Help building my Krazed Un-stuck crawler

[lonewolf8o]

I got a everest 10 a few weeks ago and really liked messing around with it so I decided to build my own crawler from the ground up. Wanted to support this forum and the sponsors so I've been ordering parts threw vendors here. Figured Id ask all the question in one thread to help others that may want to try building a rig from scratch.

Build list *Updated 1/9/17

Chassis:
Krazed Builds 2.2 un-stuck



Axles:
From Dlux -
Modded AX-10 housings
Titanium lower link set made for un-stuck chassis

From Rc bros-
Extended Zero Ackerman VP Steering Arm
Xr wide brass tubes for the front (wide width)
SCX10 Beef Tubes Aluminum out back (stock width)

From Locked Up Rc-
OT AX10 rear axle shafts
FI Spool's and bearings to build both axles.

Rpp-
Axial front universals
Vanquish wraith front knuckles c-hubs and weights
Vanquish scx10 rear lock outs
Hitec HS-7950TH servo and Hitec metal horn.



Transmission:
Factory locked AX-10 trans
Axial upgraded metal gears
SDI driveshafts



Shocks:
Rc Bros Egressor Assembled Shock Set
Krazed builds- SCX Shock Piston Tuner Set



Links:
Dlux lower titanium links kit for the un-stuck and sliders
Will make my own aluminum uppers



Tires/Wheels:
From member Purptr8r- Narrow Voodoo PIN tires, Gold front blue rear, CI narrow comp cut 6" soft front foams and 5.5 medium rear foams
Krazed Builds- 2.2 Hearts Competition glue on Carbon fiber wheel



ESC/Motor/BEC:
Holmes Hobby-
CrawlMaster Expert 540 13t
Holmes Hobbies TorqueMaster BR Mini RTR
Castle BEC



Radio:
I already own a Futaba 3pl, so I bought a micro Futaba R204gf-e receiver









Now on to some questions.

For starters what size and type cheap threaded rod do you guys use to make temporary rod links to get your length and bends figured out before you make your actual set?

On Krazed Builds Web site I see recommended link lengths but I figure that's if your using his front and back axle link mounts. Also it changes with whatever bends your doing and where your mounting it on the chassis right? Also heard of the 50/50 or 40/60 option, what are the pros cons of both? Also the legal 12.5" wheelbase thing. Does that mean it can be over that and fine or does it have to be under it or 12.5 exact? I'm guessing I should figure out the front and rear bottom links first then work on the top ones to set up pinion angle and clearances?

Thanks for any guidance,

Mike

 

[Natedog]

Most people use 8-32 and sleeve it with brake line. 12.3" wheelbase is good maximum imo, or a little less say 11.9". WB cannot be over max, that's why it' the maximum. Yes, start with lower links and adjust uppers to get pinion angles and caster. You may have to re-do some lower links to get it where you want it.

 

[lonewolf8o]

Thanks Natedog for the info. I was referring to temporary links to figure out length and bends.

Will be using 3/16 rod as final links based on this thread. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tool...ome-3-16-stainless-rod-tapping-revo-ends.html

RppHobby- Vanquish Wraith stage one kit

Dlux- Dlux's lower links front and back bent for the un-stuck chassis. Will be using the rods I purchase for the top links and for the steering.

I believe I have everything now to build the axles so one night I will start there and throw some photos up.

I moved on to what to do about wheels and tires? Its not going to be just on rocks. It will be used threw the woods type terrain , mud, dry dirt, water etc.

I saw Vanquish had a wheel I liked. SLW V2 Black/Clear Anodized.
SLW V2 Black/Clear Anodized 1.0in Wide - Vanquish Products

I like that I know it will fit with my stage one kit, comes with all parts (i know hubs are separate) and a nice basic design that's light. I don't like how I read it doesn't like certain tires. How do I know what ones or is it just that one they mention on their site?

The carbon fiber ones look sick but feel with the foam exposed going threw mud and water they will get ruined. Would they? Are they designed for that? I only saw those on trucks that were on rocks, so that's why I am assuming this.

The "scale" wheels as I guess they r called seem to all be about looking real and at a higher price to do it. I don't care for the scale look on this. So I figure I should save the money.

Any suggestion?

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

Good list of parts so far. A stock trans with a locked up slipper eliminator and metal center gear will last for years.

You missed the boat on the front axles and a few pieces though. Dlux modded universals and his brass knuckles will fit the inner c hubs you ordered and let you turn far sharper than what you have. 50 vs 70* steering doesn't sound like a lot until you're side by side.

As far as wheels I like slw's, I have a pair on the back of my sportsman. Bang for the buck it's hard to beat CI 6 bolt glue on whels though. I have 5 sets of them, light and take a beating. I also like shift hubs from lattice innovations (BC-Brian here on rcc) they are adjustable and don't come loose as often as slw hubs.

