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best value drive shafts

steven318is

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
340
Location
ireland
hi again what would be the best value drive shafts with 5mm mounting to run on 2s and brushless i need four shafts for one rig thanks
 
are they as tuff as peple say? not too shure on lenght yet i have a t case on the way from russia, the wheel base should be around 12.5 to 13 inches its on a vaterra ascender frame and mini revo transmissions with drive shaft adapters that i had made. how about solid couplers for the trans to t case like the tf2 any one had any problems with slid couplers
 
are they as tuff as peple say? not too shure on lenght yet i have a t case on the way from russia, the wheel base should be around 12.5 to 13 inches its on a vaterra ascender frame and mini revo transmissions with drive shaft adapters that i had made. how about solid couplers for the trans to t case like the tf2 any one had any problems with slid couplers

Pretty hard to break. If you're really worried get a rebuild kit. The pin and the joint on mine are real sloppy after a few years of hammer down abuse, but I have yet to break them. My brother and I have had issues with our Junfacs losing pins, but havent broken them either.
 
had considered the axial wb8 hd shafts found a set for 30 dollars delivered. but it seems the mip are my best bet so
 
MIP if you're okay spending, Traxxas shafts if you're on a tight budget. RC4WD steel punishers (original or rebuildable, not the V3) or Junfacs if you want a more scale appearance.
 
I run MIP's. I've lost more pins due to the joint getting hot and melting the red loctite than I've outright broken. I did break one bell but I'm sure it was due to a pin sliding out.

I need to try maxx shafts one of these days. I have all the parts to do it, I just need to find the time.
 
i had the maxx shafts from the emax on my other crawler found them hanging on every thing also i use the 2.5 maxx shafts on the rear of my racing slash 4x4 with the emaxx diff never had a problem with them on that but just wanted something bolt on this time for my new rig"thumbsup"
 
Best bang for ur $$$ is definitely JUNFAC. MIPs are Great but way over priced. JunFac are just as good an a 1/4 of the price.
 
Axial WB HD shafts are very durable. I have blown up many other parts of my SCX10's drivetrain and the center shafts are still going strong.
 
SSD00077-3T.jpg


SSD makes these. I have no experience with them but they look tough and scale.
 
Axial HD WB's for $22 from RPP salvage yard. I've got a set of them on my wraith that has a tekin 6.5T 550 short course system in it.. It's seen a healthy dose of 3s and I've broken VP shafts and a ton of hex pins but the drive shafts are in perfect condition. That says a lot.
 
Axial HD WB's for $22 from RPP salvage yard. I've got a set of them on my wraith that has a tekin 6.5T 550 short course system in it.. It's seen a healthy dose of 3s and I've broken VP shafts and a ton of hex pins but the drive shafts are in perfect condition. That says a lot.
I have twisted those like a candy cane a few times. My experience mip is the best way to go. There not bulletproof, but as close as you can get.
 
Of you get mip shafts use dry silicone spray lube then put heat shrink over the set screw area over lap it a bit to help it stay in place.
 
Just get MIP's. Don't skimp on driveshafts, it can ruin a whole day of wheeling. Get the AX10 (no dig) length and you'll save money.

This is what I do. And mainly from previous advice by the gentleman I quoting. I end up with the larger pin to grind down to size and only spend 35+ instead of 45+ for wraith mips
 
I run the JunFac shafts in my wraith, liked them so much I ordered a set to put into my tuber that I built. Can usually find them on Amazon or eBay for around 30 dollars for a set.
 
I used MAXX shafts on my 1/6th Jeep, it's a 13lb pig that goes nice and slow. I usually get a few years out of a set before the splines start to twist.
 
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