Electronics for RC4WD's Gelande II D90 - Help will be appreciated

[yoavba]

Hello,


(Sorry for my English – it is not my first language)

After a long 30-years break from playing with RC cars, I’ve decided to try that again (nostalgia?). RC4WD's Gelande II D90 is so far the leading candidate, mostly due to its unique scale appearance.

I'm a little lost here and I find it difficult to make the right choices with electronics. The variety is overwhelming and the differences between the various products are in many cases unclear. For instance, what’s the difference between the cheap AE-5 ESC and the expensive Holmes Hobbies ESCs, both very popular among crawlers’ owners?
After weeks of online digging, I realized that it is going to be impossible to obtain a comprehensive and thorough understanding for all aspects of a crawler’s electronics, so I decided to ask for help in picking the right products.

I want my D90 to do mostly trailing and occasionally some crawling. It doesn’t have to be excellent in crawling if this is what it takes to give it some speed and stay within a reasonable budget. I guess that I should stick to the 27-35 turns range (right?). This also means that I don’t necessarily need the top-notch products that are currently available on the market.

I would greatly appreciate your help in picking the right combination of motor, ESC, BEC if required and battery. Should I consider one of Tekin’s combos? Tekin’s Wound 30T with one of Tekin’s ESCs? Axial AE-2/AE-5 with an Axial motor? Holme's Hobbies's products?

My budget for motor+ESC is 140$.

(To clarify: I read the Gelande II guide (and recommendations) at:
Comprehensive Guide to the Gelande 2
, but I want to consider products other than RC4WD’s as well)


Thank you in advance guys.

 

[crawlhog]

This is the electronics I run in mine, I didnt want to drop alot of cash on the electronics (wife issues ) so I went a little cheaper.

35t motor HH about $35 bucks
Castle BEC $20 bucks
Dynamite brushed ESC about $30ish 2s-3s compatible, LVC , forward & reverse, crawler mode option. 60amp, water proof. a tad bigger than a Tekin FXR.

I have the ESC in 2 other trucks, so far so good. the oldest is about 2yrs old and has been used a lot. never any issues.

 

[yoavba]

Thanks crawhog.

I totally hear you about the wife issues. I prefer not to let here anywhere near the Excel spreadsheet.
Seriously though, I guess the hardest thing for me is to understand what might be the implications of going cheap.

1) How would my experience differ if I use a realtively cheap setup of the kind you're using (or the AE-5 + cheap Axial motor that I had in mind) versus using a ~150$ HH or Tekin motor/esc combos? Is it a matter of reliability or about having more settings options with the more expensive ones? Would any of these be significant for my modest expectations of the rig?
2) Would you recommend a particular Lipo battery? Should I look for a specific connector in order for my battery to be compatible with the ESC?
3) What is the exact model for the Dynamite ESC? I see several brushed ones.

Thanks again.

 

[crawlhog]

the electronics I use have been very reliable and im not easy on my trucks. Going a little cheaper doesn't always mean problems , this hobby is expensive enough.

I checked RPP and the ESC is part number DYNS2210 and it does come with different setting options

I get all my lipos from a place called Value Hobby in addison IL. there cheap and reliable , most of mine are about 3-5yrs old. I would go 3s. Many to choose from , a lot of different sizes and Mah.

you can also get a cheap 35t motor from RC4WD for 10 bucks, the one I have has held up for a couple years so far.

Any connector will work with the ESC, I believe it comes with bullet connectors, but you can always solder on the connector of your choice.

 

[OSRC]

Mine has a 35t RC4WD motor (9.99) a HK Brushed ESC (10.45, has lipo cut off and an excellent drag brake) and a Tactic Servo that I picked up on ebay from a chop shop for $10.

I didn't see the point of spending more on the electronics given the very scale nature of the rig, and there is no point putting a ton of power through the drivetrain.

 

[Habanero]

I'm using the axial 55t with the AE-2 and castle BEC - works great. I still use NIMHs in most of my cars.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Mine has a 35t RC4WD motor (9.99) a HK Brushed ESC (10.45, has lipo cut off and an excellent drag brake) and a Tactic Servo that I picked up on ebay from a chop shop for $10.

I didn't see the point of spending more on the electronics given the very scale nature of the rig, and there is no point putting a ton of power through the drivetrain.

