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***Chaotic Crawlers Titanium XR10 links (simple how to)***

Links are in and damn do they make this truck better!

Killer vendor. Thanks for all your help! And top notch quality from a top notch guy.

IMAG0210.jpg
 
Would it work or will the wheelbase be way off 12.5 inches (either over or under)?


We are pretty confident that the BJ4 Lowers will work with the progress chassis. However at the time we don't have any upper links that will work with this chassis.

If the demand is there anything is possible!!
 
All Links are back in stock...

All pre-orders went out either Saturday the 16th or Monday the 18th.

Thanks again for all the Support
 
I receiced my lower set today and they work great. The fit was perfect and the size helped make the travel smoother than with the other lowers I have been running. Thanks"thumbsup"
 
That's great to hear!!!

Thanks for posting up and lettin us know!"thumbsup"
We love hearing feedback from our customers!!!
 
My link install on a dead-stock XR10 didn't quite work out. You wrote:

"The rears is where you have to change it up a little!
Instead of using all 4 short rod ends on the uppers, you will instead use...
2 long bent and 2 short bent on both the uppers and lowers!
This moves your rear motor up and out of harms way."

Did that and got a LOT of clocking on the rear motor. At full height the links are nearly touching the top of the motor and they make contact early in the stroke. Obviously I can correct this by changing to short/short links on the upper links and even long/long on the lowers if necessary. But I'm wondering why it didn't work out straight out of the box? Are some XR10s different than others -- or your links not all the same?

Your Post #1 photos don't have motors installed. How much clearance link to top of the rear motor do you get with stock (4") shocks in the Axial-recommended holes? IE a totally stock XR built straight to the book.

Photo at max height:
 
Typically the short rod end on the rear upper should be on the axle end of the link. The shorter end will bring the bend on the link closer to the axle where it's supposed to be.

All the links are identical. There should be no reason yours won't work as well.

What do you mean "they make contact early in the stroke"??
If they are contacting the motor, the short rod end should fix that. "thumbsup"
 
You need to shorten the uppers and then the motor will not hit them. The motor doesnt need to be that high. Lower the motor and you will lower the center of gravity too"thumbsup"
 
Typically the short rod end on the rear upper should be on the axle end of the link. The shorter end will bring the bend on the link closer to the axle where it's supposed to be.

Yeah. I don't think your instructions mentioned that, but it makes sense and I'll try swapping those ends. Realistically though, I think it will only move the bend rearward maybe 1/8" or so. And will also draw the horizontal part of the link lower and closer to the motor. If you look at my photo it seems like it ought to be a wash. But I'll try it and report back. I do agree with the other comment that the motor looks overclocked -- maybe more than you had intended?

Just to cover the remote possibility that I got the wrong links in the package, can you tell me what the eye-to-eye lengths are supposed to be? I'll get a set of digital calipers on them when I remove them to swap the ends.
 
Our website only list a Recommendation and not exactly what you must do. We have used those links personally and sent out several with no issues. If you feel the motor is clocked too high we recommend going with 2 short bent rod ends. We designed these links around using the Axial rod ends because of all the different sizes it should give you endless options.

Could you PM, email or post some pictures at full flex?? I would like to get a better idea of where it is hitting so we can solve your issue.

thanks
 
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