but always out of stock and $380
TRX-4 - Seems to have more community, better out of box value at $280
SCX10 - Common intro rig, accesible but more breakable $200
GEN8 - Newcomer, good Value $170 (sale ended today, fml)

Now those are just the bare kits which with another $90 for a wheelset I like gets me a shelf queen; so the other question I got as a guy who has no RC gear, are the electronics worth it up front or can I get a better deal if I wait? Cause I'm really considering that GEN8, and making a 1:10 scale model that I can future RC.


Also: As a former Pirate4x4 guy, I love you all got the here.

 

[Dogahn]

Also if anyone here seen a set of rims that best replicate these...

The stamped steel is just something I had as a spare that'd I'd take over the MC/BFGoodrich kit's wheels or 1.9's on the others I listed above.

 

[Inspector86]

First, Welcome to RCC!
I have both the TF2 and TRX4. The TF2 is a very disappointing chassis and is nothing more than a shelf queen these days. The TF2 is poorly engineered and uses soft plastic which strip screws if you look at them funny. The TRX4 is the polar opposite, it is well engineered and uses a high quality plastic and once assembled is tough as nails. There is a very large and growing aftermarket selection of upgrade parts. The TRX4 is by a wide margin the better chassis. Virtually any 1/10 scale body can be made to fit on virtually any chassis it just takes a little planning to make it happen.

 

[Timmahh]

FYI, you can buy just the body sets and then install them on another rig. The Stock Electronics in the RC4WD will be pretty close to the basic enough to cut it.
The one drawback is most of these RC4WD bodies have an 11.3 Wheelbase while most of the decent rigs have a 12.5 WB. So it takes a little work to fit an RC4WD Body on as they are a smidge smaller than most proline or RTR bodies these rigs come with.

I am currently doing two SSD/RC4WD builds One as a leafer with 11.3 wb to fit the body and be scale as I can.
The other is the 2nd SSD kit built per manual. The goal on this one is to make it look like some redneck (me, lol) stock a Blazer on a K15 Truck 4X4 Frame. and its looking great. lol

So the RC4WD units are ok in some areas, not very good in others. You can put in a better ESC, Motor and Steering servo in the RC4WD Kit. But as noted earlier, there are other qualms to be worked through to be a decent runner without much issue (including scale daily driver/light duty trail running).

Some people really like them though. I may end up buying one to say I did, and have first hand knowledge of the actual issues and how to solve or get around them.

 

[Dogahn]

This is my third attempt at posting replies in here, previous two used multiple quote function and failed to post...

@Inspector86 - Thank you! Your response fits in with other issues I've seen around the RC4WD TF2 discussions. Your relationship with the TF2 seems to be the thing I am trying to avoid, I don't need that much money sitting on a shelf because it's always needing repairs. I'm also really liking the electronics package on the TRX4's.

@Timmahh - Dang dude, I was misremembering the 4Runner wheelbase as 12.3 not 11.3. Even if I'm running wheels 0.7 smaller in diameter, I don't think I'm gonna fit them under the wheel wells on the GEN8 or TRX4 Sport. TRX4 Scale and Trail gets down to 300mm (11.8 iirc) and that might be jut enough to fit smaller wheels in a stock approximate location.

Now I think it's coming down to how important leaf springs are to me. Wannabe mechanic in me is all about the leafs, ubolts, shackle flips. The I don't got time for that and would rather be driving says close enough is fun enough. Then again I could get the TF2 frame and put the TRX4 electronics in there... lol, lovely conundrum I have here.

 

[Timmahh]

The 4 Runner may be a 12.3 wb. Not sure. The RC4WD Blazer body is 11.5ish. The SSD Kit is set to 12.3 wb, It can go down to 12. or longer for a truck etc... but to fit the RC4WD Blazer body, when converting to leafs, I had to position the mounts in the right place to get the wb good for the leafer build.
I have not had or checked a 4 Runner. So be sure to check that info out if you do grab just the body and go to install it on a different base rig.

Just passing out info to be aware of. Not personal Experience beyond my RC4WD Blazer Body/SSD leafer build.

The leafer build is going full out scale. I didn't realize how large the 1.9 wheels would be on it. So I ordered 1.5s and the rims should be here in a few days.
The 1.5 looks way more scale. The 1.9s with the RC4WD Blazer body looked like 33s/35s/, not stock wheels/tires.

 

[Timmahh]

the lecys will probably be 'good enough' in the RC4WD Kit. And they'll get you out and you can fix/upgrade later/as needed.

However, if the other parts fail prior to the elecs, well, you know that game.

But if one is to have a conundrum, a good one is always preferable. lol

 

[JatoTheRipper]

The RC4WD trucks are basically moving models. They are fragile and their performance is that of a stock, daily driver truck and not much else.

The TRX-4 is the highest quality truck on your list. It's also one of the funnest.

The SCX10 II isn't a bad truck. It performs very well, but it's not the best quality out of the box.

 

[ferp420]

the trx4 might be the best quality rig out of the box but they have there problems too mostly there electronics most rtr electronics dont last vary long but traxxasss electronics always fails on me on the first pack
besides the 4 runners dident have portal axles
i would.say scx platform or the ssd trail king or the element enduro

 

[JatoTheRipper]

the trx4 might be the best quality rig out of the box but they have there problems too mostly there electronics most rtr electronics dont last vary long but traxxasss electronics always fails on me on the first pack
besides the 4 runners dident have portal axles
i would.say scx platform or the ssd trail king or the element enduro

Traxxas RTR electronics are fine. They are comparable to any other RTR out there and arguably better than most. But he mentioned a $280 price which means he's probably talking about the TRX-4 Sport Kit. That doesn't come with electronics so your complaint is totally invalid on this thread.

