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Decade Break

Nice thread! So I noticed you went w the rings once you went to the gmade shocks. I’ll attach an image of the difference in sizes between the axial shocks/rings & the ones from the 2362 Traxxas rings. It’s not a tight fit & I can see them bleeding out immediately. I guess I could add the spacers? Would keep pressure on the bottom of the caps, so it shouldnt leak - but there would be no seal on the outer walls.

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Try using the axial o-rings and replace the spacer with 1 or 2 traxxas x-ring.

It should work

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Ooh good idea. I already finished rebuilding the rear shocks. Swapped in the variable pistons. I’ll try that w the front shocks.


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Welp! Took it out for the first time today. Ripped the front driver shock out of the upper mounts, twice. First time was an easy repair - second time I lost the threaded pin & the ball. Going to order those wraith grommets to replace the upper balls & the Pro-Line universal hardware kit. Fully threaded bolt with a nut will definitely solve this problem.

I have to say, this thing has some get up & go! Bit bouncy, but I believe that was due to the oil. The initial build was with 35 & the rears felt like they were all spring. I upped the rear to 45 & decided to throw the same up front when I was rebuilding last night. 45 is way too much. Dropping the fronts down to the stock 30. The 35 actually felt real good but there was only enough in the bottle for the initial build.

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Just a quick one here. Shops are closed today & those grommets are, at best, arriving Friday. Well I happened along a small cutoff of vacuum line from when I was updating the hard lines to soft lines on my ‘87 XJ. Turns out it’s a good match! Not perfect, there’s a little bit of slop - but didn’t seem like much more than the balls had. I was able to run it out back for another 20 or so minutes.

I still need to hit the local shop... I have to make an XT60 to Traxxas adapter so I can charge the battery. I went with the XT60’s here but already have the Traxxas Live Peak Charger that I picked up when I got the 8S XMaxx.


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Welp! Took it out for the first time today. Ripped the front driver shock out of the upper mounts, twice. First time was an easy repair - second time I lost the threaded pin & the ball.

I am afraid I don't really understand the breakage, could you post a pic of the broken upper mount? I am in the process of deciding on parts for a Bomber build, so every little piece of information is interesting.
 
I am afraid I don't really understand the breakage, could you post a pic of the broken upper mount? I am in the process of deciding on parts for a Bomber build, so every little piece of information is interesting.
He lost the set screw and/or the to plastic ball from the shock cap.

Can easily be fixed with a metal ball end in the shock cap or a rubber bushing.

You can also secure the shocks with a regular screw + a lock nut If you dont mind the added work when you need to remove them.

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He lost the set screw and/or the to plastic ball from the shock cap.

Can easily be fixed with a metal ball end in the shock cap or a rubber bushing.

You can also secure the shocks with a regular screw + a lock nut If you dont mind the added work when you need to remove them.

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Yup! The screw pulled threw the soft plastic & was lost along with the plastic ball. I have the wraith grommets in order. In fact they should arrive today. AXA1356. In the mean time, a small piece of soft vacuum line (old ODB1 style smog lines) is a great substitute. I also ordered the ProLine Universal kit 606305 to replace the grub screw. I did have 1 extra with the kit, so I’m using for now, along with moving to the next hole forward.

Apparently Traxxas no longer sells the connectors individually. Found this out after traveling ~ 45 minutes to the hobby shop. Well, since I was already there I broke down & bought new wheels lol. Vanquish Machete’s.

I did build an adapter cable out of the adapter piece that came with my venom battery. It came out ok. Noticed @ the very end I reversed the shrink wrap colors so those don’t reflect the actual polarity * lmao well that’s what happens when I’m doin this crap late into the night after a long day at work!

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He lost the set screw and/or the to plastic ball from the shock cap.

Can easily be fixed with a metal ball end in the shock cap or a rubber bushing.

You can also secure the shocks with a regular screw + a lock nut If you dont mind the added work when you need to remove them.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
How did the set screw back out? Is the mount stripped? The scew is threaded into both sides of the double sheer mount. I think it is a quite nifty selflocking design. Pictures of the upper mount would help.

