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Have tech questions? Will answer.

I run the 540-l in my little monster (Yeti) incredible motor, smooth startup and lots of power, but i wouldn't run it in my TRex, too fast too much power.
Cause of the trans of the TRex you can't gear down enough for it.
The stock titan is comparable to a 1800kv, if i decide go brushless i would look in the 1900 to 2200 maybe 2700kv range. Right now i stay brushed in my TRex and switched to a trailmaster sport 21T (now i would go crawlmaster sport 12t) may that's an option for your Trx.
 
OK I received the CrawlMaster Pro 550 10t motor today for my TRX-6. This motor is EXACTLY what I was looking for & what should be stock (if price wasn’t a factor). But it feels RIGHT now...

Stock Traxxas Titan 550 21t and 11-tooth pinion (stock): 4.9 in 1st, 9.4 in 2nd. Drag brake sucked, startup was sudden
HH CrawlMaster Pro 550 10t and 9-tooth pinion: 4.9 in 1st, 10.1 in 2nd. Drag brake is like super glue! Startup is much smoother/controllable/predictable.

This motor has transformed this TRX-6. The increase in power is also insane! I can sloth it now; even in reverse when only set at 20%. I use the Traxxas link app & crawl mode to control exact reverse amount, drag brake, throttle curve so I don’t drive it like a robot.
 
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Simple one- difference between puller pro standard 4500kv vs puller pro r 4100kv 540 L. Apart from that 400kv difference? Which to go for sumthjn like trx4 or wraith n looking for trailing speed plus good crawling torque.

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Forgot one more option to mentioned is Trailmaster pro BL 4500kv as I currently run 2700kv on element enduro and luv it and puller pro from what I read should hav better torque and smoother starts?

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Above 3800kv really starts to beat hard on controllers due to phase amp needs. If you are racing, the higher KV motors are fantastic. For trailing and crawling it will not be optimal performance. I would recommend a 3500 puller pro for the most torque and power without going too far.

DIG servo problem resolved. While I still can't explain why the Traxxas 2065 worked on Ch1 (steering), but not Ch4 (DIG), the replacement Hitec micro servo arrived yesterday. First thing this morning (ok, technically third, as making coffee was first, and getting yesterday's mail was second), I tested the replacement servo, and it's functioning 100% spot-on.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

Glad to hear it! Sometimes it is the simple answer.

Thanks everyone. My suspicion was the inexpensive motor as well. The speed with the 35T is plenty fast for my needs, so I am fine if it was a little slower if it gains me better crawling performance. I would rather have a super smooth runner at lower speeds and good a drag brake. If it can go walking speed I am fine with that.

Recommendations? Seems like the 5 slot motors are the recommended items these days. Thanks!

for the most drag, stay with 3 slot. 35t in any of my lines will be about the same speed and net you better drag and torque. For 5 slot, a 16t will be closest in speed.

OK I received the CrawlMaster Pro 550 10t motor today for my TRX-6. This motor is EXACTLY what I was looking for & what should be stock (if price wasn’t a factor). But it feels RIGHT now...

Stock Traxxas Titan 550 21t and 11-tooth pinion (stock): 4.9 in 1st, 9.4 in 2nd. Drag brake sucked, startup was sudden
HH CrawlMaster Pro 550 10t and 9-tooth pinion: 4.9 in 1st, 10.1 in 2nd. Drag brake is like super glue! Startup is much smoother/controllable/predictable.

This motor has transformed this TRX-6. The increase in power is also insane! I can sloth it now; even in reverse when only set at 20%. I use the Traxxas link app & crawl mode to control exact reverse amount, drag brake, throttle curve so I don’t drive it like a robot.

Glad to hear you like it, thanks for the feedback! That is one of my favorite motors.

What effect would silver brushes have in this CM Pro motor?

What is the recommended maintenance on the Pro motors? Seems like being sloppy with electric motor cleaner isn’t the answer.

silver brushes increase torque and power a little, but at expense of motor life. Not really recommended unless competing. Check your brush length and get new brushes before they wear past 5mm short. If it gets dirty, motor cleaner works well. I would recommend that if you plan to get into mud and water, have a crawlmaster or trailmaster sport handy. They are much more affordable and actually handle the mud and water better. One unlucky outing with a pro motor in dirty water can end it.
 
Hey, JRH - "The Joy of Crawling With Bob Rocks" is a friggin' hoot... :lmao:
 
Hey John I bought your 1800kv revolver and the sidewinder and wanna say how awesome the motor is. I’m running biggest pinion I could fit, like a 22 or 23 in the single speed trx4 and it still crawls great at low speed and I completely submerged the whole rc for an hour and no issues
 
Talk about a spot on Bob Ross impersonation. Absolutely fantastic.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
 
How do i solder hh motors direct to esc . I hooked one up with bullet connectors and had to reverse the wires due to spin of motor . Are folks just undoing the solder and resolder or is there some dark magic to know which one to hook up first .
 
How do i solder hh motors direct to esc . I hooked one up with bullet connectors and had to reverse the wires due to spin of motor . Are folks just undoing the solder and resolder or is there some dark magic to know which one to hook up first .
Yeah, luck sometimes. Or just unsolder and resolder works too.

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How do i solder hh motors direct to esc . I hooked one up with bullet connectors and had to reverse the wires due to spin of motor . Are folks just undoing the solder and resolder or is there some dark magic to know which one to hook up first .

If you have some alligator clips, you can just clip the leads to the tabs to test rotation. Just an idea.

I just resolder it myself.
 
How do i solder hh motors direct to esc . I hooked one up with bullet connectors and had to reverse the wires due to spin of motor . Are folks just undoing the solder and resolder or is there some dark magic to know which one to hook up first .
Bullet connectors wouldn't be the cause of the "reversed" motor...that could have only been because of one of the things:

1) You didn't connect A to A, B to B, & C to C.
2) The gearing of the vehicle crates a 'reverse' direction, and you need to program the ESC to reverse the motor's polarity.
3) Your transmitter has Ch2 reversed.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
 
What if any are the pros and cons of mounting my steering servo to my tube chassis or to actual axle placement .I cant decide which is better ? On axle WILL BE EASIER TO GET LINKS INSTALLED. ANY THOUGHTS?

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What if any are the pros and cons of mounting my steering servo to my tube chassis or to actual axle placement .I cant decide which is better ? On axle WILL BE EASIER TO GET LINKS INSTALLED. ANY THOUGHTS?

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Arguably, AMS/SOA is a more direct, efficient set up, and much easier to get dialed. CMS is generally more preferred when going for a more "scale" look. If you're chassis is custom, or was not set up for Chassis Mount Servo, be prepared to do a lot of fiddling to get it right with respect to panhard length, panhard mount placement, geometry, etc. They both have their benefits - just depends on what you're after.
 
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