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GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

What size drill for your Bearing mod? any directions or pictures of how the 4 pin gets soldered and the voltage reg. thanks. I'm in the middle of this project. not liking my soldering
 
Picked up a hacked gt3b I'm trying to setup on a bully 2 rtr with stock electronics (outcry esc and rocker dig)

Ive setup the 3rd channel dig correctly with no long press as far as I can tell but still not working.
Also, when adjusting end points for channel 3, while adjusting somewhere around 40-50% I can hear the dig clicking rapidly. Set to 0, I have all 4 tires working at the same speed and set at 100, only the front spin.

Pretty new to this and a little stumped if anyone can help

I have my rx setup like this

CHN 1 servo
CHN 2 esc (red wire removed)
CHN 3 rocker dig
CHN vcc stock bec

Is this correct?
 
Finally got around to doing the hack. second time through the cal and still rolls fwd at neutral throttle tried to trim it but was nearly maxed out any suggestions. going to comp tomorrow but cant till I resolve this thanks
 
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What size drill for your Bearing mod? any directions or pictures of how the 4 pin gets soldered and the voltage reg. thanks. I'm in the middle of this project. not liking my soldering

found it when I did the hack thanks.
 
Not specific to the hack but does anybody know if the FlySky iA4B 2.4G 4CH Receiver With PPM/iBus Output is backwards compatible with the gt3c?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not specific to the hack but does anybody know if the FlySky iA4B 2.4G 4CH Receiver With PPM/iBus Output is backwards compatible with the gt3c?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

a7608606-147-FSi6_Compatibility_Chart.JPG
 
Hey folks.

I finally have started working on my GT3C hi-pro switches again since I've had reports of the stock ones breaking.

I have what I hope to be my final alpha prototype in a couple of days. If they pass my specs I need a few people to test some prototypes me.

I wanting 3-5 people who use their GT3C a lot and can write a good honest review of them after about a month of use. I'll give these people 50% off a set.

I'll also have beta prototypes for sale to the general public if you can't wait for the actual release but don't have the time to thoroughly test them and provide feedback.

Send me an email if you're interested losikid@overkillrc.com

Unless there is major interest these will be a high quality 3d print.

Here is an old rendering
9k7rSV9_OzZgXC4rrDi_xEdM64jW1XFbMJZ6E1wJXirBvVfG9jJYTZuuv3pDDifVxCSLgB8pErgWK6qYBbZJYyMSqFaw9aROWyKkLfUWehRl7WjWOHpaF5ozXmUEiCuZPpEri191qz-1D0QljUhPZOUfvoSbOM2w6jUrpfGTbxTjebxpyks710j_yT3wtKnwdLyig3mfxssIvoagBdGhd0FQw2RdtcSUhHEkpEpwMfl4iHBBEmceHrmH1-g5HsH0OrDjwS4WBMVWvJBGlA-4co3vQkenPtJJ_xySr8Abl4HD3MKciXGuI1LIEdmbVY36XiFRDK8q_21yS0hh0H_uMaN2y887cXJw-dRsdnXN9lCTy1ycNpGLr5GqA3Ymmie18G9YuJzbRG2hkfYkk75gyqExjOVa3OmDcfwxTgPZ-y4E-PSFJK2N0uiJp-UkIHvHx-CHdFBvJwJ92Jxt9woW-iqa4nFg5BtR7COMcbaeYsfsnMKQW91XNdMunQ6aHR5Cw_AFsDhhe2AjHbm7U52xbYxLeOxed9pHEdJpnfOg91N28C2UFOFV2yBmQRxNucEzFlMFCXgzH9oQB9NFb0js0Kd21pEjYmBEAG9vmdMgnbqjbiLa=w379-h358-no


