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bilinvic's SCX10.2 Build Ver. 2

Thanxs Brian. Hopefully the finished version will be as nice as I envision it!!!! I have the ROC412 1800kV motor powered by 3S on my other 10.2 and I wanted just a bit more oomph and I figured the HH PP 2200kV motor would be right where I want it with 3S. I have been eyeballing the Wertymade bumpers, but there's very few photos of them mounted up and it's very important to me that whatever bumper I do go with is that it's tucked up close to the body.
 
Electronics are in. Brief recap:

MMP
HH Puller Pro 2200kV Standard
Castle 10a BEC
Spektrum SR201 RX
Xpert HV WR-7701 Brushless Servo

The BEC is in the integrated rx box and is connected to the ESC power leads with a mini JST connector.

From initial bench testing with 3S power, the HH PP 2200kV motor has plenty of get-up-and-go (gearing is stock 15t / 56t). "thumbsup"

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Not much to report for updates yet, although I did receive the Freqeskinz wrap. This is the first one I have ordered and I'm very impressed with what I see; I'm looking forward to getting it applied to the SR5 cab. I'm waiting on a Wertymade SCX10 II Stubby Flattop Stinger front bumper to arrive before I ream the body post holes and paint the underside of the cab so I can ensure everything is going to fit and line up properly.
 
Factory Team 35w was used for the front shocks along with the white stripe springs, 60w for the rears with the yellow stripe springs

Hey Bill, did you reverse the springs from there stock placement (yellow front & white rear)?

Also in your post #37 picture #4 of the front end, what did you use to attach the panhard link to the frame rail? because it's not stock. :)

~D
 
Thanxs Brian. Hopefully the finished version will be as nice as I envision it!!!! I have the ROC412 1800kV motor powered by 3S on my other 10.2 and I wanted just a bit more oomph and I figured the HH PP 2200kV motor would be right where I want it with 3S. I have been eyeballing the Wertymade bumpers, but there's very few photos of them mounted up and it's very important to me that whatever bumper I do go with is that it's tucked up close to the body.

I really like my Wertymade bumpers as far as build quality but I guess he really didn't design them for the ii chassis. I still haven't got my rear bumper on due to needing to make some aluminum mounts. I got the boar bumper and the stout rear bumper.
 
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Hey Bill, did you reverse the springs from there stock placement (yellow front & white rear)?

Also in your post #37 picture #4 of the front end, what did you use to attach the panhard link to the frame rail? because it's not stock. :)

~D

Yes, the springs are purposely reversed. The Panhard link mount is stock, no mods!!!

I really like my Wertymade bumpers as far as build quality but I guess he really didn't design them for the ii chassis. I still haven't got my rear bumper on due to needing to make some aluminum mounts. I got the boar bumper and the stout rear bumper.

This one says it's specifically designed for the 10.2 - hopefully it will fit good.
 
I received the Wertmade bumper; looks to be a very nice and sturdy bumper...hopefully it will withstand some punishment!!! The only downside is that the 3 holes per side don't align with the frame holes on the 10.2 frame. If I used the rearmost holes on the bumper that the battery carrier also utilizes, the bumper would be tilted too far forward which would not be very favorable with the approach angle. When using the forward 2 holes I can get the bumper aligned in a much more upright position but the battery bolt holes cannot be used because the holes do not line up (not even close either). Out came the Dremel cut-off wheel and I cut the rearmost holes off so I can use the forward bolt holes as well as the middle elongated bolt holes and then I can get the battery bolts back in. Not a big deal, but I hate having to modify a brand metal part that's been powder-coated. When all is said and done, the bumper is exactly what I wanted and looks great.

With the bumper mounted, I could finally get the body aligned and the body mount holes reamed.

I added some custom "links" to the truggy frame so that the body can be tilted up for quick and easy battery changes out on the rocks. I only have to use two body clips on the hood. The rear mount holes in the bed's aluminum plate are simply for ensuring the body stays aligned. It's a very slick design if I don't say so myself!!!

I also mounted a RC4WD fuel cell between the chassis rails.

Now it's finally time to get the body painted black on the inside and get the Freqeskinz wrap applied. Hopefully this weekend.

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I see you are using jato ends to cheat out the WB in the rear, Ive done the same in the past and it works but Ive broken 3-4 of them over the years. Might want to keep a spare with you when out crawling. Truck looks great like all your builds 8)
 
Wow great job. I'm in the final stages of my v2 Chevy honcho build and this is inspiring me to finish.
 
I see you are using jato ends to cheat out the WB in the rear, Ive done the same in the past and it works but Ive broken 3-4 of them over the years. Might want to keep a spare with you when out crawling. Truck looks great like all your builds 8)

I always do...they are easy to change out on the trail if necessary.
 
The interior of the cab is now painted black (Tamiya PS-5). I'm hoping to get started on the wrap later today.

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WHOA!!! Applying a full body wrap when you are OCD aka perfectionist, is a very testing procedure....just sayin'!
 
I can finally reveal which Freqeskinz wrap I bought.....SR5 Rust Bucket series, medium blue with silver stripes.

I'm loving how it came out.

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Getting closer to the first test run....

I currently have .350 SLW hubs on the Method wheels and I have some .225 on order to see if I like the stance better or not.

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