General SCX24 Hop up experience/advice

[GuyOverThere]

Hello hello,
I "have" a pair of SCX24s (Ones in the mail still) and I was wondering what sort of aftermarket parts people are using in general and what there experience was with them?

For me personally my Deadbolt has some Mod19 parts from shapeways. I have the ultra low CG battery box that uses longer skinny packs and I like it. It went in smooth I prefer the battery style and its located nice and low. I also have the Low CG RX mount which brings it down a few mm. Then I put in a max servo and some new steering links.

I will say I like the low CG stuff both brought it down a bit and in particular that battery tray is pretty cool. Adding the max servo (or any upgraded servo) Is one of the better mods you can do for yourself especially if you add in a bunch of weight. I have brass knuckles and wheel weights from Hot Racing and the diff covers. trying to turn with the stock servo was basically a losing battle. Same deal with the stock steering link its rather bendy.

Now for my new C10 I'm not sure what route I want to take. I have some Rc4wd wheels and tires on the way. I'm seriously considering getting the inner fenders because I feel like it would give some extra mounting options for electrics. I also ordered up a couple of Barrage motors. I'm contemplating additional wheel weights and actually created another thread just to talk about shock options with you fine people.

Anyone have any suggested upgrades? I'm also interested in hearing what peoples experience is with after market links. Stock ones work fine but they are just so bendy not sure if its an area worth upgrading. On my new build should I roll brass knuckles/wheel weights or will the stamped steals from rc4wd be enough of an addition? I will almost certainly be running the diff covers still non rotating weight right at the axle is a tuff one to give up.

 

[Creepincrawlin]

I bought a deadbolt about two weeks ago and another one last week in red. I’m hooked on these micro trucks. I have an Axial Temper that I really like as well but for now I’m obsessed with these little guys.

I have brass wheel weights, front diff cover and a new servo that will be here today though I don’t have long enough bolts for it yet, I haven’t been able to find them.

I want new shocks but the hot-racing ones are out of stock as far as I know and the others I saw were about $70 and I’m not going to spend that kind of money on them.

Mind getting me a link for that battery tray? So will the stock battery still work in there? Or what battery did you upgrade to?

 

[GuyOverThere]

@creepincrawlin
The stock battery does not work though you have to use a totally different style of pack. Upside in my opinion is the lower CG and the batteries are sold with mini XT connectors so if your cool soldering that on to your stock ESC much nicer plug. Battery Tray There is a link to some batteries they recommend on amazon in the description for the parts I got the same battery brand but I actually got 350mAh instead of 300 but I couldn't tell you where I actually bought them don't recall anymore. There are tons of other venders on that website as well who have stuff for the SCX24.

 

[Creepincrawlin]

@creepincrawlin
The stock battery does not work though you have to use a totally different style of pack. Upside in my opinion is the lower CG and the batteries are sold with mini XT connectors so if your cool soldering that on to your stock ESC much nicer plug. Battery Tray There is a link to some batteries they recommend on amazon in the description for the parts I got the same battery brand but I actually got 350mAh instead of 300 but I couldn't tell you where I actually bought them don't recall anymore. There are tons of other venders on that website as well who have stuff for the SCX24.

I’m heading there tonight to take a look, thanks so much!

 

[GuyOverThere]

I’m heading there tonight to take a look, thanks so much!

No problem, I just ordered up some rod ends so I can make some metal links. I look forward to seeing if they make a difference.

 

[Creepincrawlin]

No problem, I just ordered up some rod ends so I can make some metal links. I look forward to seeing if they make a difference.

Oh nice. How hard is that because I’ve got a new servo sitting here but I don’t have any aftermarket links. Are there any decent aftermarket links that bolt on or is that why you are making your own?

 

[GuyOverThere]

First time making my own links but, based on the instructions I read seem seems simple enough. Also pretty cheap. I ordered the threaded rod and tubing from granger for like $7. I also ordered two different diameters of tubing so that could be even cheaper if you just did one or the other. Enough rod ends for two trucks and a couple of spares on top of that was $10 so its cheaper to make your own I don't know how I would do the upper Y link in the front that one will likely just stay plastic. Hot racing link sets are like $30 they include the Y link though. I havent really been able to find any info on how peeps feel about them onces they are installed so I figured I could make my own for both my trucks on the at half the price. (If you do get them make sure you get the set for your vehicle)

Upgrading the servo makes a big difference. I have an emax in mine people seem to have mixed reviews on them but I havent had a problem so far. You don't need links to replace your servo though well I would recommend steering link upgrade. I have some 3d printed ones of shapeways on my deadbolt and I ordered hot racing ones for my C10 so I could see which I prefer. I would also add my biggest gripe with hot racing is the relentless badging of HR on everything even individual links its nuts. When I get my diff covers im going to see about polishing it off.

 

[Creepincrawlin]

First time making my own links but, based on the instructions I read seem seems simple enough. Also pretty cheap. I ordered the threaded rod and tubing from granger for like $7. I also ordered two different diameters of tubing so that could be even cheaper if you just did one or the other. Enough rod ends for two trucks and a couple of spares on top of that was $10 so its cheaper to make your own I don't know how I would do the upper Y link in the front that one will likely just stay plastic. Hot racing link sets are like $30 they include the Y link though. I havent really been able to find any info on how peeps feel about them onces they are installed so I figured I could make my own for both my trucks on the at half the price. (If you do get them make sure you get the set for your vehicle)

Upgrading the servo makes a big difference. I have an emax in mine people seem to have mixed reviews on them but I havent had a problem so far. You don't need links to replace your servo though well I would recommend steering link upgrade. I have some 3d printed ones of shapeways on my deadbolt and I ordered hot racing ones for my C10 so I could see which I prefer. I would also add my biggest gripe with hot racing is the relentless badging of HR on everything even individual links its nuts. When I get my diff covers im going to see about polishing it off.