And an old prototype set I've been using (The new switches will be black and higher quality)
SDwtlXqqadPBA8EUoiqOOSE4ObqbQpOENnJtG_gJfUpl-w3qPSkr6IQlWD-bJT10Nf1D2HeL8z-5ri-E6YydlRSS8pnrsLvYc5X32mVmGQpYQZcYEvnPKIjekYGJh0Uhnp-lG3INh0qANwMXUgQ7nQbRBkfU6tPbaNBkQB329iSzYAVt4mMZB1fED3Tx3F9NDCi21tXkNa-V8BxkzkpI9YiSHw7pInihLouDwK2D6fqnjBuxj47vYoF0wxKcVEkTl3gaqO53WV63VNXNi_dYsnWWJXIU7ttfEGpl7Z-GXH_7VmocYdJ8j0ICgJWdbTIFUDr7fa--EQlrC7jH7O76IMIXEHlBnECo3EIjLDRuE3ZBW5XggQ34nCEND0Z1i5xuYD7UjELFEfYEAGtaqrj3J6PxJauvHgp2kYVepRRsjNA_3EElUarC_SiGYQ2Y4rU9oLL6R5O8A5_F5fvQqLO54AWixadIcUFEgSS8olPI3sHFD_GeZ5YDPRq7jCerBNLtWU6uLKWXEeNmTihgHgEpZih0zs84131DmZHbb3Z3OSkKXZbW7qzx-_mdYzcXmLLvmIDjftYHsBq_jcn87way8RAuXJ2r5JnKplRxgsWiAt1LeNBh=w1202-h901-no
 
TraskRiver not sure what the problem would be sounds like your connections would be correct but I am not sure since my dual esc set up is a little different. Have you re set the gt3b? not sure how a outcry esc works but have you tried to calibrate it with the new tx. not sure but maybe the red wire on the dig would need to removed guess it depends how the rest of your system is wired. The dig set up seems pretty straight forward but it may be different when only using one esc. Not sure Im no expert. Losikid or anyone else running a bully 2 with this set up got any ideas. Its a real bummer when you got a new toy but cant use it, ive been there.
 
Might try resetting it. It's a bit out of my league so I gave up on it and went back to the cheap controller it came with. Electrical has never been my strong point. I'll give it another try this evening. See what I can come up with. From what I can tell, it's hooked up correctly, I'm just not getting the settings setup right. But could be wrong. Works just fine with the stock controller.
 
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I have, along with the many videos available that help setup dig.
I've been through the 3rd channel settings in a few configurations/variations of button presses.

It's been a bit since I set it up, I'll set it up again this evening and get back with how I set it up but it's, from memory just how it's written in the template.
 
Well. 1st. You shouldn't be adjusting your end points. Leave them at 100%.

When you adjust your E.points your dig is working so for some reason you didn't correctly assign a rocker switch to the dig.

I suggjest you first reset your model

Code:
[COLOR="Magenta"]Standard menu:
==============[/COLOR]
- swapped behaviour of ENTER and END when editing items, ENTER now select
    next value and END (+ ENTER-long) will end editing items
.
.
.
.
[COLOR="magenta"]- Model number of channels and Model reset
    > choose menu NAME and press ENTER-long
    > menu NAME will blink[/COLOR]
    > [COLOR="magenta"]choose[/COLOR] "C" for number of model channels or[COLOR="magenta"] "r" for model reset
	- reset will show NO/YES[/COLOR]


Then Assign your 3rd channel to the D/R switch like this


Code:
[COLOR="Magenta"]Standard menu:
==============[/COLOR]
- swapped behaviour of ENTER and END when editing items, ENTER now select
    next value and END (+ ENTER-long) will end editing items
.
.
.
.
.
[COLOR="magenta"]- Key mapping specific for each model:
    > choose menu REV and press ENTER-long
    > menu REV will blink
    > choose trims[/COLOR] (id: 1 2 3[COLOR="magenta"] d[/COLOR]) or other keys (CH3: C, Back: b, End: E) or
        if trim is OFF, then also trim keys (id 1 2 3 d with left/right arrow)
   [COLOR="magenta"] > press ENTER and modify first setting
    > press ENTER and modify next setting
    > ....
    -----
    steps of settings of trims ([/COLOR]1 2 3 and [COLOR="magenta"]D/R[/COLOR]):
	-[COLOR="magenta"] sequence:
	  function -> buttons -> step -> reverse -> opposite_reset -> previous_val -> rotate
	- function: selected function listed at the end of manual
	- B buttons:
	    MO - momentary, hold left/right trim key to get end values,
		 when nothing pressed, servo is at center[/COLOR]
	    NL - no long keys, long press is the same as short press
	    AR - autorepeat is on
	    RS - long press of one of trim keys will reset to
		 centre/reset value
	    EN - long press of trim key will set to coresponding end value
	- step: select trim step for one trim key press (1, 2, ... 100, 200),
		not available when buttons MO or fuction is list of items (multi-position)
		is identified by symbol "V"
	[COLOR="magenta"]- RE reverse:
	    0 - no change[/COLOR]
	    1 - swap left/right trim keys
	- OR opposite_reset: not available when buttons MO
	    0 - no change
	    1 - when trim key is pressed and value is at opposite
		side of center/reset, set value to centre/reset,
	[COLOR="magenta"]- PV previous_val: available only when buttons MO or fuction is list of
			   items (multi-position)
	    0 - no change[/COLOR]
	    1 - instead of setting value to centre/reset when key is released,
		it is set to previous value, which was active before key press
	- RO rotate: available only if fuction is list of items (multi-position)
	    0 - no rotate
	    1 - rotate from max item to first item and back
    -----

