beefier front steering linkage?

[Spence]

Hi guys, I'm kind of between trying to setup my bomber so the steering linkage goes behind the front axle or to come up with a tough steering linkage. Regardless the servo and especially the steering linkage are very vulnerable.

I've bent a few, and they always bend at the threads on the rod ends. the servo af servo saver seems to be doing its job to stop this truck from eating servo horns. Currently running the vanquish stainless steering link.

I'm just curious what you guys suggest?


Thanks
-Spence

 

[HumboldtEF]

What are the rod ends threaded for M3 or M4? M4 is probably the largest that would work with off the shelf parts, VP should be M4.

I'm sorry to say I dont think theres a good solution to this beyond just driving with more mechanical sympathy. Please take this with a grain of salt, I'm not trying to blame you by any means. I've got a wraith that gets bashed and I busted maybe 2 or 3 servos just ramming stuff head on. A few things resolved this, I stopped bashing around things I could hit easily (basically my backyard) and I started to be more careful when I was bashing. Never bent steering links I just toasted a few servos. After changing my habits it still has a working servo.

You could try a thicker link and rod end combo (though for using m3 mounting hardware I dont know that it exists) or maybe coming up with something that can sleeve together the rod ends to the link. Though I would only assume that on big hits you'd just be moving the damage down the line to the next weakest link. Next it may be broken knuckles or C hubs.

Last ditch idea would be throwing a stock plastic link on, it will just give and should take a ton of abuse before snapping. You're already giving up some steering authority with a servo saver so whats a little more right /S

EDIT: Dlux Fab does make a few items that could help. Their Sporty truss puts the servo much lower and behind the axle, it should be much safer there. https://dluxfab.com/AR60-Wraith-Truss-Sporty-Version-p92268224

You could also add their knuckles which locate the steering link a bit higher depending on how much caster you add (looks like maybe 1/2" or so). https://dluxfab.com/Knuckles-Dlux-p83364230

Oh and you could orient the bend in the steering link upwards instead of forward for slightly more clearance.

 

[HumboldtEF]

Never seen this before but a random google search brought this up. AR60 BTA linkage but the servo stays put so its still a bit vulnerable. You'll have to translate the page as its all in German.

https://www.crawlster.de/ctl-4wd-infos/

 

[89Industries]

My solution was to use the SSD titanium steering links.
M4 Titanium Steering Links for Wraith/RR10/SMT10

The incision/vanquish links are very thick steel then neck down to M4 threads at the rod ends. When you hit something the links bend the threads because they are the weakest part. Nearly impossible to bend it back, especially out in the field.

The SSD links are thinner, bendier material and use steel set screws threaded into the link and rod end. When you bash into something the actual link bends in the middle, but it's easy to bend it back to shape, even when you're out driving it. Generally no new parts to buy.

You can also orient the rod ends on the drag link and use some small o-rings to get the drag link to kind of angle up a bit. This both protects it a bit and places it closer to the steering link so they both hit the object spreading the load a bit.

 

[Gula]

Make something out of flatbar. I have a clodbuster bta kit and the steering link is just a flat piece of steel, contoured to the geometry needed. Make sense?

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Never seen this before but a random google search brought this up. AR60 BTA linkage but the servo stays put so its still a bit vulnerable. You'll have to translate the page as its all in German.

https://www.crawlster.de/ctl-4wd-infos/

That has always looked cool, but never found a review on it.

My solution was to use the SSD titanium steering links.
M4 Titanium Steering Links for Wraith/RR10/SMT10

The incision/vanquish links are very thick steel then neck down to M4 threads at the rod ends. When you hit something the links bend the threads because they are the weakest part. Nearly impossible to bend it back, especially out in the field.

The SSD links are thinner, bendier material and use steel set screws threaded into the link and rod end. When you bash into something the actual link bends in the middle, but it's easy to bend it back to shape, even when you're out driving it. Generally no new parts to buy.

You can also orient the rod ends on the drag link and use some small o-rings to get the drag link to kind of angle up a bit. This both protects it a bit and places it closer to the steering link so they both hit the object spreading the load a bit.

Welcome to the site! The SSD stuff is always nice.

You can get the SSD version or the entire link set from Vanquish below. Boom Racing has a cheap version, but I don't expect it to be as durable.

https://www.vanquishproducts.com/incision-rr10-bomber-1-4-stainless-steel-8pcs-link-kit/

https://www.boomracing.com/axial/rr...ts/aluminum-steering-linkage-gun-metal-110022

 

[89Industries]

Thanks for the welcome, been lurking and absorbing info for a bit but I had first hand experience with this issue so I felt I could chime in and help.

T
You can get the SSD version or the entire link set from Vanquish below. Boom Racing has a cheap version, but I don't expect it to be as durable.

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The issue with the vanquish links is they bend at the threads making them non-repairable. Poor stress distribution. Not a lot of thought going into the engineering by just making a big 1/4" thick rod with tiny little 4mm threads which is even smaller diameter at the thread root. They would be better off making them completely out of 4mm diameter material (or better yet, slightly smaller than 4mm with rolled threads instead of cut).

And Vanquish no longer lists the 3/16" titanium version, though they may have the same issue since they still neck down to m4 threads at each end.

The SSD links are titanium with steel set screws. The size difference of rod to thread is still there but the titanium isn't as stiff as the steel so it bends first. And you can use a couple rocks to bend it back if needed.

The Boom Racing version is neat but I agree likely not as durable being aluminum and also since they are non-length adjustable you can't adjust toe-in/out of the wheels nor fine tune the length of steering link to get your servo centered just right without needing to use the tx trim function.

 

[broadside]

linkages are still cheaper than a servo. i kind of see them as disposable when it comes to the alternative of replacing/rebuilding a servo

 

[durok]

It's a bummer when the aftermarket drops support for once-popular vehicles...:sad:

The best Bomber/Wraith steering links (imho) were those from JEC Racing - but I just checked their site and it seems that they have moved away from the bigger/burlier rigs.

American_machine_works_ohio also used to sell nice ones on eBay.

I have a set of each, the JEC links are on my current Bomber build, and whenever I get around to it, the American Machine Works set will go on my second build that will be based on my Xtreme Racing carbon fiber chassis rails. They both use Traxxas Revo rod-ends.

I don't have a pic handy of the steering links, but here's the rest of what JEC used to make for the Bomber - CRAZY overbuilt!

 

[diezel666]

linkages are still cheaper than a servo. i kind of see them as disposable when it comes to the alternative of replacing/rebuilding a servo

Considering the price of servos, and replacement gears for them. Same, I see the linkages as a fusible link that saves me a lot of grief.