I have the HR brass diff on mine and I’m sure you could get it off there but the etching is deep enough to catch a fingernail so maybe just put a piece of sandpaper on a piece of glass or granite and rub it off there and then polish it up.

I saw those upgraded plastic ones on shapeways. I assume they just take some of the slop out?

I might wait for you to make your links and see what you think about it and then make my own, lol.

 

[GuyOverThere]

I have them on my Deadbolt but they are backordered for my C10. I just in my RC4WD beadlocks! Now the question is do I vent the wheel or the tire? I'm leaning wheel because there isn't enough wheel speed to drain water anyways also I don't plan on running in water. I'm not married to the idea though either way still works. Just going to have to get them to work because I do not own a drill

 

[Dogahn]

What I've learned.
*Heavy grease on the shocks, is nice but not necessary.
*Patagonia's are awesome, but rub on the c10.
*rc4wd wheelsets are the functional limit of stock servo.
*cheap $10 wheel weights(6g/ea) look like drum brakes.
*improved steering link is nice but not necessary.
*you can upgrade these to make their play areas obsolete.

I mean, say you got nice pile of rocks and stuff that challenges your minimal mod scx24. You do a few upgrades and, now it just climbs over everything. Your line choices, control input, obstacle planning is all pointless. You can upgrade the scx24 to the point where you the driver are the limiting factor.

 

[Gramps]

Hot Racing makes a servo mount for the Emax servo, there is also a 3D printed one on Shapeways
The steering linkage can be tightened up using some small O-rings
Power Hobby has shocks that look like the HR ones & a few $ cheaper
Haven't tried this but I would think that you could flow solder into the HR logo then paint the diff covers. I use gun blacking on brass as I don't like the looks of it. Also heard of antiquing it with heat but haven't tried it.

@Guyoverthere where did you find the small rod ends for the SCX24 links? Are you going to make some high clearance ones?

 

[Creepincrawlin]

What I've learned.

I mean, say you got nice pile of rocks and stuff that challenges your minimal mod scx24. You do a few upgrades and, now it just climbs over everything. Your line choices, control input, obstacle planning is all pointless. You can upgrade the scx24 to the point where you the driver are the limiting factor.

That’s a good point but couldn’t you just upgrade the course as you upgrade the truck? My little course is still a challenge but all I’ve added is some weight so far.

 

[Dogahn]

That’s a good point but couldn’t you just upgrade the course as you upgrade the truck? My little course is still a challenge but all I’ve added is some weight so far.

I think the thing I was feeling is that when your scx24 dominates your course and you're building bigger.. So, I guess my warning is that you can upgrade the scx24 to be a poor performing scx10.

 

[GuyOverThere]

@Gramps I got them here my good sir! I ordered the threaded rod and tubing they recommended as well. In both sizes so I can make them and see how I like the look.

@Dogahn What wheel weights are you referring to?


C10 showed up today. Got my RC4wd Wheelset on it with Rok Lox tires (as those are what were in stock) Two things I would like to share. I find that these tiny tires stock or RC4wd doesn't matter don't really vent. I was experimenting with a stock tire and I couldn't really get a hole in it that didn't just seal itself back up. As such I vented the wheels and it works great. Another note for anyone who might care. Stock deadbolt wheels with HR brass inserts where in at 21G where as the RC4WD wheel/tire comes in at 19G no weights added. The HR wheel weights also wont work without modification on the RC4WD Wheels.

 

[Dogahn]

@Dogahn What wheel weights are you referring to?

Google, eBay, or Amazon scx24 brass hex adapters. They replace the plastic bits, sit inside the rim, and only add a mm or two. Rc4wd has an aluminum hub that could probably be shaved down, but the two combined didn't widen the axles so much as to look wrong. However, stock servo struggles turning these (not pictured, the rc4wd wheelset & weights) on carpet, and it loses a lot of speed when turning.

 

[Gramps]

I used the Full Send RC wheel weights on my Deadbolt

 

[GuyOverThere]

Ok fellow mini fans! Just used an HR servo mount for emax servo and HR stearing links. Have to say I like them both. The servo mount is tiny so unlike my shapeways mount on no trimming need on the mount for clearance. As for the steering links they are super plush and have no slop. My shapeways are super nice as well they use the stock balls so they are little less smooth but honestly once you get them nice and dirty its all the same

 

[Creepincrawlin]

Ok fellow mini fans! Just used an HR servo mount for emax servo and HR stearing links. Have to say I like them both. The servo mount is tiny so unlike my shapeways mount on no trimming need on the mount for clearance. As for the steering links they are super plush and have no slop. My shapeways are super nice as well they use the stock balls so they are little less smooth but honestly once you get them nice and dirty its all the same

Nice dude! I just bolted up my MG90 something or other servo yesterday. I still have the stock links but still what a difference!

 

[GuyOverThere]

Weirdly Amain just posted a youtube video talking about upgrading the SCX24s yesterday. Just not my brass knuckles ordered up now all I need to do is wait for the diff covers to get back in stock and I'm just about done. Though I am still hotly debating both shocks and inner wheel wells+sliders. I also ordered some brass blackener off amazon so I can black out the brass to keep my scale look for the C10.

 

[shiggy]

Nice dude! I just bolted up my MG90 something or other servo yesterday. I still have the stock links but still what a difference!

Use 4mm OD/2mm ID O-rings on the steering link ball joints and the slop is gone.