Dingo Links - 11.4" (290mm)

[JatoTheRipper]

I am looking for Dingo-length links for my SCX10. I want to take it from the current 12.3" down to 11.4" inches. The only kit I can find is the Axial AX30549 set which, IMO, is extremely overpriced especially with plastic balls.

I absolutely hate building links on my own and I understand that is an option, but I am looking for a plug and play kit. I can find lots of kits for the 12.3" wheelbase, but none for the 11.4" wheelbase. What options are left for the Dingo?

Thanks.

 

[kingfuzz]

So it seems like custom making some might be the easiest way (Even though you clearly stated you dont want to.) Im sure you could find people that would be willing to make you some for cheaper than the Axial kit cost too for an option. I would make them if you paid me haha

As for pricing, Ebay seems to have the best price for the kit if all else fails.

New Axial Aluminum Wheelbase Links Set 11 4" 290mm SCX10 AX30549 | eBay

Good luck

 

[Ditchrat]

I am looking for Dingo-length links for my SCX10. I want to take it from the current 12.3" down to 11.4" inches. The only kit I can find is the Axial AX30549 set which, IMO, is extremely overpriced especially with plastic balls.

I absolutely hate building links on my own and I understand that is an option, but I am looking for a plug and play kit. I can find lots of kits for the 12.3" wheelbase, but none for the 11.4" wheelbase. What options are left for the Dingo?

Thanks.

The links that came with the kit where absolutely to long. They pushed the axles toward the ends which resulted in the wheels catching the wheel wells when there was still 1/4" of travel before they would have hit the top of the well.

Every configuration I tried made it wonky. Maybe it was just me. However if I were in your situation, I would hack up the plastic links to get the size I wanted and find someone to do custom links.

If you want I can measure my link set, but that's only going to get you to where I liked it.

 

[svt923]

RC4x4 and TCS make sets for the Dingo, both are much better than the Axial set.

RC4x4 can be ordered through their FB page. Super Shafty also stocks some of their sets, I don't know if the Dingo kit is one.

TCS
TCS Crawlers SCX10 Aluminum 4 Link Kit (choose for 12.3" or 12.0" or 11.3" wheelbase)

 

[JatoTheRipper]

This is exactly what I'm looking for - options from small companies that I'm unaware of! Great info, guys! Please, keep it coming.

I am worried that some custom link sets have severe pinion angles that look like the driveshaft will bind. That's one thing I'm worried about.

 

[k7zpj]

This is exactly what I'm looking for - options from small companies that I'm unaware of! Great info, guys! Please, keep it coming.

I am worried that some custom link sets have severe pinion angles that look like the driveshaft will bind. That's one thing I'm worried about.

I use VP Titanium links on my Dingo length chassis:

Bottom Links -- 4 ea. 3/16 X 100mm Titanium Link Shaft VPS03929 -- Stock length

Top Links -- 4 ea 3/16 X 95mm Titanium Link Shaft VPS03928 -- Clocks the axle for a good pinion angle or if you want the stock flat angle -- 4 ea. 3/16 X 90mm Titanium Link Shaft VPS03927.

RC Accessories - Titanium Links - Vanquish Products

2 ea. Revo Traxxas Rod ends (8pk) TRA5347
Traxxas Rod Ends TRA5347 - Vanquish Products

The revo rod ends don't need to be screwed in all the way so if you went with the short top links you could extend the lenght if needed by only threading them on 2/3 of the way.

 

[Cultus]

I use VP Titanium links on my Dingo length chassis:

Bottom Links -- 4 ea. 3/16 X 100mm Titanium Link Shaft VPS03929 -- Stock length

Top Links -- 4 ea 3/16 X 95mm Titanium Link Shaft VPS03928 -- Clocks the axle for a good pinion angle or if you want the stock flat angle -- 4 ea. 3/16 X 90mm Titanium Link Shaft VPS03927.

RC Accessories - Titanium Links - Vanquish Products

2 ea. Revo Traxxas Rod ends (8pk) TRA5347
Traxxas Rod Ends TRA5347 - Vanquish Products


The revo rod ends don't need to be screwed in all the way so if you went with the short top links you could extend the lenght if needed by only threading them on 2/3 of the way.