Then press enter-LONG then back/end afew times to get back to the home screen

More precise instructions based off the above is
Scroll to REV, press and hold enter
Scroll to d, press enter
Scroll to CH3, press enter
Scroll to BMO, Press and hold enter,
Press back/end afew times
 
If there's anyone who's been waiting for me to start offering already modded/hacked radios again. I posted two Grey GT3C's up on my site and will try to get afew made each week.

Flysky GT3C
 
I have a question losikid, i have stock gt3c that gives me the low battery warning within seconds of turning it on and using it. I have tried different new batteries that work fine in the hacked version I bought from you. Is there a setting on the stock radio to change the warning level voltage on the battery or does that only come with the hacked version?
 
I have a question losikid, i have stock gt3c that gives me the low battery warning within seconds of turning it on and using it. I have tried different new batteries that work fine in the hacked version I bought from you. Is there a setting on the stock radio to change the warning level voltage on the battery or does that only come with the hacked version?

No, it's not adjustable.

But you can re-calibrate the stock radio by turning the wheel max counter clockwise then press and hold enter. That might let you calibrate battery voltage.
 
No, it's not adjustable.

But you can re-calibrate the stock radio by turning the wheel max counter clockwise then press and hold enter. That might let you calibrate battery voltage.

nothing happened when I went counter clockwise, but when I went clockwise I got a bunch of numbers on the display and the beeping seems to have abated.... I am charging a known good battery now to see what happens.. thanks for the reply!"thumbsup"

update: everything seems to be working properly again.... not sure why but as long as it works...it doesnt really matter"thumbsup"
 
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I'm having an issue I hope someone can help me with.

Been using 2 hacked GT3B's for a couple years now. SCX10 and a TF2 both using 6 channels with a R6B receivers. I didn't like the big thing on the end of the antennas, so a desoldered them, and have never had a problem with these models. Range is still farther than I can see them, so way overkill for a crawler I'm usually right above.

I'm just finishing up a new rig, using 5 channels on an R6B receiver with one of my GT3B's and got it all programmed up and working great. Went out for a test drive, and I only get about 15' of range, and occasionally less than that. I have an external BEC powering servos, ESC is powering receiver.

First suspect was ESC BEC, so I tried it out using an external receiver pack, no change.

I thought maybe the radio was bad, so I tried it on the model it's been paired with for a 1.5 years and I get tons of range still. R6B receiver.

I concluded that maybe removing that little brass tube on the end of the antenna could have caused this issue. So I resoldered it back on, no change. I then thought that the antenna of the receiver must have broken off the board. Checked continuity with my DMM and everything checked out fine there.

So, I bound an 8 channel receiver to the radio, same exact issue, the brass tube removed from this one too. I then bound a 3 channel receiver I had to the radio, no issues with this one, full range.

I'm not sure what to try next. I know the radio works fine, because it works on an old R6B, and works with a new 3 channel Rx. (I even tore apart the radio to check its antenna connection. Everything is solid).

I can't see how I would have received a defective R6B and R9B from different sellers. I don't think removing the brass tube on the end of the antenna is causing the issue because both my working R6B's have it removed (along with 3 others I've setup for friends), and I've reattached it without a change.

I have also put conformal coating on all the receivers, all in the same batch. Physical examination shows nothing out of the ordinary.

Any thoughts?

I have a new R6B on the way to try that out. Wasn't sure what else I could do.
 
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