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Class 1 CMAX Defender Pickup

Loehdingc

Pebble Pounder
Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
103
Location
Montana
I bought a Note 4 to replace my 5, ando the camera is much worse, to my satisfsction!
This will be my second hard body build. I didn't do any step by step of the CMAX chassis because GCM already has all the directions you'd ever need. If there are any complications assembling the body Ill try to remember to give details. This build has been and will be easy and fun.

Here's my parts list that I have/are in the mail:

GCM -
CMAX Ultimate Coil Spring Kit
TM8 coil right drop front axle, TM8 coil rear axle, diff covers
CMAX links for 330mm wb and steering linkd for coil axle
TM8 Axles hardware kit
Stealth BL 1.9 Beadlocks
Black LOCK scale hubs
Straight-6 motor set
CMAX electronics tray
Scale radiator and fan (might not look right in comparison to what the radiator looks like in front)

Electronics:
HH: Crawlmaster 13t Pro, Brxl, HV500
CC BEC 2.0
Gearhead rx bypass
Killerbody light kit
Unkown 3s lightbar, looks great though
Heyok winch controller
Commando high voltage freespool winch (might need the 4 amp controller?)

Other parts -
KLR 1.9x4.19 ATs (pre-ordered)
KLR foams (I think they're for lighter trucks)
STRC aluminum knuckles
Kyosho Velvet 90mm heavy spring
LURC scale hardware
127-195 & 85-115mm Devil Driveshafts
Rcmodelex rubber fender flairs, front bumper, sliders
TRC D110 pickup body
TRC D110 pickup roof rack/roll bar/brush guard


Parts I need:
Rear bumper
GCM shapeways body mount/battery tray


I have a few bumpers that will fit the slightly smaller RC4WD Defender bodies, but trial and error, and many e-mails, got me mostly sorted out on trail armor.

I have the chassis assembled. It went together with ease. I did pin down from a 14t to a 12t because I want this as slow as it can be. The steering to servo link was much too long, maybe because I had to mount my servo in towards the cab as far as it can go. Tiny Trucks USA said Id be sent another but found one to work for now. The electronics tray does not allow the rear suspension to compress fully, and it won't fit my BRXL anyways, so that goes in the parts box. Also looks like I may have to do some cutting on the chassis to properly mount the bumper:cry:. I might just buy links that will position the body over the chassis more and scoot the trans forward to compensate. The way it sits now Ill need to make extensions to attach a rear bumper...and chop an inch or more off the front:cry:.
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I have the electronics tested, other than the 2.0 BEC. It runs around the house well, barring my electronics and battery flopping around. Ill have to buy a few 2s batteries because the 4s makes this thing very fast.
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I primed the body and am waiting for a friend to clear his shop so I can paint it. Using Tamiya spray cans, Luftwaffe Blue, flat white top, and a beige-ish and brown two tone interior.
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All I need now is for GCM to make the body mounts and then I can mock it all up. I think Ill have paint done late Feb, so I probably will have it all ready before the mounts are available.
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There are probably many similar builds like this, but it's going to be too fun to drive this thing, and since I can count the number of people who are into crawling where I live on one hand it'll be unique here.
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(this shows the few mm that the box stops the suspension. When I only have like 15 mm travel, every bit counts.)
If anyone has any tips, tricks, criticisms, or whathaveyou, please let me here it!

20170128_200907.jpg

I also need to decide which hubs. And do I cut the shafts ends or just ad another nut?
 
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My RCmodelex bumper and sliders showed up, but my cell phone (and only camera) finally died on me. I might have to go buy a cheap camera to get these photos up. The bumper is HEAVY. I might have to switch to stiffer springs. It looks like the battery trays might be released soon. I'll have to do a mock-up before paint at this rate.
 
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Paint! And the springs might need to be softer. I put that bumper on by sticking about half a pound of neodymium magnets, and the springs didn't flinch.
 
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These rubber fenders look great, but I think there's a problem:
20170128_200243.jpg
The front left fender has been replaced by a rear fender.
 
My fender is on its way. I got my rear bumper in. I did not it expect to look like this.
20170202_151437.jpg
It might work. I don't know if scale bolts will be strong enough to replace those button heads. I do like how long the posts are because the chassis is almost 2" short of the end. This is why I may get new links to move the axles forward on the chassis. It's great that the trans and steering servo can move as well.
 
After only a few hours of bending I got the roof rack to sit slightly straight. Now I need to braze on the Gearhead tabs for this neat looking lightbar, but I don't know how/where I'll hide the wire yet.
20170211_211757.jpg
 
Hacked a little peice of bumper off so it fits better. With my CMAX mounting parts from GCMs Shapeways giving me an accurate idea of where my body sits, it helps me start moving forward again. I'll need to make a rear and front supporting mount too because my body will be very heavy with all the stuff I want to ad.
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And Rcmodelex came through with a replacemental fender already. I'm excited to scrape against things!
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I got paint down! My buddy even had the translucent red and orange, but I guessed on the rear light colors and messed up. Silly me to think the lights would be symmetrical.
IMG_20170218_204707892.jpg
The only issue so far was the window in the roof didn't fit, but a little sanding fixed that. I've lost a seat belt part and the gas can indention, but I can make those.
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