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How did the set screw back out? Is the mount stripped? The scew is threaded into both sides of the double sheer mount. I think it is a quite nifty selflocking design. Pictures of the upper mount would help.

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It peeled the screw out & stripped the plastic. I just moved the upper to the 2nd set, haven’t had an issue since. Also went down in shock weight.

Been a while since my last lost. Work got crazy & w my little free time I’ve been spending a lot of time in sim racing ( iRacing, AC, RR3, etc).

So I broke out the RCs again, lately. Noticed the rear right axle shaft is tweaked. Damn. Guess I’ve got an excuse to upgrade [emoji23]. It still seems bouncy as hell! I’ve got hard pack dirt, with a loose top-layer in the back yard with smallish rocks (I live in th desert). It gets really squirlly & the ass end bounces all over the place. I feel there are a few problems.

First, tires. Stock rubber, VQ method wheels, PL crawler 2-stage foams. Hoping the foam breaks in more but wonder if I should go Hyrax, Super Swampers or BFG Baja tires that PL has?

Second - shocks. I’m going to upgrade the upper mounts, I would like to continue using the King shocks for now, but the spring feels too stiff. @ full adjustment, the truck doesn’t sag much under its own weight (dumped th spare tho). Front shocks feel like there’s virtually 0 travel. They squat a reasonable amount tho.

Third - Axles! I am seriously considering open front diff w heavy weight fluid. Locked front puts added stress on front components when turning. Again, the mindset of this is U4 style driving, where ever looks cool to take it out. I’ve made up a simple course in the back yard that’s good to sit back & drink beer to. Has a few bricks to climb over, cement slab to launch off into a high speed down hill, right hander, back stretch, right hander, up hill, then a req right section that requires climbin over some more bricks, tight 180 & down the slow start/finish/Beer table. [emoji1305]

I plan to pick up some small 5-10” size rocks from around the riverbeds & hills to create small rock gardens for the slower portions were im climbing over bricks.

Free times up, gotta get back to work. Have a couple other things to bring up but hopefully can get some more input on this bounce issue. The spare may help combat the bounce but that comes at the cost of higher COG & more high speed roll overs.




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Well, I managed to stretch one of the Traxxas rod end for the lower front arms today. Once I finally got home from work I started tearing into the car to replace that. I also remembered the “fix” I had planned and, well, forgot about. All the arms were a little short due to Traxxas rod ends. Turns out I had some anodized blue aluminum spacers I bought for some idea I had back when I was building my 3.3 Revo back in 08. Drilled them out to 3mm ID & now they fit.

Rebuilt the shocks, going down to 30r & 20f. Gonna bring the bomber to work tomorrow & see if the lighter oil helps. I think I expected too much, coming from heavier RC’s.

Gotta watch that servo horn. I did use Loc-Tight & it still backed out. I used a lot more this time. Thankfully that didn’t move much since I cranked down on the small clamping grubs. Already had to rebuild the servo partly due to the first service horn coming loose & chewing up the main gear. It was still usable, until a hard tumble on some rocks which managed to sheer a few gear teeth internally.

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So, that decade break.... not the Bomber, but I did finally tear into my dirty, grimy old Revo. Rebuilt shocks, which amazingly still had most if not all their fluid, rebuilt diffs, cleaned up the bulk of the gunk. Tires are wasted, but eh... forgot how much $ I put into this thing. Don’t know if I’m gonna take the upgrades & put them on a 2.0 E-Revo chassis, or sell the whole thing to put $ towards a Trophy Truck (Yeti score, Baja Rey, Senton), or another rock racer/bouncer...

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Gonna try to stop by Pegasus tomorrow, see if they’ve got some VP HD axles for the rear. Can’t find them online. Maybe some other upgrades worth grabbing for the Bomber. Can’t quite justify the links yet... the aluminum kit links are holding up, tho I had to make the spacers.
 
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