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I need some tips on painting a proline body...

some tips...
-paint the inside
-be sure the first coat is really thin
-let the coats dry fully before adding another coat
-paint dark colors first, if you light first the dark colors will show through the light
-back metalic colors with a another color (i back silver with white for example)
-scuff the body lightly with a brillo pad or something BEFORE washing (a dry brillo pad)
-wash the inside of the body with dish washing liquid...to remove any chemicals that are in there from the molding process
-remove the clear outer fil before applying stickers
-don't take off the out film before paint, do that afterwards
-if you use rattle cans try saking them in a hot water....well put them in a ziploc bag and get out as much air as possible...then put the bag in warm water....keeps the cans from getting wet.
-don't start or stop painting above the body...it will make the job look uneven
-since this is your first body (i'm assuming) keep it simple...like 1 or 2 colors..... i prefer 2 or 3 colors on my bady anyway...i don't have a airbrush for more precise painting....
-i like to make or mark my body mounting holes and antenna holes before i paint

wel...thats about all the tips i heard or saw or do.
 
If you are using the rattle can chameleon paint from checkers/pep boys that kind of thing, do not use the clear coat! Also, remember to apply in reverse order of what it says on the can. I think it says base, color change, clear. The body is your clear coat, color change then a back up color.

For masking, I find that electrical tape works really well, it keeps a good seal on edges. I find cutting the body mount holes before painting helps a ton.

As was said before, with metallic/candy colors, a backing must be applied. White will give the color a bright color, silver will give it a pearl/metallic flake color, and black will provide a dark dark candy color. When I did my candy blue backed with black, I did a light coat of silver before laying down the black, to lighten the color slightly.

Oh, and if you do multiple colors, accentuate the body's lines. A poor masking job/paint theme can ruin a body.
 
It was all the rage for a while, and I considered getting some myself, but I can't justify $20 for paint. If you have an airbrush its cheaper, and fascolor makes some stuff that is color change for cheaper, and I just remember hearing the warnings of people about the meant for exterior surface paints like the ones at checker.


Oh, a big big big tip. Make test strips before you paint! I usually cut the lip around the base of the body and test how many layers I will need for the desired result. I remember those color changing paints vary. Some only require something like 3 for a vibrant difference, and others required 5 or 6. So do a test strip.
 
all of my paint are made for rc bodies except the color changing one i hope to hell it dont chipp.......I got to say masking my LandCruiser sucks and tedious there is so much crap to mask off....so far I got my chrome pieces masked off and painted and damn they look good.....cant wait to show you guys....

ill get pictures up tomorow morning :flipoff:

thanks guys
 
to mask your stuff if yout going to do free hand masking use painters tape maid by 3m its usually blue or sometimes green and also if your not into hand cutting your masks just buy the parma ones and you should be able to find one to fit you licking and make sure you use dish soap and really hot water to wsh the inside of the body first and do not wipe off the excess water with a towel sit it on something such as a towel and let the inside drip dry
 
Hi bulletproofcustoms:

Let me ask you: I'd like to get an airbrush setup. Can you make a recommendation of what to get? I'd rather have something well made than have to upgrade later. (If you know of an online place that has been a good experience for you, by all means let me/us know).

Thanks for taking the time to help all of us. It really means more to us than you may think.

Migs
 
Hi bulletproofcustoms:

Let me ask you: I'd like to get an airbrush setup. Can you make a recommendation of what to get? I'd rather have something well made than have to upgrade later. (If you know of an online place that has been a good experience for you, by all means let me/us know).

Thanks for taking the time to help all of us. It really means more to us than you may think.

Migs

The Iwata Revolution or HP-CS Eclipse are the 2 that I use and are like surgical instruments. Well made and quality craftsmanship. I've used other brushes but the Iwata brushes are my favorites by far.

Coast Airbrush sells Iwatas and they offer free shipping on any purchase of Iwata airbrushes.
 
Thanks for the input, I went ahead and bought an introductory DVD from them to get and idea of the whole process. -Migs
 
Once you're ready to get the airbrush,you can't go wrong with the Iwata.
 
I use a badger airbrush and a Ultima Air TG. Avail at www.ultima-air.com. I also have the cheapies from harbor freight tools. those are good for puting down a base or just covering up something. I'm in the process of doing a couple bodies and just getting into making stickers and vinyl graphics. good luck.
 
Painting tip question

Here is my question I know that any paint that you aplie to outside of the body is at high risk of damage and chiping. This is a fact that I would like to try and exploit. I was wondering how it would work to use a light gray primer or silver on the insde of the body to act as the the base coat that you find on a real car or the metal. then aply the exterior paint to the outside of the body. I want to do this so that when I hit a rock or roll it will show rock damage. Would this work the way I think it will?
 
tinymoo,
ilike that style as well. to see some examples you can look a few pages deep in this section & there are a few on here who have done it already."thumbsup" soooo where about in QC are you;-)? i am at ocotillo & greenfield.
 
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