Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
Maybe it's me misunderstanding. Without getting into an electrical debate, I had always assUme that a lower C rating was a lower discharge rate.
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Axial 1/18 Yeti (and Yeti Score)
- Thread starter OSRC
- Start date
Maybe it's me misunderstanding. Without getting into an electrical debate, I had always assUme that a lower C rating was a lower discharge rate.
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
Poprivet
Quarry Creeper
Maybe I'm wrong, but i have always thought that the higher the C rating, the more amps it's capable of discharging safely.
The electronics are going to draw whatever they need and if your lipo can't discharge that many amps safely... poof.
But i am no expert, and i have been wrong before.
Poprivet
Quarry Creeper
This conversation has probably already taken place in the Electronics thread, but this was the first thing that came up when i googled it.
"C Rating is an indicator for the maximum continuous discharge rate of a LiPo. With battery capacity, you can calculate what the maximum current you can constantly draw from the LiPo pack safely. For example, if you have a 3S 1000mah 20C LiPo pack, your safe max current draw would be 1000ma x 20C = 20A."
"C Rating is an indicator for the maximum continuous discharge rate of a LiPo. With battery capacity, you can calculate what the maximum current you can constantly draw from the LiPo pack safely. For example, if you have a 3S 1000mah 20C LiPo pack, your safe max current draw would be 1000ma x 20C = 20A."
raul shabinguez
Quarry Creeper
Straight from the horse's mouth. Or in this case some guy I found doing a Google search. I hate when poprivet is right....so I'll just pretend I'm backing up someone named Ralph. Now back to bitching about broken yeti Jr's. ��
So what does the C rating on a lipo mean? For starters, the C in C Rating stands for capacity. To break it down to its simplest terms, the C rating is the maximum safe continuous discharge rate of a pack. If you see 10C on your battery, it means it can be discharged at 10 times that pack's capacity. Capacity refers to the milliamp-hour rating of the battery, which will be listed as a number followed by mAh (2000mAh, for example).
Here's the easy way to find your battery's discharge rate just multiply the number from the C rating by the pack's capacity. Keep in mind that 1000 milliamps equals one amp. Here's an example, using an 11.1V 2000mAh 10C
11.1 volt 2000mAh -10C
2000 milliamps = 2 amps
2 Amps x 10 = 20 amps continuous discharge
This means that you can safely draw up to 20 amps continuously from that 11.1V 2000mAh 10C without doing damage to your battery. Our packs have all the discharge information printed right on the label. You can check out one of our labels right here. We hope this helps clarify the most misunderstood aspect of electric flight.
Link here:
https://www.commonsenserc.com/page.php?page=c_ratings_explained.html
So what does the C rating on a lipo mean? For starters, the C in C Rating stands for capacity. To break it down to its simplest terms, the C rating is the maximum safe continuous discharge rate of a pack. If you see 10C on your battery, it means it can be discharged at 10 times that pack's capacity. Capacity refers to the milliamp-hour rating of the battery, which will be listed as a number followed by mAh (2000mAh, for example).
Here's the easy way to find your battery's discharge rate just multiply the number from the C rating by the pack's capacity. Keep in mind that 1000 milliamps equals one amp. Here's an example, using an 11.1V 2000mAh 10C
11.1 volt 2000mAh -10C
2000 milliamps = 2 amps
2 Amps x 10 = 20 amps continuous discharge
This means that you can safely draw up to 20 amps continuously from that 11.1V 2000mAh 10C without doing damage to your battery. Our packs have all the discharge information printed right on the label. You can check out one of our labels right here. We hope this helps clarify the most misunderstood aspect of electric flight.
Link here:
https://www.commonsenserc.com/page.php?page=c_ratings_explained.html
Poprivet
Quarry Creeper
Ok, so i ordered the AX31502
Universal Joint Axle Set 48mm (2pcs) from tower hobbies because it was cheaper than axial's price, and free shipping.
I hope it's the right part to replace my bent cvd shaft. There is no picture, and nothing on my bent stock shaft measures 48mm.
Universal Joint Axle Set 48mm (2pcs) from tower hobbies because it was cheaper than axial's price, and free shipping.
I hope it's the right part to replace my bent cvd shaft. There is no picture, and nothing on my bent stock shaft measures 48mm.
ptaryan654
Pebble Pounder
After seeing where mine broke it might be worth it to try epoxy in the cup. I don't see a reason for the shaft to have a ball end on it and mine snapped right at the pin.
