Yeah, I gave the stock tires a try for a while, even swapped foams with some nice CI lil novas and while they did very well on dry rock they were pretty bad everywhere else. Rock Beasts and Hyraxes are phenomenally better everywhere. There's not enough void in the tread on the stockers and the compound isn't the best compared to PL's G8 or PitBull's Alien compound. "Good enough" tires are not good enough for me.
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Biggest SINGLE upgrade
- Thread starter shortdog1007
- Start date
Traxxas 2362. They will be very tight. Use green slime and do not use the little black spacer. Just a blue xring on top and a stock orange o-ring on bottom. Use plenty of green slime between and on bottom of rings. I used the red ring to help push the squishy blue xring in. Good luck.
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ajsmcs
Quarry Creeper
Which do you prefer between the two - Hyrax or Rock Beast?
rc2000
Rock Crawler
Thanks, appreciate the info.
Between the two, it's very close performance wise. Now that I've got both pretty well broken in, it feels like the Hyraxes are just a bit better and I think it's do to all the extra siping on the lugs. The Hyraxes just have so many biting edges that they seems to grab a little better on slick rock.
ajsmcs
Quarry Creeper
Size-wise how do the two compare with the stock tires? The Hyraxes look huge in the pictures, but its hard for me to gauge without seeing them in person.
I agree, tires need time to break in, they are nut "mud" tires (ie. muddy wet leaves, Vaterra or Proline TSLs work great for this), but all tires need time to break in. Good links/ends info (SSD makes nice parts), thansk for all the part numbers, tutorial, etc. "thumbsup"
Nice. "thumbsup"
Rock Beast work very well and look good (and scale) this matters to me. Hyrax look like comp crawler tires, not my slice of pie...thanks.
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shortdog1007
Newbie
This has been a great thread, I recently got the scx10 II build kit, I am using this thread to build my truck. It's great to get real world experience to gather information. I have not even started the build yet. I am still building my parts list. I look at the box EVERY DAY and just want to start building it, it's killing me just sitting there. If I were to build it now then order the parts I would not want to take it off the road to upgrade it. I will be compiling my order list tonight. I will post my list and see what the community thinks I should add/change to the build. Money is not really an issue with me but I don't want to spend 200.00 for a part when a 50.00 part would give me the same results.
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ajsmcs
Quarry Creeper
Psh. It's gonna take you a few hours for all of the mechanical assembly, and the better part of a Saturday to trim, mask, and paint the body. I say just build the darn thing if that's what you want to do.
IMO, get a good set of hex drivers if you don't have any. I used my fairly nice set of balldrivers when doing mine, and I severely regretted it. It takes more axial force (no pun intended) and more torque to initially tap the screws into the plastic than you'd normally experience on a screw that size, and balldrivers (especially tiny 1.5 and 2mm ones) just don't like to stay seated. Flat-ended hex drivers are waaaaaaaay better on a build like this.
shortdog1007
Newbie
Yeah I learned that on one of my traxxas upgrades. I bought a good set of hex drivers.
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Hyraxes and RBXLs are huge for a 1.9 tire. They're both right at 4.9-5 inches tall with foams and mounted. I've seen a couple pics now with both of those mounted under the 10.2 XJ body and I think they look fantastic. The XJ body is huge. I run both under my much smaller Axial Spawn body with a 12inch wheelbase and they still look great and clear no problem.
Stock tires are actually quite impressive. Don't underestimate them. They just require a lot of break in. The first thing I would definately upgrade is the link ends. It would be my first so you can do it while assembling the kit first go round. It is a very cheap upgrade and it will save you wrench time later. With 53 hrs on my rig, every link and shock connection is completely gone. It's a pain in the arse to replace them all. Here is your solution on the cheap.