 

[Dogahn]

Ok, seriously wth is up with the reply function here? I just had 20min of replies vanish.

@Timmahh - yeah man, I'm trying to avoid that whole trailer queen turned into shelf queen dilemma. The OG had too many simple fixes, that you can't do living in apartments, come up all at once. Ran fine, 85 Toyota, just leaked more than I could park on site, so rather than desperately holding onto my past...

@ferp420 - Oh I know about the portals, but I am willing to compromise on 100% accuracy if it means I can enjoy the RC more than a YOTA2 with Leafs could let me. After having the real thing for oh... 15 years, my expectations on the RC might be a little high.

@JatoTheRipper - The TRX4 seems to be the best value and while the sport can't shorten enough the scale & trail can get really close. Close enough with enough electronics to make me overlook the quality of life inaccuracies. Then again I haven't unlocked the classifieds yet, maybe I can find a cheap TF2 chassis no electronics and have my fancy model to build on over time.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Ok, seriously wth is up with the reply function here? I just had 20min of replies vanish.

@JatoTheRipper - The TRX4 seems to be the best value and while the sport can't shorten enough the scale & trail can get really close. Close enough with enough electronics to make me overlook the quality of life inaccuracies. Then again I haven't unlocked the classifieds yet, maybe I can find a cheap TF2 chassis no electronics and have my fancy model to build on over time.

You lost replies? Please explain.

 

[Dogahn]

You lost replies? Please explain.

Right now I think it's time based. If I hit reply, or build up multiple replies and then spend a good amount of time (15min+) writing out my thoughts and responses; when I hit submit it says it's working but post never shows up, just vanishes. At first I thought it was waiting mod approval, but after a day and looking from another device I didn't see my post. What I got working right now is that I write out the comment then copy it, reload the reply page, paste and submit. Post gets submitted within 30s, and its worked every time.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Right now I think it's time based. If I hit reply, or build up multiple replies and then spend a good amount of time (15min+) writing out my thoughts and responses; when I hit submit it says it's working but post never shows up, just vanishes. At first I thought it was waiting mod approval, but after a day and looking from another device I didn't see my post. What I got working right now is that I write out the comment then copy it, reload the reply page, paste and submit. Post gets submitted within 30s, and its worked every time.

Odd. I don't think I have that happen unless my browser automatically refreshes.

 

[kANAkSz]

Don’t go with a Gen8 chassis unless you don’t mind chopping the front & rear shock mounts or removing the rear mounts all together & using a TRX-4 cantilever kit in its place.

Currently working on an RC4WD runner body on a Gen8 chassis & it took som finagling to get it to sit somewhat decent with cutting holes into the body.

Had to swap lower links to axial 11.3” wheelbase links & give it some lift to get the axles somewhat centered. On a budget, it works for me. Lol.

Anything can fit, just takes some creativity getting it to work & sitting how you want. [emoji1690][emoji1690]

This is my rig rn on a temporary rear shock setup until my cantilever kit arrives. & just in case you want to ask, it’s a Hawaiian style themed runner. Based off of trucks I see here everyday & one I had back in high school. Lol.
https://youtu.be/hOgTzpVEfWY


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[Dogahn]

Anything can fit, just takes some creativity getting it to work & sitting how you want. [emoji1690][emoji1690]

Nicely done!

As much as I appreciate the redcat gen8 (and the axe edition with a brushless motor, 6ch FS GT5 tx/rx, and more) the axles were too wide. Definitely not the look I'd be going for. So my attention shifted over to the Gmade Sawback, which they make portal kits that fit those axles too. Axle wrap bars too.

Now I'm basically lying in wait. Need a good deal on a used roller (sawback/tf2), or some crazy Black Friday like sale to decisively swing my Scale vs Trail dilemma.

 

[MrBlank]

Right now I think it's time based. If I hit reply, or build up multiple replies and then spend a good amount of time (15min+) writing out my thoughts and responses; when I hit submit it says it's working but post never shows up, just vanishes. At first I thought it was waiting mod approval, but after a day and looking from another device I didn't see my post. What I got working right now is that I write out the comment then copy it, reload the reply page, paste and submit. Post gets submitted within 30s, and its worked every time.

If you take too long typing out a reply something definitely times out and it gets erased.
Any time it looks like I've typed out a serious couple of paragraphs or let it sit more than 5 minutes I highlight, cut, refresh and paste before posting just to be safe.
In the past I've lost more than one massive post due to waiting to long to hit the post button.

If you decides you really wanted leafs, the Sawback would be a far better choice than the TF2. But the axle pumpkins (although not huge) are big enough that you need to avoid really small tires.

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[kANAkSz]

Nicely done!

As much as I appreciate the redcat gen8 (and the axe edition with a brushless motor, 6ch FS GT5 tx/rx, and more) the axles were too wide. Definitely not the look I'd be going for. So my attention shifted over to the Gmade Sawback, which they make portal kits that fit those axles too. Axle wrap bars too.

Now I'm basically lying in wait. Need a good deal on a used roller (sawback/tf2), or some crazy Black Friday like sale to decisively swing my Scale vs Trail dilemma.

Yeah, I didn’t take into account how wide the axles were as I’m a still a noob. Lol. Learning by mistakes thru trial & error. [emoji1787][emoji23]

On the RC4WD deep dish wagon wheels, they stick too far out for my taste. Currently looking for set of 1.9s with a lower offset to sink the wheels in more. My current ones right now, the hex adapter is flush with the back of the rim & poke the wheels out farther than I would have liked.

My next budget build, I’ll hopefully be able to make a little more proper.

Looking forward to your build braddah. [emoji1690][emoji1690]


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