I don't have a D90, but I just wanted to add that the HobbyKing brushed ESC used to be my go-to as well until I found the HobbyWing (HK and HW are not the same company) WP1060. It is also a brushed-only ESC, but it is waterproof out of the box and it has the ability to run 3S whereas the HK ESC doesn't have either of these features. The HobbyWing is more expensive, but I personally think it's worth it since I like that it comes waterproofed so I don't have to do that and because I sometimes run 3S.

Buy the HobbyWing WP1060 before the Axial AE-5! The HobbyWing is cheaper and it offers more settings or modes.

HOBBYWING North America — QUICRUN 16 Brushed ESC

HobbyWing is also releasing a new brushed ESC which I preordered today. It has more features like a 9 position adjustable drag brake and a better internal BEC.
HOBBYWING North America — QUICRUN WP 1080 Brushed ESC for Rock Crawler

 

[yoavba]

Thanks again, crawlhog.
Now I'm pretty much convinced that there's no need to go crazy with electronics.
Best.

Thank you OSRC.
What is the significance of having LIPO cut off?

Thank you Habanero.

1. How do you find the AE-2 ESC? I see it is more expensive than the AE-5. is it better and if so, in what sense?
2. Should I also favor NIMHs over LIPOs? Why?

Thank you, JatoTheRipper.
The WP 1060 ESC seems like an interesting option. Have you ever experienced overheating issues with it?

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Thank you, JatoTheRipper.
The WP 1060 ESC seems like an interesting option. Have you ever experienced overheating issues with it?

No, I have not experienced any issues at all with them. I have 2 or 3 in my crawlers and my dad also has them in 1 or 2 of his. We've never had a single issue. We both use 35T-55T brushed motors on 2S or 3S.

Oh and a LiPo cutoff is extremely important. The HobbyWing WP1060 has one built in. If you do not have one you can overdischarge your LiPos and that is one of the leading causes of LiPo puffing which signals the end of their life.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Thank you, JatoTheRipper.

You're welcome! "thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

Hello,


(Sorry for my English – it is not my first language)

After a long 30-years break from playing with RC cars, I’ve decided to try that again (nostalgia?). RC4WD's Gelande II D90 is so far the leading candidate, mostly due to its unique scale appearance.

I'm a little lost here and I find it difficult to make the right choices with electronics. The variety is overwhelming and the differences between the various products are in many cases unclear. For instance, what’s the difference between the cheap AE-5 ESC and the expensive Holmes Hobbies ESCs, both very popular among crawlers’ owners?
After weeks of online digging, I realized that it is going to be impossible to obtain a comprehensive and thorough understanding for all aspects of a crawler’s electronics, so I decided to ask for help in picking the right products.

I want my D90 to do mostly trailing and occasionally some crawling. It doesn’t have to be excellent in crawling if this is what it takes to give it some speed and stay within a reasonable budget. I guess that I should stick to the 27-35 turns range (right?). This also means that I don’t necessarily need the top-notch products that are currently available on the market.

My budget for motor+ESC is 140$.

(To clarify: I read the Gelande II guide (and recommendations) at:
Comprehensive Guide to the Gelande 2
, but I want to consider products other than RC4WD’s as well)

Welcome to RCC and back to RC, your English is doing well. "thumbsup"

This is the electronics I run in mine, I didnt want to drop alot of cash on the electronics...

35t motor HH about $35 bucks
Castle BEC $20 bucks
Dynamite brushed ESC about $30ish 2s-3s compatible, LVC , forward & reverse, crawler mode option. 60amp, water proof. a tad bigger than a Tekin FXR.

I have the ESC in 2 other trucks, so far so good. the oldest is about 2yrs old and has been used a lot. never any issues.

"thumbsup"

the electronics I use have been very reliable and im not easy on my trucks. Going a little cheaper doesn't always mean problems , this hobby is expensive enough.

I checked RPP and the ESC is part number DYNS2210 and it does come with different setting options

I get all my lipos from a place called Value Hobby in addison IL. there cheap and reliable , most of mine are about 3-5yrs old. I would go 3s.

you can also get a cheap 35t motor from RC4WD for 10 bucks, the one I have has held up for a couple years so far.

Any connector will work with the ESC, I believe it comes with bullet connectors, but you can always solder on the connector of your choice.

