Axial 1/18 Yeti (and Yeti Score)

[Poprivet]

No the pin is a tight fit once the outer coller on the side gears. No trouble drilling them but you can't do it by hand. Just mill a small flat, peck it with the center drill and then drill it with a 5/64" or #47 bit. I still need to find some permanent bearings to use, right now I just have some small traxxas bearings pressed in the stock ones. Forgot to measure the thickness so if anybody knows what it is I'd like to know.

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Thank you for that bit size.
The technique I get. I was just afraid drilling the hardened steel would smoke a drill bit. I will get 2 or 3 just in case.

 

[84yoda]

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I'm using the 10t without issue. What seems to be your trouble? Like you, I'm also not a fan of the set screw. Unnecessarily small.

Really? I couldn't get solid gear mesh.

 

[Lavaheadache]

Really? I couldn't get solid gear mesh.

I'm a gear mesh nazi and had no issue obtaining that necessary slightest little wiggle between each tooth. I noticed that it was easier one way over the other, meaning that I had the pinion on the "top" part of the spur versus the bottom. I think that was the orientation I was using. I can't remember exactly. Too many cars, too many unique situations. Just got home with a new Kraton that I'm about to slap a mamba monster x setup in and bad lands max 38's. Hopefully this will tide me over till I get new rear axles for the Jr.

 

[Chris_K]

Thank you for that bit size.
The technique I get. I was just afraid drilling the hardened steel would smoke a drill bit. I will get 2 or 3 just in case.

It's only case hardened so it's not that bad. Just drill at no more than about 400 rpm or so and make sure to center drill first so it doesn't walk. The bearings I use are 5x8 traxxas bearings pressed into the factory ones. Right now I'm using a large diameter shim to prevent it from coming back out. The real bearings needed I haven't found yet. They should be 5x12x3.5mm.

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[monkeyracer]

Non Titanium parts for those wanting the lower priced option:

Associated 21343
Associated 21387

Just ordered both part numbers above from Tower Hobbies for $10.87 including shipping.

Good tips, I usually drill a small hole in all those type ball ends before installing so that I can fit a hex driver through and remove/install the ball ends without popping the cups on and off. "thumbsup"

The above ball ends are what come with the titanium set, and have the hole already in them. No drilling needed.

Monkeyracer, since you also live in Colorado/Crawlerado and thus have to deal with the exact same weather, I'm curious as to whether you've also experienced cold-related steering issues with your original and upgraded electronics? I started off running a pack last night in my garage and the steering was fine, then I ran out into the driveway where it was 40 degrees and raining - after a few minutes the steering started to get stiff again. I then went down into my basement where everything returned to normal. The other difference here is that the basement floor is polished concrete so there's not a lot of traction and load on the tires when they're turning.

I've not run it when it is super cold yet, mostly been too busy for work. Flying out for a trip this week, and another next week. Add a 7 month old son, the JC Auto Design orders, and life in general, and RC fun only gets a minute or two here or there.

I haven't typically seen issues with the servo on larger rigs doing that. We run competitions all the time outside in really cold temperatures, and that's not common. For the smaller stuff though, I don't know. It is more likely the plastic tie-rods losing some flexibility, and not pivoting on the ball as easily. Try a small dab of grease in the cup, and see if that helps.

 

[colbynobo]

I haven't typically seen issues with the servo on larger rigs doing that. We run competitions all the time outside in really cold temperatures, and that's not common. For the smaller stuff though, I don't know. It is more likely the plastic tie-rods losing some flexibility, and not pivoting on the ball as easily. Try a small dab of grease in the cup, and see if that helps.

It was 50 degrees here in Boulder today and the steering worked okay when I ran it during lunchtime in the wooded section behind my house. Well, it ran well until I hit rock or branch buried in the leaves. Killed my 5 day old Savox. I'll have to resume in a few days when the Hitec comes in. I guess the woods are a bit too rough for the Yeti Jr. The servos in my SCX10ii and Bomber haven't had any issues with the cold temperatures.

 

[monkeyracer]

I think one way we can get a sub-forum is to have some new threads started, rather than keeping everything tangled up in this thread. (And it will help be able to find information easier too...)

I started two other threads just now about the servo and esc/rx issues and replacements. Feel free to post in those threads more information on the subject.

Also, start a new thread for your rig, build thread, etc. It will need to be something that complies with the "tech section" rules, but with enough new threads, the forum mods will have no choice but to start a new section to keep this section about the 1/10 Yetis.

"thumbsup"

 

[84yoda]

I'm a gear mesh nazi and had no issue obtaining that necessary slightest little wiggle between each tooth. I noticed that it was easier one way over the other, meaning that I had the pinion on the "top" part of the spur versus the bottom. I think that was the orientation I was using. I can't remember exactly.

Ya I didn't understand why I couldn't get it to work since stock comes with 10t, so the losi 10t pinion should work. Guess I'll give it anoher try.

