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chimera project : bodyless Cr01

I finally received the lipos i was waiting for, so i took some time to work on this project.

I decided tu put the transmission back to its original position ie with the motor in the front, and to cut the chassis plate a bit more to fix the new "rollcage" made of 3mm delrin lower.

These roll bars are much lighter (8 gr each) and should help with the cog.

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As the new skid i made moved the mount points for the lower links, i had to shorten them in order to keep the same wheelbase.

I also cut the previous skid down to "delrin french fries" :

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i then drilled and filed them to make a set of chassis brace.

I made a lexan tray for the esc, and used it to hide some wiring as well.

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I sticked the bec to the front side plate of the transmission case using some 3M Dual lock

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I also received another cheap towerpro servo to replace the previous one that broke down, got it installed but still need to make a steering rod to get it working.

I opened the Futaba Rx case and tucked the antenna wire inside, i will see how it behaves that way.

Here are some pics of the rig at the moment :

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With the small lipos it now weighs 2420 Gr / 5.3 lbs with 57% of the weight to the front.

I still have to tear apart the shocks to smoothen the rear suspension travel and to make some lexan body panels.

I have just one tiny problem with this setup, the tranny case with the motor at the front requires a longer front shaft to work properly, while checking the suspension travel i had the unpleasant surprise to see the male side of the front shaft pop out :x

So i'm currently waiting on some longer junfac universal to fix this problem and to start fine tuning this build once again.

To be continued ...
 
As i still haven't received the 120-155mm junfac shaft i need to test this setup, and having read an interesting tutorial on Antisquat Vs Torquetwist, I decided to mess with the upper links.

I had to torture this poor rig until it finally told me where i could aproximately find its COG :

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I used Ms Paint to quickly determine where was the instant center from each axle

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and what i should aim for

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Then i decided to tear the chassis appart to drill some new "mounting holes" for the upper links.

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With the upper links attached like this, i get massive antisquat from both axles .

I also shortened the front upper links to declock the front axle, getting way more caster than before.

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An unexpected result was the front junfac shaft not "poping out" anymore (male part engages by 2-3mm but it will do for the moment ;-))

So i tested it on a hastily made course

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Having coped well with the wood logs, i then decided to run some packs on my favorites rocks.

After 10mn it had crashed on every course i used to climb, obviously the rear axle had so much grip that on steep climbs it would capsize the rig.

I changed the rear mounting point of the upper rear links like this

IMG_7127.jpg


And it then performed like a charm, rear axle with massive squat allowing the rear tyres to slip/skid (i don't know the precise term in english) when facing a steep climb and front axle with loads of antisquat getting much more grip than before.

On a side note the steering setup with heavy caster is really a good improvement, combined with the stronger servos (Bec @ 6,5v) it is very efficient.

I'll wait for the replacement junfac shaft to continue the tests, don't want to destroy the one i currently use.

To be continued ...
 
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I've been out of town for a week and meanwhile i still haven't received the longer junfac shaft i ordered :x , so i haven't made any progress on this project.

From the 3 packs i ran with the last setup, i'd say the 1300 lipos give around 35/ 40 Mn running time depending on the driving and the playground...

I'll check more precisely as soon as i can.
 
At last i received my longer Junfac shaft, i got it installed and took my rig for a spin.

After 20 Mn, my left front wheel decided to live a life on its own :evil: rolling away from the car :evil:

The wheel axle had just broke at the base of the cup, i was so furious i just threw it away on an impulse.

Back home i made a picture of the right one :

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As they seemed pretty weak, i decided to go back to a pair of Tamiya reinforced wheel axles i had in stock.

I managed to attach the wheels despite the wider Hex by using a thin M5 locknut and some Locktite 243.

As i found the rear suspension too stiff, i decided to tear appart the rear shocks and install the 3 holes pistons instead of the 2 holes ones i was previously using.

IMG_7176.jpg


i also decided to remove the inner springs i had previously installed :

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to replace them by some delrin 6mm washer i drilled and cut from some chassis braces i had left :

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Then i filled the shocks with some 10w40 motor oil i had for my 1:1 car.

I also changed the mounting point of the shocks on the chassis to allow them to work more "vertically", i moved the rear upper links on the axle side above the servo plate and i put a longer horn to the rear servo to gain some steering throw.

I quickly ran 2 packs in it this morning and encountered zero issues.

here are some pics from this session :

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I'm pretty pleased with the way the rear suspension worked with those modifications.

It is much smoother than before and it gives a bit more travel than with the inner springs.

The rear steering is more efficient too with the longer servo horn.

I still have to play with the weight distribution as i find the front a bit too light in the steepest climbs, and i still have to make some body panels and a lexan protection for the lipos...

To be continued...
 
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Happy with the results from the previous session, i decided to go back to the meanest playground in the neighborhood.

