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Can Any Brushless Motor Fit In The LNC???
- Thread starter murlin12
- Start date
mrG
Rock Crawler
Super low weight is overrated. I run my LCC at 4lbs 15oz if I remember right. My xr is at 4lbs 14oz. Where you put the weight is what you should be concerned with. Weight bias is paramount. I've found that 62% to 63% front bias works best for me. Get it low of course. Small batteries are a good way to save some weight. (That is one thing I need to do for my LCC).
Mr G is correct, of course. Wheight distribution is more important than the absolute value.
My comp crawler is currently 2.351 kg (5£ 3oz) with battery and the stock body.
Looking at an all stock LNC my weight savers would be:
1. Remove the blue LEDs. They don't add function and can therefore be removed at no expense. (I might keep them for the looks though.)
2. Small and light LiPo battery, placed low at the front. (Can be as low as $10 if you don't need a new charger and make the battery plate yourself.)
3. Lighter body. (<$50 including paint) (My competition body is roughly 2oz less than the stock body.)
4. Replace the motor and ESC with Revolver S Stubby and Tekin RS (less weight) or MMP (less cost) to shave some 2+ oz off the weight. ($200-300)
In total that makes about 10oz less weight to haul around.
Then it's time to add weight at the front axle to get the COG right. I have nearly 14oz of knuckle weights.
The LNC will still be a power hog though, because of the worm drives. There's no way around that fact other than to change axles.
My comp crawler is currently 2.351 kg (5£ 3oz) with battery and the stock body.
Looking at an all stock LNC my weight savers would be:
1. Remove the blue LEDs. They don't add function and can therefore be removed at no expense. (I might keep them for the looks though.)
2. Small and light LiPo battery, placed low at the front. (Can be as low as $10 if you don't need a new charger and make the battery plate yourself.)
3. Lighter body. (<$50 including paint) (My competition body is roughly 2oz less than the stock body.)
4. Replace the motor and ESC with Revolver S Stubby and Tekin RS (less weight) or MMP (less cost) to shave some 2+ oz off the weight. ($200-300)
In total that makes about 10oz less weight to haul around.
Then it's time to add weight at the front axle to get the COG right. I have nearly 14oz of knuckle weights.
The LNC will still be a power hog though, because of the worm drives. There's no way around that fact other than to change axles.
Just for information, I run a 21.5T motor with a 25T pinion on 3S on my LNC.. good top speed, awesome crawling.
But on second thought, I could run a faster motor and a lower pinion to have the same results.. Like a 17.5T and a 20T.
But on second thought, I could run a faster motor and a lower pinion to have the same results.. Like a 17.5T and a 20T.
Okay good info guys! Yea don't worry, most of the weight is in the front! Just got the lipo in the mail yesterday and with the brushed integy 35t and 14t pinion it doesn't change speed, so I'm saving up for the brushless system, and I'm still looking into the gearing the the axles..... Idk but I'm gonna figure this speed thing out! Also some of the Allen bolts on the axle have striped....ugh! So what can I do to get them apart????
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think you'll find a speed difference after some 15 minutes runtime.
Top end when just charged should be similar, but NiMH drop their voltage faster than LiPo.
In theory, yes, but there will be two problems:
1. The drive shafts will have tighter angles since they're attached further down on the AX10 axles.
2. You need to make major changes in the gearbox to gear down by another 10:1 or so. The motor:drive shaft ratio should be roughly 30:1 instead of the ~3:1 used on the LNC.
The LNC can accept a range of 12T to 25T pinion.
So you can halve/double the speed if you want from just from a pinion change..
On one end of the spectrum, you will loose top speed, on the other end, you will loose slow crawling speed.
It's up to you to test the setup and go with what you like!
So you can halve/double the speed if you want from just from a pinion change..
On one end of the spectrum, you will loose top speed, on the other end, you will loose slow crawling speed.
It's up to you to test the setup and go with what you like!
mrG
Rock Crawler
Higher tooth count on the pinion gives more speed, but puts a greater demand on the motor
Hardline
Rock Crawler
Actually, it doesn't quite work that way. If you try every pinion ratio available you will find that one gives the highest top speed. Going with more teeth than that drags down the motor to where speed actually suffers instead of improving. Every car/motor/battery combo will have it's own sweet spot and no one can tell you where yours is. Test
My experience without actually measuring the speed is that there's a range of gearing that provide very similar top speed.
The difference between them is the load (and with that temperature) on the motor.
If you want a crawler don't (initially) worry about top speed!
* A cheap 35T wotor will be good enough for nice and slow crawling with the LNC, and might even produce some short bursts of more speed if ran on 3S battery.
Do use it to learn your rig!
Do check the motor (and worm drive) temps!
* If you then, after a couple of months of driving, want even more top speed for example a (brushed) Traxxas Titan 21T is known to do that at a low cost, while still performing well for slow crawl.
* If that also prove do be insufficient for your slow crawling (staying at ~1mph average speed) you might consider going brushless.
* If you want to increase the average speed you want to get rid of the worm drives instead.
Hardline
Rock Crawler
I agree. If you devise a sensitive speed test and use a digital stopwatch you can definitely pick a single fastest pinion. But as you say, the next smaller gear or two will be nearly as fast and probably a better choice unless top speed is a priority. In which case you shouldn't have chosen a Losi.
