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G-Speed V3 build

We had an awesome day Saturday, set up ~20 or so gates in a big area and ran through it for a few hours, then goofed around a bit in a few other spots.

I caught a tiny bit of footage, we got too sucked into driving and no one really filmed much. The rocks here are very smooth, and very slick for the most part.

I've got a set of landmines on the way, and a new set of CI foams for them. I'm interested to see how they do on our rocks in this area.

Just waiting on gears to get here in the next day or so, then I'll build the capra axles and get to the swap.
 
Started working on the capra axle conversion this evening. I mis-ordered the links and got them made for no SuperShafty riser on the rear. Thankfully a quick email to TGH confirmed my suspicions that I simply needed to use long rod ends on the axle side to compensate the size difference. I have some on order that should be here in a day or so.

The gears come in tomorrow, so I'll build the internals then. For now, I wanted to see where links and shocks put the rear axle if I ran them in the same locations as with the AR44's.

I had to ditch my Salinas drop bed, as it's in the way now. I'm going to order their flat bed for this chassis that has a hole for high clearance links. For the time being, I'll simply run no bed.

In the two pictures below you can see the pinion angle. I think it's still a bit high, but wanted to see what others thought. I'll look at Topher's thread for his sherpa to get an idea from that comparison as well.

I also ordered the TGH HO wheels, and a Holmes Hobby SHV500 V3 servo. I really like the 7955TG, but I want a bit more power, and am happy to remove the BEC.

Cheers,
Gable
 

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I moved the rear upper links to the top position on the riser. This puts the pinion angle in a better position imo. Once the long rod ends come in, I'll install them and re-position to get it to a good starting point.

I'll post some pics once the longer ends arrive.
 
While I'm waiting for axle parts to arrive, I thought I would try and shim the forward motor mount a bit, to remove the little bit of slop it has. Topher documented the process very well in his Sherpa thread. I ended up using 0.4mm on the top of the top bearing. There isn't much slop to begin with, but this removed all of it for me.
 
For your pinion angle, it looks like you could shorten your uppers a tad by threading the rod ends more. And/or move the upper link to the top most forward hole on the chassis.

Coming together great! Glad the shimming post for the FMM helped out some "thumbsup"
 
For your pinion angle, it looks like you could shorten your uppers a tad by threading the rod ends more. And/or move the upper link to the top most forward hole on the chassis.

That's what I'm thinking. I had them threaded out longer since I was waiting for the longer rod ends anyway.

This brings up a question I've wondered about. Is there an advantage to running the upper link mounts further forward towards the center of the vehicle?

The gears and stub shaft came in today, so I was able to assemble both axles. I'll mess with links, shocks, etc. tomorrow.

I had to order some shims and hex's, hopefully they get here in a day or so, I'm ready to try these out!

Cheers,
Gable

Cheers,
Gable
 
So I'm having some issues with the portals.

1 - The rear cover doesn't close all the way at the top only. No, I don't have the extra, un-needed bearing in place.

2 - The stub shaft has slop, radially once installed, even when shimmed out firmly against the cover and hex.

Number 2 is more worrying to me.

A few pics:
 

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Just realized I need to snap a few pics of the internals....

Any insight would be awesome. I'm leaving town super early in the morning, and want to get my rig ready to rock.

Will post internals shortly.

Thanks!
 
Internals:

I have to be assembling these incorrectly or something...
 

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The portal cover fitment issue, is only on the rears.

The slop issue in the output (stub) shafts, is front and rear.
 
It’s the one on top that causes problems, people add an extra up there, behind the gear. Your top bearings are good. But there should be another bearing on bottom, then the stub, then the pin, then the gear.
 
It’s the one on top that causes problems, people add an extra up there, behind the gear. Your top bearings are good. But there should be another bearing on bottom, then the stub, then the pin, then the gear.

You totally called it. That solved the cover fitment issues.

Thank you sir!
 
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