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Axial SCX10 "1.5" Defender 90

Downfall

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
207
Location
San Diego
Axial SCX10 Defender 90

So, long time listener, first time caller. I bought a Axial Scx10 in 2015 and have enjoyed it. I started upgrading it recently and now it has:

New frame thicker steel
3 link front suspension with pan hard
4 link rear suspension with cantilever
Metal axle housings
Custom aluminum rear links to shorten wheel base
All aluminum frame braces throughout
Plus more parts on the way.

Anyways, I bought a defender 90 body off ebay a few years ago but never got around to doing anything with it.

So I decided to upgrade my axial to a "II" model minus new two speed trans (do not want it atm).

I watched a bunch of youtube instruction videos and came to this forum for ideas, tips, tricks, etc. I bought a bunch of styrene and well, enjoy.

So first I upgraded the right side steering to left hand steering.
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Re: Axial SCX10 "1.5" Defender 90

So then I started cutting up my Defender 90 body, nothing to it but to do it[emoji27] but, no guts, no glory...right?

Anyways, like I said, bought this body a few years ago and had it on hand, no new cost to me, so....

I anways wanted a Defender pick up, so I decided to convert mine, all hand made, no 3D printing (do not have one).

So I cut off the suv shell off the rear and started fabbing up parts.

I used the top right/left side back window frames cut in half and glued together for r/l pick up cab windows. I used the rear suv door window for cab rear window. I also filled in the sunroof as I did not want this feature.

My first attempts:
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More work on the pick up cab and rear bed area. I cut fenders and added my dingo fender flares.
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Have a lot of sanding to do, but it has taken shape.

Stat tuned, more to come.

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Still need to sand and shape a bit. Hit it with light primer coat to see imperfections in between photos.

This is going to mostly be a trail truck with some light rock crawling.

A pic inside cab to see bracing will clean that up later. Also i used the plastic heat weld method to blend cab roof. I used a soldering iron with flat tip and "welded" new plastic into the seams to fill gaps.

Once cool, it forms one solid piece of plastic, strong. I then used car bondo to smooth all inperfections.

Btw, bondo is a pita to sand on small rc, what are you guys using that is easier to work with?
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Nice....

I also have one...been sitting on a shelf and thought of doing this exact same thing. I don’t have any experience with cutting, modifying, or fabbing a hard body.....always wanted to try. You are not afraid "thumbsup"

I’m watching this....

Did you shorten the chassis at all?

Nice work downfall...want to do another? :mrgreen:
 
To right, forgot to mention that. Yes, I had to cut some material off of the rear fame rails. I do not remember the exact measurement unfortunately, but was approximately 1/2" or so. I am also using an after market frame rail set, so the original length might be a little different than factory.

Anyways, this is how I wanted mine to sit.

Now I need to start hacking up the interior to fit over the Axial trans. I have front motor mounts, etc. But I want this to be a challenge and adapt the hard body and interior for practice. In for a penny, in for a pound. [emoji1787]
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Re: Axial SCX10 "1.5" Defender 90

So hollowed out bottom of the interior and cut rear section off so the interior will fit in the cab.

Once glue is dry I'll take some pics from the topside to show how I incorporated the interior to cover the holes I made for the Axial SCX10 transmission.
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Re: Axial SCX10 "1.5" Defender 90

I'll save the rear end interior for another project, you never know.
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Just hit the cab with a darker primer, fml; still a few small spots to sand and fill.[emoji35]


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Still working on interior needs sanding, some filling with putty, etc.

So I added a two cup holder, extended the center console to make room for axial trans.
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And this is all the room that hollowing out the interior buys you to stuff the trans mission underneath it.

Also, had to shave the top screwhole off transmission dirt cover to better fit everything.
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So, filled in all misc holes and gas tank mold, moving gas tank left side of truck...America man.

Decided to do bed in all diamond plating. Need to do detail work now inside bed.
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Started interior in earnest now. Painted, started detail painting. Upholstery the seats and center console in faux leather.

I will destress it to show wear / age and dry brush the interior for the same effect of wear.

Glue is drying, hence tape. I will load better pics tomorrow.
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I like the desert sand color "thumbsup"
I have been struggling with how high mine sits after trying to clear the interior, I notice yours is a bit high also. I don’t want to cut up any of this....

Waiting to see what you can do with yours....
 
I like the desert sand color "thumbsup"
I have been struggling with how high mine sits after trying to clear the interior, I notice yours is a bit high also. I don’t want to cut up any of this....

Waiting to see what you can do with yours....

I will lower it later once all my parts come in and I see where everything is going to be placed, etc. ATM, I just was worried about suspension being level while fabbing body, interior up.
 
Re: Axial SCX10 "1.5" Defender 90

So, my dog does not like to be left alone in car long. He starts to chew on things.

And since this older vehicle and not restored had to add a little wear and tear; dirt and grime.
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Ok, so filled in divets, etc. With Tamiya Putty. Omg, so much easier to work with than bondo. Did some more sanding than primed entire body. Still a few small rough areas to resand, but otherwise I am happy.

Now I need to get some more khaki tan color to spray entire body, inside and out. Not sure if going to do roof same tan, or make it white. Seems 50/50 painted in the real world on pickup models. Thoughts or opinions on that?

I also cut out front grill and all vent holes so I can do detailed wire mesh vents. Also finished putting in the diamond plate pickup bed, just need to detail that also.

Deciding on making a tailgate and running spare on bumper, or having spare in bed sticking out the absent tailgate area.

Any feed back, ideas appreciated.
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