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CMS limits steering?

thats just it, the distance will not be the same. if you take the bent one and measure between the holes in a straight line and get the measurement of say...2-3/4 inches. now if you straighten that rod and remeasure, it will now be longer between the holes...how much depends on how straight you make it. It DOES make a difference..in my example it is now 3 inches long. a gain of a 1/4 inch.

I am saying to straighten the bent one first, not replace it with a straight one as the straight one might be just the same length as the bent one when measured hole to hole. These kits sometimes need slight modifications to work as intended, due to differences in every ones setup...

Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear... I wans't going to "bend" the one currently installed. The RC4WD CMS Kit comes with two options, a bent link and a straight link. As you can see in teh pic the hole to hold distance is the same.

Wraith-CMS-unit_800_DSC_0199.jpg
 
Ahh. Correct you are. But now that I see the actual truck it still looks off center. looks really bad viewed from the top. Anyway I would try to put a little bend in the panhard bar to shorten it up if you cant make a new one. Leave the Tierod the length it is (bent one or straight doesn't matter, imaginary line drawn through the mounting locations needs to be parallel, not the bars per say, and same length) and then you can clock the horn a tooth on your servo. Your steer ahead will be straight, axle will be centered, and have increased steering to the right. All should be good as long as you are not already maxed out turning left.

Another thought I had is disconnect the steering linkages and make sure there is no binding when turning right at the knuckles. If there is it could be the servo lifting the chassis instead of turning the wheels. Much more prevalent on vehicles with taller ride heights

Anyway, Good luck!

As I stated, I'm till a newbie... could you explain a little more about what shortening the panhard bar will do and about those points being parrallel to the steering link?

Although new to RC's ~1.5 years ago, this is my first crawler and the suspension geometry isn't all sinking in my think head just yet.

Thanks again to all!
 
The pan hard bar centers the axle under the frame.... By shorting or lengthening it you move the axles center point under the frame.... As for the steering link by keeping it parallel to the pan hard it reduces "bump steer".
 
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For shits and giggles try putting the straight steering link in and see if it makes a diffrence.... I think it will but that's just one guys opinion. If it dosnt it was an easy place to start the trouble shooting
 
Just trust me on this. I had the exact same problem with my wraith using the chassis mounted servo set up. I could not figure it out for the life of me. Finally after talking to Harley he told me that my ride height was too high. I flipped the lower shock mounts and it made a world of difference.
 
well i think I've got it figured out. I didn't lower it (not that I didn't believe everyone) but just tried something. First I switched to the straight link from the bent one, then I added some spacers in it so that I could offset the servo arm. Now I have to use endpoint adjustments (65/85%) to not rub the lower links so I think its good!

Thanks for all the help along the way... open to any thoughts or comments on this fix. I also thought I'd show my lil workspace while I was posting.







 
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