Generis
Rock Crawler
Here's the suspension fixes for the Twin Hammer by Vaterra. Available at gcmracing.ca
First off, the Front Tower Plate.
This simple Front Tower Plate from GCM lets you use upright front shocks, at full travel, and brings a whole ton of new performance advantages to the Twin Hammer.
With the new front plate, replacing the cantilever shocks and top brace, you will have ample room up front to get your battery and even some electronics up and forward, all of which helps a ton with the balance and performance of this rig.
Because the GCM plate is the only mod on the market that supports the front bumper on the TH, the front hood tube work doesn't have any structural function any more, and this allows for a simple hood hinge using all stock parts.. In fact, the GCM Front Tower Plate has shock hoops that are designed to capture the hood tube work as a latch! There's no need for any hardware at all to open or close the hood with this mod!
The Plate also includes a few new holes up front, just in front of the tower hoops, and you can mount winches, light buckets, D ring loops, or your own custom tubing! Just about anything can work on these extra mount holes, making sure you get the custom rig you are looking for, with function and scale looks at the same time.
Another sweet advantage of this setup is the designed geometry. Using popular SCX-10 shocks, dropped right on the Twin Hammer, you get the full suspension swing and it's ready to ride. We highly recommend the Axial versions, as they offer the proper shock travel, Measured eye to eye at 85mm open and 60mm compressed. This measurement offers the exact full suspension travel of the Twin Hammer. If your favorite shocks are a bit too long, just add an internal spacer to limit your down or up travel for the perfect setup.
Here's how we did our shocks: We used stock Axial Dingo shocks, and put the VTH lower ball eye into the Axial lower shock rod end. Done. Then put a traxxas (or other) ball end INside the shock to bring it from 90mm down to 85mm length, and add the spring, and install.
It's the exact match for the travel on the Hammer up front. Perfect.
Second, the Rear Twin Truss for the VTH
The best fix for the Twin Hammer twist. GCM's rear axle Truss for the VTH.
With the new truss and a 5 minute install, you can get your torque twist down to a bare minimum on any Twin Hammer rig. This new unit replaces the 2 plastic top link mounts and adds scale appearance as well.
The solid machined billet aluminum part comes with a new top bolt to attach your top links. We recommend you use the lower mount holes at the FWD side of the top links, and then add the GCM Twin Truss for the top shelf performance you'd be expecting.
By correcting the slack suspension geometry on the back of the Twin Hammer, we've got the truck laying flat under power.. by just translating the power into performance, instead of twist! That's simple! and the truss installs with the stock hardware, so there's nothing to add. Just open the kit, and your allen wrench, and get back on the trails.
First off, the Front Tower Plate.
This simple Front Tower Plate from GCM lets you use upright front shocks, at full travel, and brings a whole ton of new performance advantages to the Twin Hammer.
With the new front plate, replacing the cantilever shocks and top brace, you will have ample room up front to get your battery and even some electronics up and forward, all of which helps a ton with the balance and performance of this rig.
Because the GCM plate is the only mod on the market that supports the front bumper on the TH, the front hood tube work doesn't have any structural function any more, and this allows for a simple hood hinge using all stock parts.. In fact, the GCM Front Tower Plate has shock hoops that are designed to capture the hood tube work as a latch! There's no need for any hardware at all to open or close the hood with this mod!
The Plate also includes a few new holes up front, just in front of the tower hoops, and you can mount winches, light buckets, D ring loops, or your own custom tubing! Just about anything can work on these extra mount holes, making sure you get the custom rig you are looking for, with function and scale looks at the same time.
Another sweet advantage of this setup is the designed geometry. Using popular SCX-10 shocks, dropped right on the Twin Hammer, you get the full suspension swing and it's ready to ride. We highly recommend the Axial versions, as they offer the proper shock travel, Measured eye to eye at 85mm open and 60mm compressed. This measurement offers the exact full suspension travel of the Twin Hammer. If your favorite shocks are a bit too long, just add an internal spacer to limit your down or up travel for the perfect setup.
Here's how we did our shocks: We used stock Axial Dingo shocks, and put the VTH lower ball eye into the Axial lower shock rod end. Done. Then put a traxxas (or other) ball end INside the shock to bring it from 90mm down to 85mm length, and add the spring, and install.
It's the exact match for the travel on the Hammer up front. Perfect.
Second, the Rear Twin Truss for the VTH
The best fix for the Twin Hammer twist. GCM's rear axle Truss for the VTH.
With the new truss and a 5 minute install, you can get your torque twist down to a bare minimum on any Twin Hammer rig. This new unit replaces the 2 plastic top link mounts and adds scale appearance as well.
The solid machined billet aluminum part comes with a new top bolt to attach your top links. We recommend you use the lower mount holes at the FWD side of the top links, and then add the GCM Twin Truss for the top shelf performance you'd be expecting.
By correcting the slack suspension geometry on the back of the Twin Hammer, we've got the truck laying flat under power.. by just translating the power into performance, instead of twist! That's simple! and the truss installs with the stock hardware, so there's nothing to add. Just open the kit, and your allen wrench, and get back on the trails.
