m59y
Newbie
Changed the upper link mount positions on the skid today - bought a few more degrees of angle on my test wall, will try out 'for real' hopefully tomorrow. Moved the fronts to the top hole, rears to the middle.
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Capra Shocks, Springs, and Oil Weights
- Thread starter Panther6834
- Start date
Changed the upper link mount positions on the skid today - bought a few more degrees of angle on my test wall, will try out 'for real' hopefully tomorrow. Moved the fronts to the top hole, rears to the middle.
I’m running the stock shocks with stock springs, soft in front a the heavier in rear. 40wt front 50wt rear to help slow things down. I also raised the upper mounting points front and rear. I’ve messed with lots of springs and oil weight. So far this is the setup that’s working for me. In my opinion these are the best shocks that Axial has come up with. I’ve managed to keep mine from leaking as well. Hope that helps you.
Last edited:
dezfan
I wanna be Dave
Stock Capra shocks
Axial 8mm internal limiters
Stock Enduro springs
60wt oil
All subject to change.
Axial 8mm internal limiters
Stock Enduro springs
60wt oil
All subject to change.
Still Bill
Rock Stacker
For more vertical climbing on mainly rock surfaces at Donner Ski Ranch, Moonrocks, Prison Hill and Wingfield Park (all within 30 miles from my home), I am now testing (and liking):
- Stock Capra shocks with full travel
- Capra soft/soft (purple) springs with adjusters about 1/2" down all around (droop is about 50% to make lower links parallel to ground)
- 30 wt/40 wt (front/rear) with virtually no rebound after bleeding
- Shocks laid over by attaching top at 3rd hole
Other factors
- Proline Hyrax Predator 4.75 tires (vented in tread) with Proline 2-stage foams on Vanquish 1.9 wheels
- Shock fluids below 50 wt tend to leak with Capra shocks. Lower shock fluid weights require more servicing than the higher weights
- Temps here are 70-95 in summer and 35-50 in winter. Spring/Fall temps are in between.
- Elevations range from 4500-8000 feet. Going up to Donner may require you to bleed shocks.
- Stock Capra shocks with full travel
- Capra soft/soft (purple) springs with adjusters about 1/2" down all around (droop is about 50% to make lower links parallel to ground)
- 30 wt/40 wt (front/rear) with virtually no rebound after bleeding
- Shocks laid over by attaching top at 3rd hole
Other factors
- Proline Hyrax Predator 4.75 tires (vented in tread) with Proline 2-stage foams on Vanquish 1.9 wheels
- Shock fluids below 50 wt tend to leak with Capra shocks. Lower shock fluid weights require more servicing than the higher weights
- Temps here are 70-95 in summer and 35-50 in winter. Spring/Fall temps are in between.
- Elevations range from 4500-8000 feet. Going up to Donner may require you to bleed shocks.
Last edited:
Mr. Crawley EC
Pebble Pounder
Well, I run on loose dirt and mud down here in South America. I use the softer stock springs with pen spring hack and 80wt oil.
Very hard terrain that requires a lot of flex and sometimes a lot of punch for some rock/mud/root obstacles.
It’s a very odd combination but it makes it very stable an works like a charm for what I use it for.
BTW: Hyraxes have been proven to be useless for every driver down here so conditions may be very different.
Very hard terrain that requires a lot of flex and sometimes a lot of punch for some rock/mud/root obstacles.
It’s a very odd combination but it makes it very stable an works like a charm for what I use it for.
BTW: Hyraxes have been proven to be useless for every driver down here so conditions may be very different.
Last edited:
Still Bill
Rock Stacker
I hear you; however, I have been able to get the stock shocks to work pretty well...if I service them regularly.
My Enduro kit is too good for me to want to rob them. Wait! It's Black Friday...I may order an extra set...LOL
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
I have no problem with the Capra's shocks...put in 2.75mm if internal limiters, and the rear is flat & front almost-flat. Have no leaking at all, and they're smooth as can be. However, the problem I AM having is the springs, as the front warped extremely easily. Considered the Element Enduro springs, but my LHS didn't have any...will need to order them.
~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
Still Bill
Rock Stacker
Does "warped" mean that the springs lost their springiness?
I went back to no internal limiters with the optional soft/soft Capra springs.
I don't do much trailing. Mostly rock climbing in the Sierra Nevadas and foothills.
m59y
Newbie
Updates:
* Removed 2mm spacers (kept pen springs)
* Stiffened pen springs (stretched to ~2x length - I know - bad!)
