I'm familiar with Supershafty's products. I've already bought a few things from SS for my first Capra, plus I'm considering one of his trans (with the VP Hurtz V2 dig) for my second Capra. I am curious about something...for the trans, there are "stubby" and "extended"options. What, exactly, are they? My assumption would be that it's referring to the front/rear output, work "stubby" meaning a shorter output shaft, and "extended" meaning a longer output shaft. If that's correct, what would the output shaft lengths (standard, stubby & extended) be? Also (again, if my assumption is correct), can one specify which side the "extended" and/or "stubby" would be on?The complete transmission options run the gamut of the $200 bombproof units from Super Shafty that come with a lifetime warranty to $35 generic all steel ebay units.
Straight-up is preferable, but not a "requirement". That's why I've said (a few times) that, if shock hoops/towers at the 324mm wheelbase is the 'longest' I'll be able to get, then I'd just have to go with longer rear links, and have the shocks at a slight angle. As for the shock towers, themselves, they're not really part of the problem...they're not really "in the way" (although, that depends on which chassis I go with).Just a thought, but why do you need the shocks to be completely straight up? Otherwise maybe cantilever shocks could be an idea? Then the shock towers won't be in the way for a low body
I am curious about something...for the trans, there are "stubby" and "extended"options. What, exactly, are they? My assumption would be that it's referring to the front/rear output, work "stubby" meaning a shorter output shaft, and "extended" meaning a longer output shaft. If that's correct, what would the output shaft lengths (standard, stubby & extended) be? Also (again, if my assumption is correct), can one specify which side the "extended" and/or "stubby" would be on?
Thank you for the clarification. Don't think the front output would need to be extended, but, considering the 329mm wheelbase I need to achieve, having an extended rear output seems like a smart idea.Your understanding is correct though Supershafty does get a little confusing on these options. There are 2 different output lengths available in 2 different diameters despite 3 different names.
The "standard" 5mm output is the same dimensions as a stock Axial output where the driveshaft essentially mounts to the transmission right next to the case. The "stubby" option is the same length but in a 6mm diameter. The 6mm outputs are stronger but require driveshafts with 6mm yokes. SS sells the 6mm yokes for MIP shafts but most shafts are 5mm.
The "extended" output option (available in 5 or 6mm) makes the output shaft as long as the original Wraith trans which is longer to make the driveshafts clear the huge Wraith skid and to accommodate the optional dig. I forget the exact amount of extra length, 15mm maybe?
The extended option serves 2 main purposes: to enable a SCX style 3 gear to be installed in a Wraith or other large skidplate applications and to allow larger spur gears to fit without rubbing the driveshaft. Although an long wheelbase truck could also benefit from an extended rear output as rear driveshaft wouldn't have to be as long. I'm sure SS would assemble it for you with the extended output in either direction if you ask but changing the extended output side is as simple as opening up the case and turning the bottom gear around.
I had originally considered it, but some reason I'm not forgetting, I had eliminated it from consideration...just wish I could remember the reason.Have you considered just getting a trx4? The transmission has the motor forward. The chassis rails are very similar to the vs4-10. Has plenty of clearance for portals, and the defender is a 12.8” wb out of the box. It’s a heck of a platform too with a lot of upgrades available.
Toyzuki makes a forward motor mount for the vs4-10. Don't know if it works with center dif.Well, I think I've made a decision...although, it is possible it could change (especially if anyone gives me any really good reasons to consider something else). Looks like I'll probably go with the VP VS4-10 chassis kit, and SS Complete 6mm OutPut Bomb Proof trans. I had always planned on using SSD portal axles, so whatever chassis & trans I decided to use, they HAD to work with the SSD portal axles.
As nice as the VFD trans is, considering it doesn't "play nice" with anything but VP axles (specifically, the $300 VS4-10 front axle), I can't "play" with it. Mama always said, "Never play with bullies." (I'm NOT calling Vanquish a "bully", only the VFD trans)
~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
Even if it didn't work, it was worth trying. Kinda reminds me of my Rusty-Frankie build (converted a Rustler 4x4 VXL into a "true" stadium truck). I attempted to many different things, many of which failed...but, bit-by-bit, is come together, and is almost truly finished (tho, are any of our vehicles ever "truly finished"...lol?).No it won't.![]()
To be honest, I'd almost forgotten about GCM. I purchased one of their GCM LowRange/LRT2 transmissions w/ T-case, or installed in my TF2 (when I get around to building it), which is super smooth. When I received it, I opened the package, and started "playing" work the transmission. It was hard to believe how super-smooth it was.I don't think anyone mentioned the GCM CMAX chassis. It's almost 20" (approx 500mm) long. More than enough to accommodate even a leaf sprung WB up to about 370mm.