Chris_K
Newbie
I don't have any pics of the spool but...I'm just going to leave this here... 8)
Metal prototype is on the way, and more info will be coming very soon.
Started prototyping today.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
I was thinking of a vertical servo mount but rotate it up on end. That way the arm moves on the same plane as it would normally.
Let us know how that ESC works out.
Last edited:
monkeyracer
I wanna be Dave
No list yet. I have to get through the first round of testing to make sure that it is a viable product. Once testing is complete, I will start a pre-order.
Initially, just the 2-piece locker, but I have a set of prototype rear shafts on the way as well. I was going to keep that quiet for a bit until it got through testing, but now that Chris_K is showing off shaft designs, I'll mention that I am looking into those as well.
My target price is $25, so I plan to undercut the Axial stock plastic price with my steel shafts.
That looks right, according to the user manual (Page 19, as well as page 21 - exploded view.)
The 48mm is the measurement from the center of the pin that goes into the differential output cup, to the center of the pivot point of the CVD.
I don't have any pics of the spool but...
Started prototyping today.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Nice. are you planning on getting a vendor star so you can start selling these, or is this just a pet project for yourself?
What material are you using for the prototype? What about for the "final" version?
A vertical servo mount should be easy to fabricate, and I like the idea of having the servo arm move in the same plane as the steering arm. Also, the way you are planning on mounting it is better than pointing the servo arm down. This would keep it clear of the chassis sides as the arm moves.
TrilloThrillo110
Quarry Creeper
You sir, may be taking some of my money soon ;-) Just what I'm after.
Or maybe you will get my money ;-) Will wait and see (assuming you will be selling them)
If someone makes a complete one piece assembly I'll definitely go for that. Otherwise whoever has them for sale first. Very excited for a locked rear. The open diffs really limit slower, rougher stuff. And for bashing offroad it'll be fun to get the back end out a bit more on loose surfaces
And a different servo mount is just up my alley.... good bye more $$$
Chris_K
Newbie
Just a project for myself. Don't ever plan on selling them. The prototype is just rigid material that simulates polypropylene. The one that we started making last night is aluminum.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
TownsendTdi
Quarry Creeper
I hope some aftermarket axle shafts have a regular hex and threaded ends/locknut. Had a wheel screw back out 3 times so far.
Nice, could use Hobbywing WP1625 that's lighter, smaller, and cheaper. "thumbsup"
HOBBYWING North America — QUICRUN Brushed System
Very nice. "thumbsup"
That Hobbywing ESC has been great for me in 1/10 scale crawlers.
Good idea!
Got the JR SCORE last week and have to say.... Servo sucks but it's a pretty fun truck.....Err BUG. Decided to pay tribute to Wilkey Works Urban Assault Bug. Paint tomorrow....
Very nice, I really like them both, but the Score truck is my preference! Bug body is awesome on there too.
If the shaft is steel and uses a screw and washer to retain the wheel it should be fine, my AE Apex Scion FRS brushless was fine with this setup (4mm allenhead capscrew) and some blue Loctite.
I am very interested in one of these 1/18 scale trucks. I am looking for something I can keep in my commuter car all the time for a quick run after work before going back to the hotel. My Yeti and Bomber take up a significant amount of room. I was also thinking the nimh batteries would be safer to leave in a hot car than lipo.
sherman918
Rock Stacker
Go on thr axial website an download the parts diagram. List every part number. Ax31502 is front cvds
Poprivet
Quarry Creeper
Thanks Sherm, it's in the manual also. Just had to get back on topic with something.
sherman918
Rock Stacker
No problem.
On a positive note, been beating on mine for days with 2200 3s lipo, ae5 , spektrum servo. An its a blast. Have yet to break anything. Did order some extra parts frim towerhobbies.com so when it does though. Very fun rig.
Im overall happy with purchase. Now to wait for rear locker.
sherman918
Rock Stacker
Any other place beside tower selling parts?
Anybody put in different brushed motor?
Stock 40t on 3s is really good an good speed. Just curious of option like dynamite tazer 25t 380 motor.
Anybody put in different brushed motor?
Stock 40t on 3s is really good an good speed. Just curious of option like dynamite tazer 25t 380 motor.