* Element grey springs front/rear
I have a little over 50% droop, so may move the top shock position back to middle or outer holes and/or go up one spring in stiffness (no preload).
I agree with other comments that the Axial shocks are not the best. Piston/bore fit is sticky in spots. Tightening the lower caps all the way causes excessive friction between the o-rings and shock shaft; I leave them just snug instead of tight, but have to watch for them backing off. Have not had any leaking problems though.
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
No...I mean, literally, "warped". Imagine taking a straw, and just slightly bending it...not so far as to cause an angle in the straw, but just enough to cause a minor bend. When the front shocks are compressed, they rub against the shock body on one side. If I rotate the spring, it still rubs against the shock body, but in a different position equal to the amount that the spring was rotated.
~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
Still Bill
Rock Stacker
Gave up on both spacers and pen springs. I need articulation for what I do. Using the soft/soft Capra springs and am pretty happy...As long as I service the shocks every few weeks. But, I also live at elevation (5.200 feet) and often travel to crawling sites ranging from 4,500-7,500 foot elevations which is a huge deal when it comes to bleeding shocks. Shock fluids also vary with the seasonal temperature conditions which vary from 30 - 95 degrees.
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
Just realized, I could have used a better word to describe the spring problem on the front-end. Instead of "warped", I should have said "bowed". I'm still waiting to see if there's any problems with the shocks, themselves. If the shocks probe 'stable', then I'll just get the Element Enduro springs.
If the shocks become a problem, then I'll replace the entire shocks...although, with what, I don't yet know. People keep mentioning these Dravtech shocks being "the best they've even used", but, best I've been able to determine, they don't seem to make them anymore. Can anyone provide any insight?
UPDATE:. Finally found the Dravtech shocks, at dluxfab...but, as I said, still waiting to determine if the stock shocks have any problems.
~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
If the shocks become a problem, then I'll replace the entire shocks...although, with what, I don't yet know. People keep mentioning these Dravtech shocks being "the best they've even used", but, best I've been able to determine, they don't seem to make them anymore. Can anyone provide any insight?
UPDATE:. Finally found the Dravtech shocks, at dluxfab...but, as I said, still waiting to determine if the stock shocks have any problems.
~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
Last edited:
Ghonda99
Quarry Creeper
Dravtech shocks can be purchased through dlux RC fab. https://dluxfab.ecwid.com/#!/Dravtech-3-5inch-shocks/p/83003157/category=6232188 that is one link for the 3.75” length. There are 2 other lengths to choose as well. I do know he is going through a move so shipping may be delayed if you order them.
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
I've seen some others mention) suggest the 3.5in, but you're mentioning the 3.75". I've seen several people suggest 90mm shocks. As the 3.5" is less than 90mm, and the 3.75" is in-between the stock & (suggested/recommended) 90mm length, which (again, if the stock shocks end up having any "problems) would be a better choice for the Capra (ie. 3.5" or 3.75")?
~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
Still Bill
Rock Stacker
Agree with "bowed". Have noticed that issue with mine too.
Researching shocks; but, am not sold on the Dravtec because I like screw-type adjustable collars that can be played with on the fly.
This is a great thread...Keep it up folks.
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
Exactly...and one of the reasons that, when I got my Rustler 4x4 a year ago, one of the first things I did (besides replace the Traxxas servo with a Hitec) was to replace the plastic (garbage) "Ultra" shocks with Pro-Line ProSpec shocks. Although, at least in the case of the Ultra shocks, they do have clip-on "preload" collars (but only in 3 predetermined sizes, this not truly "adjustable").
~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
Except that, when the springs become bowed, the shocks are no longer as efficient. I'd prefer (as I'm sure others would agree) to have 'straight' springs.
~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
PounceTheBear
Newbie
A bit late so there might not be any response. But when trying out different shock setups with springs and oil weight. What's the best approach for going from one oil weight to another?
Right now I am using the stock shock oil, I think it's 25wt. But if I wanted to try say 15 in one and 35 in another. How do I do that? Just drain it and add in the different oil? That won't cause any issues? Or do I need to clean the shock of the old oil somehow?
Right now I am using the stock shock oil, I think it's 25wt. But if I wanted to try say 15 in one and 35 in another. How do I do that? Just drain it and add in the different oil? That won't cause any issues? Or do I need to clean the shock of the old oil somehow?