I also went with the VP ti links, except i went 100mm on all 4 rear links, which clocks the rear up a bit more. On the front 100mm for the lower and a single 95mm on top with panhard. And i also picked up the SSD titanum steering/drag links to match. Once you go titanium you won't go back to aluminum, they glide over rocks and do not get all marred up like the aluminum ones do.

SSD TITANIUM STEERING LINKS FOR SCX10

i see SSD also has links sold in pairs of 84.5mm 92mm and 100mm. im sure some combination of those would do the trick as well

 

[JatoTheRipper]

RC4x4 and TCS make sets for the Dingo, both are much better than the Axial set.

RC4x4 can be ordered through their FB page. Super Shafty also stocks some of their sets, I don't know if the Dingo kit is one.

TCS
TCS Crawlers SCX10 Aluminum 4 Link Kit (choose for 12.3" or 12.0" or 11.3" wheelbase)

RC4x4 are very nice, but I decided to purchase the TCS set because they are high clearances.

Thanks guys! "thumbsup"

 

[R2j]

I make straight and high clearance sets for SCX10 and custom lengths. Lowers are 1/4" and uppers are 3/16", come assembled with Revo rod ends.


http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chassis-suspension/337145-stainless-steel-link-kits-scx-10-a.html

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I installed my TCS links and I'm not happy. As you can see in the photos below, the rear axle is barely clocked. The truck will ride the rocks on the driveshaft rather than the links. Has anybody else had these issues with the TCS links?

TCS is willing to take them back with I appreciate, but I'm trying to determine if something is wrong before I do that. I measure the links and all of the top links are the same length and the same goes for all of the lower links. They are also all the same length.

 

[svt923]

Your front link mount is the problem. That servo plate/link mount pushes the upper link mounting point much further back than using the Axial link mount like you have on the rear axle. Swap over to the plastic axle mount in the front (or any of similar design) and your axle clocking problem should go away.

If you want more clocking out of the rear axle, swap out the rod ends on one side for Jato ends or install some spacers between the link and rod end.

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Your front link mount is the problem. That servo plate/link mount pushes the upper link mounting point much further back than using the Axial link mount like you have on the rear axle. Swap over to the plastic axle mount in the front (or any of similar design) and your axle clocking problem should go away.

If you want more clocking out of the rear axle, swap out the rod ends on one side for Jato ends or install some spacers between the link and rod end.

Yeah I know the front issue is caused by the STRC plate. I'm not worried about that. I just don't like the rear. The pinion angle isn't steep enough.

Are Jato ends longer than Revo ends?

 

[svt923]

Yeah I know the front issue is caused by the STRC plate. I'm not worried about that. I just don't like the rear. The pinion angle isn't steep enough.

Are Jato ends longer than Revo ends?

The Jato ones are longer by quite a bit but they can be trimmed if needed.

They are on the top with a Revo end below

 

[K.O.M.]

...I absolutely hate building links on my own and I understand that is an option...

I was in the same boat as you for the longest time. The all-thread covered by a sleeve and sandwiched by threaded link ends is the method I use and is strong enough for my purposes.

There are really a lot of ways to do this, as you probably already know, but not to brag, the cleanest method by far is with the tools and procedures I have been using for some time:

-3mm I.D. carbon fiber pipe
-M3 all-thread
-RC4WD metal end-links w/ balls

I go with metric as I don't want to pull a Losi and mix fastener standards.

I use the following tools:

Harbor Freight Chop Saw
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_25235.jpg

Harbor Freight Belt Sander
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_21866.jpg

Depending on how anal retentive I feel for the project, my tolerance on the links are all measured in the 0.0xx mm. For $80 plus the cost of stock, I've done about 16-20 sets of links already and couldn't be happier.

If I need something stronger, high clearance, or with an s-curve, then I can at least verify the correct eye-to-eye before sending out the specs to someone that can turn down some stainless steel rod and thread it for me.