"thumbsup"

Mine has a 35t RC4WD motor (9.99) a HK Brushed ESC (10.45, has lipo cut off and an excellent drag brake) and a Tactic Servo that I picked up on ebay from a chop shop for $10.

I didn't see the point of spending more on the electronics given the very scale nature of the rig, and there is no point putting a ton of power through the drivetrain.

"thumbsup"

...wanted to add that the HobbyKing brushed ESC used to be my go-to as well until I found the HobbyWing (HK and HW are not the same company) WP1060. It is also a brushed-only ESC, but it is waterproof out of the box and it has the ability to run 3S whereas the HK ESC doesn't have either of these features. The HobbyWing is more expensive, but I personally think it's worth it since I like that it comes waterproofed so I don't have to do that and because I sometimes run 3S.

Buy the HobbyWing WP1060 before the Axial AE-5! The HobbyWing is cheaper and it offers more settings or modes.

HOBBYWING North America — QUICRUN 16 Brushed ESC

HobbyWing is also releasing a new brushed ESC which I preordered today. It has more features like a 9 position adjustable drag brake and a better internal BEC.
HOBBYWING North America — QUICRUN WP 1080 Brushed ESC for Rock Crawler

"thumbsup"

No, I have not experienced any issues at all with them. I have 2 or 3 in my crawlers and my dad also has them in 1 or 2 of his. We've never had a single issue. We both use 35T-55T brushed motors on 2S or 3S.

Oh and a LiPo cutoff is extremely important. The HobbyWing WP1060 has one built in. If you do not have one you can overdischarge your LiPos and that is one of the leading causes of LiPo puffing which signals the end of their life.

X2, same ESC in couple of my Ascenders and zero problems, cheap, reliable, relatively small and waterproof.

Lots of good advice here! Go lipos, SMC, and Turnigy are good brands too, buy little higher C rating usually lasts longer/more durable than lower 20C rating ime. Steering servo I prefer to buy higher power and quality, they last longer and can be used in more applications, plus interchangeable with my other RC.

Jato, that new HW ESC looks interesting. "thumbsup"

Edit: I need to try one of these, adjustable Pulse Width Modulation, switch the frequency up and eliminate all noise. Better BEC, more amps...nice.

 

[yoavba]

Welcome to RCC and back to RC, your English is doing well. "thumbsup"


X2, same ESC in couple of my Ascenders and zero problems, cheap, reliable, relatively small and waterproof.

Lots of good advice here! Go lipos, SMC, and Turnigy are good brands too, buy little higher C rating usually lasts longer/more durable than lower 20C rating ime. Steering servo I prefer to buy higher power and quality, they last longer and can be used in more applications, plus interchangeable with my other RC.

Jato, that new HW ESC looks interesting. "thumbsup"

Edit: I need to try one of these, adjustable Pulse Width Modulation, switch the frequency up and eliminate all noise. Better BEC, more amps...nice.

Thanks for the welcoming and the words of advice.

A few follow up questions, if I may:

1. Which ESC were you referring to in 'X2, same ESC in couple of my Ascenders'?
2. I understand that LIPOs are superior over NIMHs due to there better performance (right?) but isn't there a safety concern when using them?
3. Can you recommend a specific 2s LIPO battery and a compatible charger?
4. Speaking of servos, I am about to order a Savox 1210SG servo. What do you think?

 

[scalemadness]

1210sg should do you just fine i have been running mine in a tf2 for 3yrs now fed by my bec set at 6.5v and its still going strong

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Thanks for the welcoming and the words of advice.

A few follow up questions, if I may:

1. Which ESC were you referring to in 'X2, same ESC in couple of my Ascenders'?

I'm pretty sure he meant the HobbyWing WP1060.

2. I understand that LIPOs are superior over NIMHs due to there better performance (right?) but isn't there a safety concern when using them?

NiMH batteries are really no more dangerous than LiPos. You do have to watch both, especially when charging. LiPos are worth the extra cost though. And if you buy from SMC or HobbyKing you can find great, inexpensive batteries.

LiPo batteries are lighter, more efficient, run with more power for longer and run longer, period. NiMH batteries can have as much power if not more than LiPo in the beginning but the power quickly tapers off. There's a reason most electronics are powered by LiPo batteries these days. They are the best, inexpensive technology available.

3. Can you recommend a specific 2s LIPO battery and a compatible charger?

I can't help you with the battery because D90's have an odd size battery compartment from what I remember. I don't own a D90 so you'll have to get that info from another D90 owner. I'm sure if you search this site it will have been covered numerous times.