Parts list to complete the job:
2 - SSD00116 m4/m3 rod ends 3.99
1 - SSD00020 m3 rod ends 3.99
1 - axa1331 axial metal balls 6.99
2 - axa8081 1.9 8 hole beadlocks 15.99
2 - SSD00151 1.5mm spacer 4.99
18 - 1.5mm nylon spacers 2.00 total
Use the ssd00116 rod ends on all links except drag link. You will need to use a 1.5mm spacer. SSD makes one, but it's not available yet. I just used black 1.5mm nylon spacers I found at my local family center. I had to drill out the spacers with a 5/32 bit. They were only 11 pennies each, so very cheap.
Use axa1331 on the drag link rod ends to replace the plastic balls and keep the bent axial rod ends. This will give you best turning radius.
Next use the axa1331 balls in your shock caps. This will hopefully make them last longer. When they wear out, you will have to take apart the shocks just to replace the worn out shock mount. Lastly you will need to use ssd00020 rod ends to replace the stock ends on the shocks. Yes you will have. To cut them down by about 1.5-2mm. They have to be the same length as stock from center of eye to threaded portion the shock shaft goes into. This will make your truck significantly more consistent and reliable. These are the problems I have run into in about 2 weeks of use. This is one of the best rigs out of the package. Oh, and beadlocks are a must. Axial makes a great beadlock on the cheap. If you want to spend a few bones more you can get into some of SSD'S steel d-hole beadlocks.
D HOLE BLACK
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Motorider, are those the stock links or another brand? Looking at the pics I think they are the SSD links but I'm not sure. So what's the consensus on which brand of links to use--stock, SSD, or Incision?
I was going to keep my stock links and upgrade to metal balls now but now I'm thinking I'd like to have the extra weight down low of the stainless links.
Like one of the other posters said in this thread I'm putting my parts list together now and will be ordering soon. "thumbsup"
Those links you saw are the SSD links. I just wanted the lower links for $20, but black Friday was tough since rpp sold out of the lowers only. So I bought the whole kit. I think the SSD links are heavier and look better with the machined ends. All I was truly after was to lower CoG. There is nothing wrong with the stock kit links. The incision links are nice and I really want the bent drag link they have in their kit. That is the only advantage I see the incision having and it's not worth the 40 dollar premium in my opinion.
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The bigger advantage of the Incision kit is threaded links which make length adjustment possible without the need for spacers and they are much stronger than set screws. I'll never buy links that use set screws again. I gave the kit links a try and they're awful. They stick like Velcro on rocks too.
Some pictures of my now completed truck. I'm just waiting on my hyrax tires. I just got the shocks in 2 hours ago. 30wt 2 hole pistons in front with 2.75" 2.0 lb springs. The rear is fitted with 50 wt 2 hole pistons (I may change to 3 hole) with 2.75" 1.4 lb springs. Ride height has been reduced due to the sag in suspension. This should prove helpful for sidehilling. I added the SSD d hole steel wheels and the link kit from SSD. All ends are ssd with nylon spacers. Only stock ends are on the drag link and they are fitted with axial steel balls. I still have my beef patties to get installed. I will wait until I'm done tuning to see fit them. So far I have gone from 6lb 2oz stock with battery and body to 6lb 6.8oz with mods. So a little almost 5 Oz down low.
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Please enlighten me more on the threaded links. I'm not sure I fully understand. Thanks.
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I have had good luck with voodoo vxl tires with proline dual density foams. .have crawled in Montana and Missouri with them and they work well . Takes a few batteries to break them in ..What tires don't work on rocks that look like sandpaper? Imex? tamiya?
They don't work here
Or here
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VP stainless or titanium links have the threads machined onto the ends of the link and are part of the link itself as opposed to SSD, Axial, or many others that internally thread a "pipe" then you use separate set screws to attach the rod end to the link. The only way to adjust the length on that type is to use spacers. With a threaded link like VP makes or the 10.2 RTR steel links, you simply give the rod end a twist our two in or out until it's the perfect length. No removing rod ends or set screws completely to install or remove washers or spacers then finding out it's not the right length and repeating. Having the threads as part of the link is also much stronger than set screws and you never have to worry about loosening or breaking off a set screw inside the pipe. I've seen many set screw type links fail but I've only seen maybe one or two threaded links fail and those were subjected to abusive type driving.