To be honest, I'd almost forgotten about GCM. I purchased one of their GCM LowRange/LRT2 transmissions w/ T-case, or installed in my TF2 (when I get around to building it), which is super smooth. When I received it, I opened the package, and started "playing" work the transmission. It was hard to believe how super-smooth it was.
Honestly, this is a chassis worth considering...plus, out of the box, it supports the 329/330mm wheelbase I'm in need of. My only question, since I'm not familiar (at least in the RC world), is how a coil-over suspension compares to a link suspension (yes, I know they also offer the link 'conversion' kits, one of which is for a 330mm wheelbase...Yahoo!!!). Is it closer to a link, or a leaf-spring, suspension?
Considering the body I plan on using, the coil-over suspension would be more "scale", but I know nothing of its articulation (especially compared to the link & leaf-spring suspensions). Any info you can provide regarding the differences/similarities would really help me, and would be very-much appreciated. And, thanks again for having my memory regarding GCM.
~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
The question I was asking was in regards to the articulation...how the coilovers compare to the links & leaf-springs. As I haven't built the TF2, I don't yet know what it's articulation is. Also, being that the only crawler I have completely built is my Capra (the Trail King is very close, but as I haven't decided on a body, I haven't yet purchased any wheels), I can't use its articulation as an example.Looking at their website, a coil spring suspension appears to be the same thing as a linked suspension, except the springs are separate from the shock, which is more scale on some vehicles. The radius arm suspension goes one step further, by using a scale radius arm set-up in the front with leaf suspension in the rear, similar to a Ford Bronco, adding to scale realism. And finally, the 4 wheel leaf suspension, which if you have a TF2, then you already know about this one. If you are wanting a custom wheel base length, then the coil sprung or linked suspension is the way to go, and it offers more flex in the suspension as well. Leaf suspension is more for scale action. "thumbsup"
I've been purposely "holding back" on mentioning the body...but, I might as well:If you have a body in mind, let us know what it is. Maybe new info will stem from knowing that. "thumbsup"
I've been purposely "holding back" on mentioning the body...but, I might as well:
HMMWV (full slant-back military)
~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
To your first point, unless you have a way of custom designing & fabrication parts to create/build your own portal axles, as well as a way of mounting them to a Slash 4x4 (you'd probably want to use the Rally A-arms, not the Slash/Rustler/Stampede A-arms), I don't see how it would be possible.Being that it is a Hummer. Why not build a independent 4x4 with portals?
Traxxas Slash 4x4 with portals? I have always wanted to do a build like that....Other thoughts....
As for your second point, I don't have any real experience with this on RCs...but, having owned 1:1 4x4s, I'd have to agree. Can't tell you how many times I got myself (meaning my vehicle, not me, personally) into trouble, especially when I was stationed back way, at Ft. Bragg.Articulation is not always the end all answer to performance. I have found over a few different builds that much more than 4" is not necessary for good rough terrain handling, and is often a hindrance. A wheel falls into a hole and wedges... Or you articulate and flop over... Side hilling is a total flop literally.... tq twist is much more pernounced...and on and on.
Finally, on point 3, again, now personal RC experience, but noted, and very h much work taking into consideration....which also raises some questions. I still never got an actual weight for the body I'm considering, but, from what I understand, it is somewhat heavier than usual (I've also been told that, while the majority of the parts are hard (probably ABS) plastic, there are, evidently, some metal parts). Knowing that, and going on what 58_Willys said about spring lengths & articulation on coil-Suspension vehicles, something just popped into my mind.Long wheel base rigs are fun, and are incredibly capable in vert climbs. I found my 14 7/8" long wheel base F650 did not need nearly as much articulation as the shorter wheel base rigs. I ran 70mm coilovers on both ends and she would match the articulation of a typical 90mm scx10.