I wouldn't get too worried about mud & water intrusion into your foams since you're building a crawler not a trail or ttc truck. But if you do take it through a puddle the CI inner foam is waterproof so it's a non issue being exposed.

As far as tires voodoo and jconcepts have some great compounds but require different driving style to make obstacles.

 

[lonewolf8o]

Good list of parts so far. A stock trans with a locked up slipper eliminator and metal center gear will last for years.

You missed the boat on the front axles and a few pieces though. Dlux modded universals and his brass knuckles will fit the inner c hubs you ordered and let you turn far sharper than what you have. 50 vs 70* steering doesn't sound like a lot until you're side by side.

As far as wheels I like slw's, I have a pair on the back of my sportsman. Bang for the buck it's hard to beat CI 6 bolt glue on whels though. I have 5 sets of them, light and take a beating. I also like shift hubs from lattice innovations (BC-Brian here on rcc) they are adjustable and don't come loose as often as slw hubs.

I wouldn't get too worried about mud & water intrusion into your foams since you're building a crawler not a trail or ttc truck. But if you do take it through a puddle the CI inner foam is waterproof so it's a non issue being exposed.

As far as tires voodoo and jconcepts have some great compounds but require different driving style to make obstacles.

Thanks for the input. I read about the greater steering angles I could get with certain parts BUT I'm not competing and its more of a fun build so I figured I'd keep it simpler.

The thing with the cf wheels you make not sound like a issue and agree its more bang for my buck. So I'm cool with that. But some questions then.

Do I simply glue each side to the tire bead wait till it drys and assembly, that's it?

Will certain tires not work?

If i damage a tire can I pull the tire off the carbon fiber and re-glue a new tire to it? Or does a new wheel need to be ordered?

Will regular tire glue work?

I guess they offer a lot of clearance for knuckle weight systems?

I like Krazed Builds 2.2 Hearts wheels. What hubs will work with them and my set-up? What sizes are recommend to run in the front and back as far as hubs?

Thanks

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

I use regular thick CA for my tires gluing. I've used the fancy stuff supposedly made just for tires with no difference other than less money in my wallet.

Yes tires can be unglued and new tires installed. I use un-cure from hobbytown to release the glue and a dremel to clean up any hard residue leftover before installing new tires.

Any tire will work with a glue on type wheel.

I'll assume you're asking about CF wheels having more clearance for knuckle weights? They do have more room, as do crawler innovations 6 bolt wheels. With the VP wraith knuckles you can run most anyone's weight setup since most are built to be used with them. Rcbros, blue monkey etc all use those knuckles.

I'm running a G10 wheel up front from dlux which is a flat face wheel like what you're looking at. I am running basically a .625 hub to clear everything at full 70* lock. If you run shift hubs you can add spacers until you have exactly what you need.

 

[lonewolf8o]

I use regular thick CA for my tires gluing. I've used the fancy stuff supposedly made just for tires with no difference other than less money in my wallet.

Yes tires can be unglued and new tires installed. I use un-cure from hobbytown to release the glue and a dremel to clean up any hard residue leftover before installing new tires.

Any tire will work with a glue on type wheel.

I'll assume you're asking about CF wheels having more clearance for knuckle weights? They do have more room, as do crawler innovations 6 bolt wheels. With the VP wraith knuckles you can run most anyone's weight setup since most are built to be used with them. Rcbros, blue monkey etc all use those knuckles.

I'm running a G10 wheel up front from dlux which is a flat face wheel like what you're looking at. I am running basically a .625 hub to clear everything at full 70* lock. If you run shift hubs you can add spacers until you have exactly what you need.

So I know, cause I will order right now, these r what your talking about and they will bolt on to my axles fine and work with Krazed Builds carbon wheels I mentioned.

Thanks for fast reply
Sent from S5 using Tapatalk

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

Yes sir. Those hubs are great, I run them on all of my rigs

 

[lonewolf8o]

Awesome thanks. I like to do evening shopping when I've been drinking, I tend to buy everything I need lol

Sent from S5 using Tapatalk

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

Amazon brown Santa Tuesday is when all the stuff you bought on amazon while drinking on Saturday shows up that you don't remember buying. :lol:

 

[lonewolf8o]

Amazon brown Santa Tuesday is when all the stuff you bought on amazon while drinking on Saturday shows up that you don't remember buying. :lol:

LMAO

What screws do I need to order on this page?
Bolts/Screws

I notice it says 6 #4-40 and 6 2.5mm screws are used.
How many of each do I need to do all four? I prefer that website cause I have 10% off till tonight lol, so ordering tires now too

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

Screw length depends completely on which spacers you use. The holes in the hubs are half tapped 3mm and the other half are drilled to be tapped 4-40, they do not come tapped 4-40.

