Custom 3d printed comp chassis build

[nedmo]

Nice work!
Lower link on the servo side will be a challenge...
What material are you using?

Cheers!


Yeah it will be. I have allowed for M3 brass inserts to use to screw the link into so that there is no need for a nut, as the link mount is tight against the servo. It will need a link with bassicaly two 90 bends, which isnt ideal.



I use PLA+. Its super strong, on average 10x stronger than normal PLA. I have attempted to snap the link mounts off and it takes lot of force so it should be strong enough.

 

[CM9000]

I can't believe I missed this. Nice work!

I'd advise though, you can't say that these parts will be for sale unless you have a blue star. I would go back and edit your posts that say the files will be for sale.

 

[nedmo]

I can't believe I missed this. Nice work!

I'd advise though, you can't say that these parts will be for sale unless you have a blue star. I would go back and edit your posts that say the files will be for sale.

Thanks. Post edited...

 

[xkill]

Yes, forum owners do nothing to keep it alive but if you talk about selling you need to pay for a blue star...:roll:

 

[Arcright]

That’s really impressive I wish the 1.9 was still alive here in blighty as I’ve hung onto my Mini Pro even though a few have tried to buy it off me LoL. I think I’ve had it about 8 years or more.

 

[nedmo]

That’s really impressive I wish the 1.9 was still alive here in blighty as I’ve hung onto my Mini Pro even though a few have tried to buy it off me LoL. I think I’ve had it about 8 years or more.

Thanks mate. Yep, all the build threads are from 08-14.

And xkill, yeah it's hilarious! Can't even pay for a SSL certificate


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[MAGZTEAMRIDER]

Re: 3d printed Mini Build - Purple Rock Eater!

Very nice job !!

Envoyé de mon DUK-L09 en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[nedmo]

Re: 3d printed Mini Build - Purple Rock Eater!

Got a comp this weekend so pushed hard this week to get it done.

Rustler driveshafts
30kg JX 8.4v servo - hard wired to batt.
Custom stainless links...first time I have ever made them!

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[Brake Weight]

She looks mean. Links are easier to make that you thought? I’ve made mine for 5-6 rigs now. Easier and way cheaper than buying them ready to go. Especially if you’re not 100% set on wheelbase.

 

[Eddy The Yeti]

She looks mean. Links are easier to make that you thought? I’ve made mine for 5-6 rigs now. Easier and way cheaper than buying them ready to go. Especially if you’re not 100% set on wheelbase.

Whats the easiest way boss. Having a fun time trying to figure out what's needed for an 11.4in wheel base SCX10 with vanquish SCX10.2 axles and a CMS setup for the mighty FC I'm building. "thumbsup"

 

[xkill]

Looking good!
I always make my links in all thread rod and when everything is ok make them out of stainless or titanium.
Time consuming but the best way to get it spot on IMO.

 

[Brake Weight]

Whats the easiest way boss. Having a fun time trying to figure out what's needed for an 11.4in wheel base SCX10 with vanquish SCX10.2 axles and a CMS setup for the mighty FC I'm building. "thumbsup"

I order 5mm stainless rod off of fleaBay slightly longer than needed or even double the lengthen cut to size. Whatever is more efficient. Also order up some m4 dies to cut the threads. Measure what you have and make adjustments to lengths needed. Always use mm since it’s easier math to deal with. Cut to desired length and then chuck into a cordless drill. Drill link into m4 die as slow as possible and voila.

 

[nedmo]

She looks mean. Links are easier to make that you thought? I’ve made mine for 5-6 rigs now. Easier and way cheaper than buying them ready to go. Especially if you’re not 100% set on wheelbase.

Yeah much easier. I used 3.2mm 316L TIG rod tapped to 4mm. I know it doesn't sound like it will work but it's extremely strong.

I even managed to nail a perfect bend in both rear links.

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[Eddy The Yeti]

Looking good!
I always make my links in all thread rod and when everything is ok make them out of stainless or titanium.
Time consuming but the best way to get it spot on IMO.

That sounds like a very good way to get exacting measurements. "thumbsup"

I order 5mm stainless rod off of fleaBay slightly longer than needed or even double the lengthen cut to size. Whatever is more efficient. Also order up some m4 dies to cut the threads. Measure what you have and make adjustments to lengths needed. Always use mm since it’s easier math to deal with. Cut to desired length and then chuck into a cordless drill. Drill link into m4 die as slow as possible and voila.

My major problem was not knowing the exact length needed. If I could order a 2-3 foot length and cut/tap as needed that would be cool.

I traded a buddy my B6 for his SCX10 from 2012 with upgrade shocks and wheel/tires. I find some new but never ran vanquish axles and get them not fully understanding what I was getting myself into by swapping SCX10.2 axles onto an SCX10. Getting a mighty fc body to fit for one of two reason, I've always been a COE fan and they don't sell just the UMG10 body by itself and that was going to be the kit I bought if I didn't find a trade for my B6.

I like xkill idea to use all thread for exact length then cut your choice of rod material.

I'll have to get a few more tools for the shop unless a plumbers type pipe cutter will slice 5/6mm pipe. "thumbsup"

 

[Brake Weight]

I'll have to get a few more tools for the shop unless a plumbers type pipe cutter will slice 5/6mm pipe. "thumbsup"

Most of the smaller pipe cutters will. A hacksaw will too. Just chuck the rod and apply a little pressure as you pull the hacksaw back and forth. Let the drill do the work.

 

[nedmo]

Re: 3d printed Mini Build - Purple Rock Eater!

So made it to my first comp on the weekend. Drove very well and surprised myself and everyone on the day.

Few things to.improve.

Voodoo AT are not a good tire in this arena. Have ordered some 1.9 rovers

Had a tumble in the last course and snapped the chassis and skid. So have gone back to the drawing board, beefed up the trans and changed the skid plate. Printing them now.

Need to work out better steering to get a few more degrees. Currently BTA but hitting before I can get to the limits. Also, I don't see how I can get more swing from my servo arm/linkage. It seems to be maxed out.

Possibly need some tungsten weights in my knuckles. But going to test new tires before I make this call.

I think with more practice it will be very competitive.

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[xkill]

I dont wanna be a negative guy but I use the printer a lot (use ABS), and I would not do a chassis out of printed parts...
Its a fun project but reliability will alway be an issue.

Still, it looks great!

 

[nedmo]

I dont wanna be a negative guy but I use the printer a lot (use ABS), and I would not do a chassis out of printed parts...
Its a fun project but reliability will alway be an issue.

Still, it looks great!

Thanks for the feedback. For me, this is the exact reason why I will use printed chassis. Its the challenge of creating something that performs well, is light and strong and easily replaceable. I have seen plenty of expensive CF chassis break in the exact same manner as this. But I can easily have spares printed in my toolbox, ready to swap out between courses.

This particular break was a result of a poor skid plate design. Single shear always will allow a levarage affect. I have since redesigned the skid to use M3 grub screws in double shear and beefed up the material on this chassis around the screw holes.

Again, this is still only PLA+ and strength was already impressive, surviving multiple tumbles at the comp. Next I can try other tough materials; PETG, CF Nylon etc etc.

 

[xkill]

For sure single sheer was the reason for that...
I like the design, test and re-design part of the hobby!

And having a 3D printer helps a lot!

 

[T_Tank]

Well if you feel extra crazy you could make the chassis has some depth to the plates since we can design things that are the equiv of a cnc'd part but the opposite. You'll figure it out though its all about eyeballing where you think load stresses are gonna be in your designs when they will be under normal use or flat out crash.