As far as chargers, I have the Thunder AC6, but if I was buying a charger now I'd go wtih this Kinexsis KX80. It's a good price, has good specs and it comes from Horizon so it will be a good product backed by the best customer service in the business.

4. Speaking of servos, I am about to order a Savox 1210SG servo. What do you think?

Savox makes good stuff. I don't have any experience with that particular servo though.

 

[yoavba]

I'm pretty sure he meant the HobbyWing WP1060.

NiMH batteries are really no more dangerous than LiPos. You do have to watch both, especially when charging. LiPos are worth the extra cost though. And if you buy from SMC or HobbyKing you can find great, inexpensive batteries.

LiPo batteries are lighter, more efficient, run with more power for longer and run longer, period. NiMH batteries can have as much power if not more than LiPo in the beginning but the power quickly tapers off. There's a reason most electronics are powered by LiPo batteries these days. They are the best, inexpensive technology available.


I can't help you with the battery because D90's have an odd size battery compartment from what I remember. I don't own a D90 so you'll have to get that info from another D90 owner. I'm sure if you search this site it will have been covered numerous times.

As far as chargers, I have the Thunder AC6, but if I was buying a charger now I'd go wtih this Kinexsis KX80. It's a good price, has good specs and it comes from Horizon so it will be a good product backed by the best customer service in the business.


Savox makes good stuff. I don't have any experience with that particular servo though.

Thanks again.

As for batteries - my concern is about LIPOs, not NIMH being unsafe when not handled with care. I guess I should carefully consider the trade-off between performance and safety, given that I will most likely not be the only user at home.

 

[durok]

I'm sure that was just a typo in Jato's response - LiPo batteries do require a slight bit of extra attention. Here is a link to SMC, a mfg of them - has additional info on the care of them and a variety to choose from:

SMC Racing

there are measurements given for each battery for fitment in your chosen rig.

 

[crawlhog]

I say go lipo, I had the same concerns as you but with proper care and caution you will be much happier with them, I always charge them in a lipo safe bag. also you can get a ranges of sizes and MAH and there fairly cheap and reliable.

As for I a charger i've had my Thunder ac6 for over 5 years without an issue.
Just another option for you


good luck"thumbsup"

 

[Natedog]

Thanks for the welcoming and the words of advice.

A few follow up questions, if I may:

1. Which ESC were you referring to in 'X2, same ESC in couple of my Ascenders'?
2. I understand that LIPOs are superior over NIMHs due to there better performance (right?) but isn't there a safety concern when using them?
3. Can you recommend a specific 2s LIPO battery and a compatible charger?
4. Speaking of servos, I am about to order a Savox 1210SG servo. What do you think?

You're welcome.

I meant the Dynamite version of the HobbyWing 1060 ESC, sorry for confusion, same esc different label.

Yes, lipos require more caution but worth it to me. I would not let children use them un-monitored.

SMC, Turnigy or Value Hardware, always buy higher C as they seem to have longer useful lifespan ime, 40C is usually good for crawler unless running brushless, then you want higher if possible.

I like Hitec HS-7950TG, but that is overkill for D90. That Savox you named should be good for D90/scalers.

I've used a couple chargers including Skycharger mentioned and recently bought Hitec X2 C Plus, great high output dual battery charger for $99. Buy once and do it right, don't need the Pro with built in soldering iron, one more thing to go wrong and I have a good soldring iron, Hako

X2 AC Plus 2 Port AC/DC Multi-Charger | HITEC RCD USA

Hakko FX-888D (I have non-digital version for several years and works awesome.) Looks like they are all digital now.
https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx888d.html

 

[sethstiles]

So, the Gelande 1/18th can accept a better motor than the stock one? Axial, RC4WD, maybe Losi ones. I hear the stock motor is very underpowered.

 

[new2rocks]

So, the Gelande 1/18th can accept a better motor than the stock one? Axial, RC4WD, maybe Losi ones. I hear the stock motor is very underpowered.

This is an old post about the 1/10th G2, not the 1/18th. Try having a look in the micro scale rigs section. There are quite a few threads on the 1/18th G2 D90 and on the motor question in particular. If you don't see an answer to your question, then try starting a new thread in the Newbie section. "thumbsup"