I'd highly recommend buying an assortment of screws ( I prefer srainless) so you have any possible combination you'll need. Rpp sells team knk assortments at a great price.

 

[lonewolf8o]

Screw length depends completely on which spacers you use. The holes in the hubs are half tapped 3mm and the other half are drilled to be tapped 4-40, they do not come tapped 4-40.

I'd highly recommend buying an assortment of screws ( I prefer srainless) so you have any possible combination you'll need. Rpp sells team knk assortments at a great price.

So I choose to go 4-40 or 2.5mm as far as screws? Or is it 3mm instead of 2.5mm I can tap too. Cause I have plenty of 3mm screws of different lengths and head types.

Does the screw go threw the wheel and spacers to the back of the hub where they screw in to hold it all together?

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

3mm. If you already have hardware then you're set.

 

[lonewolf8o]

Awesome, thank you for taking the time to explain this stuff to me.

Sent from S5 using Tapatalk

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

No problem, all of this crap can get confusing for sure.

 

[lonewolf8o]

No problem, all of this crap can get confusing for sure.

It sure can lol.

Today I ordered Axial's metal center gear set and Lock out's slipper eliminator. In another thread on here I heard about SDI's Propeller shafts and how I can cut them to size and are good quality. So I'll be ordering those later.

BTW
Whats the difference between the TORQUEMASTER EXPERT 540 and CRAWLMASTER EXPERT 540. I noticed the crawl master only comes in lower turn sizes. Is the lower turn better for crawling or speed? I thought higher turn was better for crawling but then why would the other be called crawler? lol

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

Traxxas t maxx axles make fantastic drivelines. Light, strong and cheap.

If I remember right the expert is handwound. The lower turns like 13 and 16 are 5 segment armatures. This makes them act like a motor with 3x their turn count. 13 drives like a 39 turn so it has mega torque, the bottom end is crazy smooth and it has lots of power. This is a tradeoff for a slight decrease in drag brake strength.

 

[Natedog]

Specs of the two motors expained from HH site:


TorqueMaster Expert 540 from Holmes! The Expert series features the same quality construction as our Pro motors, but with a machine wound armature for an affordable alternative that won't break the bank.

FEATURES:
Machine-Wound Armature
Standup Brush and 10mm commutator
Gold-plated copper brush hood to resist corrosion and provide lowest resistance
5mm web 3 slot armature- Maximizes torque and efficiency
Can – 1.4mm thick can features minimal venting and two high-power FB9 wet magnets to maximize torque and efficiency
Dual Ball bearings
Adjustable timing
Holmes XX springs for consistent drag brake
Holmes Soft Copper brushes for high torque and long motor life
Broken in for immediate installation and use
OPTIONS:
Timing: 6 degrees of advance is popular and will not adversely affect motor life. When buying pairs of motors with the vehicle indicated, we will speed match and mark motors front and rear at no extra charge.
Wire leads: We will attach a set of Holmes motor leads if you select this option.
Motor speeds taken from averaged lots at 7 volts, zero timing with no load:
35t = 1450 rpm/volt
45t = 1210 rpm/volt
55t = 987 rpm/volt
NOTE: 13t TorqueMaster is NOT for use in crawlers! You want the 13t CrawlMaster!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



CrawlMaster Expert 540 from Holmes! The Expert series features the same quality construction as our Pro motors, but with a machine wound armature for an affordable alternative that won't break the bank.

FEATURES:
Machine-Wound Armature
Standup Brush and 7.5mm Commutator maximizes power and motor longevity
Gold plated copper brush hood to resist corrosion and provide lowest resistance
5mm web 5 slot armature maximizes smooth startup and efficiency
1.4mm thick can features minimal venting and two high-power FB9 wet magnets to maximize torque and efficiency
Dual Ball bearings
Adjustable timing
Holmes XX springs for consistent drag brake
Holmes Soft Copper brushes for high torque and long motor life
Broken in for immediate installation and use

 

[lonewolf8o]

Thank you, I don't want you to think I was that lazy though and didn't bother to look on their site where I saw what you posted lol. I saw the descriptions starting the same on both and breezed over those slight number changes in the description. Im still not sure lol.

I found the holy grail of info for me lol
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/elec...d-aka-what-motor-should-i-get.html#post919711

Broke it down in simple turns so I understood the description info better.

On a separate not, I want to order my driveshafts today and want to confirm I need 5mm ends on both sides, correct? Measured Pinion and everything I read on out drives said 5mm I believe?

WhiteTrash you own a t or e maxx?