Inspired by mirandayopo, i chose to do so using my mtb and my old trekking backpack :

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I was really bluffed by the way my rig performed on these rocks, as a consequence i didn't take any picture nor made any video (even if i had carried all the necessary equipment to do so).

I had not enjoyed driving my rig that much in a while, partly because i had not been able to do so during the last month, but mostly because it allowed me to climb some rocks i wouldn't have believed it could.

The only issue i encountered came from a sharp rock that almost cut one of the Bec wire.

So, back home i decided to quickly do some body panels to protect the exposed components :

IMG_7247-1.jpg


IMG_7241.jpg

I also decided to modify once again the rear upper links atachment to the rear axle :

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they go back under the servo plate again and are much closer together than before(will see if this prooves to be more efficient).

As a result the Rx sits lower and has moved a little towards the center of the chassis.

To be continued...
 
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Thanks for the comment !

As SteveVanB said, this bike is an Ellsworth Truth.

I bought this frame at a great price 4 years ago, and took almost a year putting the bike together; as mtb components / parts tend to be more expensive than rc ones ...

I'm pretty happy with the final result, it has a distinctive look and still performs well compared to “modern” frames.

On a side note, one should always carry another pair of shoes when going rockcrawling using a mtb with spd pedals, Shimano spd shoes are definitely not adapted to rock climbing ...
 
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Just a quick picture to show the last modifications i made on the chimera, while waiting for a more complete post :

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To be continued...
 
A week ago i decided to make some real body panels, once cut, i painted them with a spray can i had bought months ago at the lhs but had never used.

The cap on the spray can was looking like silver/chrome, here's the result after 5 layers on clear Lexan :

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Not too happy with the results and being short on Lexan, i used some brake fluid to remove the paint and clean the body panels :

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Once done, i washed them with soap and water to remove the remaining brake fluid and went back to the Lhs to find a more appropriate colour.

While waiting for the paint to dry once more, i decided to remove the antenna wire i had tucked in the rx (it caused too much glitches and gave a ridiculous range).

I soldered a new antenna wire to the Rx and managed to have it wrapped around one of the braces at the top of the chassis.

As i changed the colour of the body panels i used the set of plated wheels i had in stock and painted the beadlock rings accordingly.

I recycled the first body panels i had made into some lipo protections that i painted the same colour as the body panels :

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Here's the result :

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I had to make another version of the hood though, as this one would pop off to easily while crawling.

I came up with a basic solution that allows it to open in order to attach the lipo plug to the esc :

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These last pictures were made during a test session a few days ago, i'll post a video soon.

To be continued...
 
I found some pictures of a "misshapen clone" of my rig :

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Not sure what to think about it :|
 
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So here's a new video available in HD i made a week ago :

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It was filmed on the same playground as the former video.

It highlights 2 facts :

- the clearance is a little better without compromising the Cog too much (for exemple it now can clim the big rock at 3' without having to do it Foff style)

- the supension is smoother than before but still a long way from being perfect (too much squat on the rear axle makes it difficult to use full travel, but it's the best compromise i've achieved at the moment)

As a result, i resumed the hunt for some 3mm Delrin sheets, as i intend to build enhanced chassis plates for this rig.

I might as well try a more efficient transmission case depending on the bargains i'll be able to find.

To be continued ...
 
It is not yours?
I thought at first glance that you have changed the design.
Where did you find?
I therefore also inspire you.
With just minor changes.
I have a black material and instead use an axle reversed by RCTRAX dig.
 
Hello Carlos46, i found the pictures of the other rig on a french rc forum.

It seems that someone took inspiration from my work, i honestly had a good laugh at the sight of this "thing" :lmao:

How's yours looking ?

Are you happy with the RcTrax Dig Unit ?
 
I have not used it.
The work employs me so that the models have little time.
So far I only přimontoval Dig for transmission.
I had a little wedge, since it did not fit exactly, but perhaps it will work well.

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Thanks for the picture "thumbsup"

It looks like a pretty bulky dig unit, can you tell me the lenght between your output shafts using it ?

Do you know how much it weighs ?

From what i've read until now, these units tend to wear out pretty quick and they can be difficult to find.

I think a Rc4wd R2 might be lighter, tougher and besides, there's plenty of spare parts available...
 
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Actually I do not know how much it weighs.
The model I'm just riding a hobby, so I hope it lasts a while.
This wear is certainly possible. But I do not know.
I have no experience with it yet.
 
Pretty nice evolution of the CR, nice job!

(like the bike too, I just retired mt 15 year old GT and went 29'er myself)
 
Thanks for your comments !

OSRC said:
just retired mt 15 year old GT and went 29'er myself

What was the most disturbing, modern frame capabilities or new wheels size ?

Concerning the rig, I'm currently waiting for some 3mm delrin sheets i found and a R2 transmission with Dig.

I hope to have some time to work on this project soon.

To be continued...
 
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