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Biggest SINGLE upgrade

shortdog1007

Newbie
Joined
Dec 3, 2016
Messages
21
Location
US
Question, what would be your SINGLE greatest upgrade on an SCX10 II be and why?

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I haven't finished my kit yet, but I'm putting it together with a different front bumper, and beadlocks. I figured the biggest complete is the stock bumper, and I figured the next upgrade will be tires, didn't want to mess with glue...


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none needed really, but if anything; smaller bumpers.

^This is close but bumpers come off easy enough. Only thing actually needed is aluminum servo horn but then you'll need a servo if you have the rtr tsx45 in it because it's going next.
 
Wheels, tires, tires, servo horn and do something with the front shovel. Oh I mean front bumper.
 
Stock tires are actually quite impressive. Don't underestimate them. They just require a lot of break in. The first thing I would definately upgrade is the link ends. It would be my first so you can do it while assembling the kit first go round. It is a very cheap upgrade and it will save you wrench time later. With 53 hrs on my rig, every link and shock connection is completely gone. It's a pain in the arse to replace them all. Here is your solution on the cheap.

Parts list to complete the job:

2 - SSD00116 m4/m3 rod ends 3.99
1 - SSD00020 m3 rod ends 3.99
1 - axa1331 axial metal balls 6.99
2 - axa8081 1.9 8 hole beadlocks 15.99
2 - SSD00151 1.5mm spacer 4.99
18 - 1.5mm nylon spacers 2.00 total

Use the ssd00116 rod ends on all links except drag link. You will need to use a 1.5mm spacer. SSD makes one, but it's not available yet. I just used black 1.5mm nylon spacers I found at my local family center. I had to drill out the spacers with a 5/32 bit. They were only 11 pennies each, so very cheap.
2aca94683e6e4129aabe639241b936b9.jpg

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Use axa1331 on the drag link rod ends to replace the plastic balls and keep the bent axial rod ends. This will give you best turning radius.

Next use the axa1331 balls in your shock caps. This will hopefully make them last longer. When they wear out, you will have to take apart the shocks just to replace the worn out shock mount. Lastly you will need to use ssd00020 rod ends to replace the stock ends on the shocks. Yes you will have. To cut them down by about 1.5-2mm. They have to be the same length as stock from center of eye to threaded portion the shock shaft goes into. This will make your truck significantly more consistent and reliable. These are the problems I have run into in about 2 weeks of use. This is one of the best rigs out of the package. Oh, and beadlocks are a must. Axial makes a great beadlock on the cheap. If you want to spend a few bones more you can get into some of SSD'S steel d-hole beadlocks.

http://www.ssd-rc.com/d-hole-black.html


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Stock tires are actually quite impressive. Don't underestimate them. They just require a lot of break in. The first thing I would definately upgrade is the link ends. It would be my first so you can do it while assembling the kit first go round. It is a very cheap upgrade and it will save you wrench time later. With 53 hrs on my rig, every link and shock connection is completely gone. It's a pain in the arse to replace them all. Here is your solution on the cheap.

The stock tires work(ish) on dry rock, but so does everything else.
 
What tires don't work on rocks that look like sandpaper? Imex? tamiya?


They don't work here
20150103_144526_zps0b2606ad.jpg


Or here
20160922_135555_zpsktait10m.jpg
 
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