I saw at my lhs they had losi single pinions (mini) and those had a bigger pinion screw. Amain shows 10, 12, 14, 16t choices:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/losi-p...422?v=215231&gclid=CKa8idnzutECFQYPaQodCIkBMQ

Robinson also sells 2mm/.5 mod from 12t-23t and uses 5-40 pinion screw. Will .5 mod work? Seems like people run them on there mini-8's with 48p spur.



Edit: got the losi 10t pinion in.

Edit #2: 10t pinion with tiny pinion screw backed off within a few throttle pulls so I picked up losb1861 10t for 2mm shaft, pinion screw is M3x3mm 1.5mm head. Much better.

 

[magic_yeti]

i just looking around planning parts i can put in after stock setup, if its available here in germany/europe. and i just found this little motor.
would this motor fit and would it be appropriate for the little yeti?
TrackStar 380 Sensorless Brushless Motor 3200KV

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-380-sensorless-brushless-motor-3200kv.html


Motor KV: 3200 Max Current: 20A Max Power: 154W
Recommended ESC: 45A Max Voltage: 11.1V / 3S Lipoly
Case Length: 37mm Case Dia: 28mm Bolt Hole Spacing: 16mm and 19mm Shaft Dia: 3.17mm Total Length: 51.5mm Weight: 86g

cause of the bigger shaft it would also solve the pinion problem :mrgreen:

 

[Exiwolfman]

Broke my front axle is the part number correct from axial
AX31502
Since there is no pic of the part , it states that it is universal joint axle set 48 mm 2 pcs

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[Poprivet]

Broke my front axle is the part number correct from axial
AX31502
Since there is no pic of the part , it states that it is universal joint axle set 48 mm 2 pcs

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That is the right part #

 

[Lavaheadache]

Axial Yeti JR. Front CVD Universdal Shafts A-Arms Suspension 1/18 Scale Buggy | eBay

Good deal for you I think

 

[Exiwolfman]

Axial Yeti JR. Front CVD Universdal Shafts A-Arms Suspension 1/18 Scale Buggy | eBay

Good deal for you I think

Good find since axial want 33$ plus shipping just for axels.
Ty

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[Lavaheadache]

You're welcome!!!

 

[mikemcE]

Broke my front axle is the part number correct from axial
AX31502
Since there is no pic of the part , it states that it is universal joint axle set 48 mm 2 pcs

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Interesting, same failure on the 1/10 yeti.... I went to titanium shafts

Hang up and Drive

 

[T_Tank]

so I know its a odd question but comparing another 1/18 rc how does the yeti jr compare to the losi mini LST? and how strong are those plastic out drives on the diffs cause that was the biggest issue with the mini LST was nuking the inside of the diffs.

 

[SCREAMER]

I've been hammering on mine for a couple weeks now, stock motor on 2s, and after countless tumbles, crashes, cartwheels, flips, you name it, nothing has broken or even become sloppy. I'm impressed with its durability so far. Really, I thought for sure I would've broken something by now. I'm still loving my electronics choices too. Hobbywing Quicrun 1080, RTR Bomber RX/TX, and Hitec HS-85mg. I really really want a rear locker for this truck. It gets stuck on everything.

 

[Exiwolfman]

I've been hammering on mine for a couple weeks now, stock motor on 2s, and after countless tumbles, crashes, cartwheels, flips, you name it, nothing has broken or even become sloppy. I'm impressed with its durability so far. Really, I thought for sure I would've broken something by now. I'm still loving my electronics choices too. Hobbywing Quicrun 1080, RTR Bomber RX/TX, and Hitec HS-85mg. I really really want a rear locker for this truck. It gets stuck on everything.

Well mine broke from little roll over but I was running in the cold Sub zero temperature plus I have full size servo with stock motor and 1060 ESC.
Just feels like the truck is hit and miss ...Mine lasted five min on original servo and now this , it's fun yes but definitely not as durable as it should for the price.
Got new parts on order from eBay and new servo from axial under warranty.
Once fixed it may end up on eBay cos as much fun as it is it's not worth enuf at least to me and the braking parts that may come next.
Just my opinion.

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[T_Tank]

Well the mini LST wasn't known for its servo's either though I've been able to crash it head first into a curb an only bend a front dog bone! But my biggest concern is drive line how well the out drive ends of the diffs hold up and the gears they attach to just seams like they'd strip teeth off. Are the satellite gears in the diff assembly metal or plastic like the outer end gears?

 

[TownsendTdi]

Well the mini LST wasn't known for its servo's either though I've been able to crash it head first into a curb an only bend a front dog bone! But my biggest concern is drive line how well the out drive ends of the diffs hold up and the gears they attach to just seams like they'd strip teeth off. Are the satellite gears in the diff assembly metal or plastic like the outer end gears?

The satellite gears are plastic. I have been beating on mine for a while now as well with no broken parts so far.

Found a nice little natural jump:
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