Bgredjeep Bomber build recap

[bgredjeep]

Thanks guys. I honestly haven't even driven the car but a few seconds since I got the new axles installed. It's ready to go, I've just been working on getting my 1:1 crawler ready for some trips now that my back is finally healed up enough to ride again.

I'll try to get out soon and get some pics of it not on the bench.

 

[bgredjeep]

I finally got the bomber out for a drive a couple weekends ago. It worked great with the ryft axles. I jumped it a bunch of times and it took it just fine. Of course I didn't get any pics.

Anyway, that got my wheels turning for bomber parts again so I made a couple new items. First, I reworked my mini backhalf to let me mount the axial sway bar at the rear of the chassis. I like it back there more, plus it works better with the ryft axles due to the width of the link mounts.

Next, I changed up my skid plate design. I ditched the printed upper link mounts in favor of aluminum side plates which let me add a lot of adjustability. I printed the new skid and a template for the side plates. I transferred the template to .090 6061 aluminum.

 

[bgredjeep]

Got both of these added to thingiverse this evening.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5541178

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5216376

 

[Steve g]

So beautiful. Ever think of moving the transmission over to better center the weight and straighten the driveshafts? Or is there no room with the 2 speed?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[bgredjeep]

So beautiful. Ever think of moving the transmission over to better center the weight and straighten the driveshafts? Or is there no room with the 2 speed?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Thanks Steve. I did move the trans over 5mm on this one compared to my previous design. In my case, the receiver box I'm running was the limiting factor. The trans is right against it now. Without that I could go another 5mm out before the trans case is going to be getting into the side plate.

I just double checked and the front link mounts would be the next problem for moving it more than a few mm further out as you can see in the pic below.

The driveshaft would probably be pretty straight on as it is with ar60s. The pinion is close to 1/2" further to the side on the ryft axles.

 

[bgredjeep]

Well, I sent it a little too hard today and took out a link. Took it off a portable skate ramp to about 6' a few times, but the last one i landed too much on the nose and it was all over.

I've straightened the thread on these incision links a few times already so I went ahead and ordered some titanium links to replace the lowers.

 

[bgredjeep]

Dlux links came in today. Let's see if the 3/16 titanium holds up better than the incision stainless.

 

[bgredjeep]

Had the bomber out on the rc track again this weekend. Ended up 2wd again. Lol

I'm pretty sure I must have damaged the ears on the front driveshaft when I broke the suspension a few weeks ago and it just blew apart completely on Sunday after a few minutes.

Also, my nsdrc rs100 micro is dead. It acted up the last time I was out (just not responding), but I pulled it to check and it started working again. Figured it was just a loose connection. Sunday it wouldn't work again. I ended up swapping it to channel 1 just to test since my steering was working fine and still nothing. Ordered a different servo, and I guess I'll see how their warranty is to get this one replaced or repaired. Not that I have a need for a second micro shift servo.

 

[bgredjeep]

After review, the yoke that failed was definitely cracked after the previous crash. I can even see the crack in the picture above with the broken link and confirmed that's where it broke Sunday. I thought it was a casting mark, but apparently not. Got that fixed after work yesterday. Just waiting on the new shift servo and this will be ready to go again.

 

[bgredjeep]

Back to 100% now. Trans is shifting, and driveshafts are driving. I'll test it out in the new year after I'm back from vacation.

 

[bgredjeep]

Haven't done anything with this rig in a while. I've had it out a time or 2 and it's worked fine. New update today is a wheel swap that happened. Rocking bronze wheels on the Bomber now. Otherwise unchanged and ready to rip.

 

[bgredjeep]

I haven't driven this car in months, but its getting some love.

I picked up some proline xl foams to hopefully make it a little more stable at speed. I also took the time to trim some tread on the scorpios for more dig in loose dirt. It's ready to hit the trail again soon.

Here's how it started

Trimmed. Weight was not a consideration when I started, but I did weigh the rubber I cut off out of curiosity. Came out to 8 grams per tire.

 

[bgredjeep]

Just like all my other cars, this one got scale hardware. Took a little extra effort for this one since I didn't remember that the ssd ryft wheel adapters use m2.5 hardware. I drilled and tapped them to m3 to match the lug nuts I had ordered. The result is worth it.

 

[xwaz]

The Ryft axles under the bomber seem like a great way to go! Mine ryft has been bulletproof and I am waiting for my bomber to give up the ghost.

 

[bgredjeep]

It's Miller time!

This finally came in today. I'm planning to swap all the bomber parts into this chassis for a new look. I've been a Miller Motorsports fan for a while so I'm excited for the change.

 

[themountain]

Thats exiting...I follow this thread since the beginning...awesome!

 

[Mopar man]

I'll be watching
How's your 1:1 crawler doing were you able to make some trips with it this summer? I must say that's a badass set up you got there tow rig,camper,trailer and jeep have to look killer just rolling down the road.

 

[bgredjeep]

I'll be watching
How's your 1:1 crawler doing were you able to make some trips with it this summer? I must say that's a badass set up you got there tow rig,camper,trailer and jeep have to look killer just rolling down the road.

I only got out a couple times this summer since it's so hot. I broke the transfer case pretty good in September (guys think rc is expensive). It's all back together now, I just need to rework the carrier bearing on the front driveshaft and it'll be ready to ride again.

Here's what a $1500 parts failure looks like (ok, technically $1000, but I upgraded the front output shaft while I had it apart)

 

[bgredjeep]

Thats exiting...I follow this thread since the beginning...awesome!

Thanks man. I've made some progress, and found 1 somewhat significant issue to resolve so far.

The chassis went together pretty easily. I did download the manual as some of the parts weren't clear of how they connected. The bomber skid plate didn't take much effort to sort out and match the new chassis. I widened the design by 4mm, extended the rear on the sides a bit for the rear mounting point (to the cage), and added the center mount hole. I had a friend print the skid on his bambu (1.5hrs vs 5 on mine). I was able to reuse the side plates. I also made some small sleeves to fill the mount points in the cage.

The only problem so far, and the reason it's not a roller yet, is the rear shock mounts. Apparently the lower link mounts on the Miller axles are ridiculously wide. Even with the ryft axles there's no way the shocks are going to mount on the trailing arms as it sits. I did some quick measurements and I need to move the upper mount points in about 20mm per side to match more closely to the bomber chassis.

I ordered some aluminum tube to make the new cross bars for the shock mounts (I'll use the included upper mounts). I'll have to cut one section of tube from the chassis for clearance and it should be good to go. I'm sure I'll have some issues to resolve with the sway bar as well, but I'll get there in turn.

Here's some pics of the chassis side by side with the Bomber chassis, and progress shots.

New skid with the original side mounted

Front shocks barely clear the chassis. I'll probably trim the spot that's close (next to the shock body) slightly just in case

Here's the shock issue. The fix should be easy, just waiting on material before I start cutting

 

[Fallen]

Sweet!

The RTR Miller Motorsports is fairly light. With a smaller transmission, less electronics and no shifting junk, you may end up with a pretty light rig.