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Antique Case Gas Powered Toy Tractor

I forgot to mention that these can be fueled the same way vehicles are today. Use one of the nipples on the tank on either side of the needle valve and fill until it squirts out of the other nipple. We used squeeze bulbs like oversized eye droppers for fueling. I don't think there was any foam in the tank.

Lmao. Holy cow you read minds! I just got back on here to ask how it's supposed to be fueled thats pretty good. Also is there supposed to be a nipple or air filter that goes in the center? I know it works but took me a minute to figure out how the fuel actually got to the head. Weird it has to travel through the case. Use reg nitro Rc fuel in this? Thanks again
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Found this on "RC Groups":

And help you identify what you have, most are not fussy in use as long as you use proper fuel (25% Nitro is good and 20% castor oil is best)and keep them clean. The TD serie(.010,.020,.049) have more power than the reedy(.020,.049), but the reed valve engines can run in both directions. If you look in that thread you'll see many examples of what can be done with them.

Pulling the fuel in from the crank helped keep them cool, lubricated and the engine and fuel tank integral to one another.
 
Awesome help man.

Also I figured out why it probably wasn't fired with the new plug and why the pull start was stuck out. Whoever had it apart last put the recoil spring in backwards! I would pull it out and it would free spin. Then as it reeled in the motor turned. I know it wasn't supposed to start that way. Man putting that recoil back in the right way was a pain but it works right now. I really like their alternative to a one way bearing. Very unique.

I double checked and made sure it's supposed to run clockwise and that's how the pull start engages it now.
 
That's a late 70's AMD puller conversion.
They retailed for about $110 when new.
The motor is definitely an .049.
The heat sink on the head gives the age away.
The kit came with the crude aluminum bracket, the gears, which were all gears from other cox gas powered cars. Mainly the dune buggy and the baja bug. The white large gear is probably from the cox pinto/vega funny cars.
Yes, the fuel tank is on the end of the motor, on either side of the needle valve is where you fill the fuel with a squeeze bulb filler, either hole, the other would be a vent, and would work visa versa.
No foam should be in the tank, just the little hose, and maybe a spring in the line to keep its shape.
Some did some don't.
The rear wheel and tires came with it also. And I've seen many converted ertl wheels and tires too.
Rear axle assembly is also from the same cox dune buggy, baja bug.
There should be a little gasket between the fuel tank and the crank case.
Also a gold ring, sort of a head gasket between the head, and the cylinder.
The recoil may be a ratchet style, or just a spring style, I couldn't tell from the pics.
They use the same spring.
Rubbing alcohol will be your best friend in removing the sticky castol oil from the motor and related parts.
It wont break down the plastic and makes it good as new.
The ertl tractors were pretty much cut up by the builder at will to fit the conversion.
I've only seen a few done nicely. Most are pretty hacked.

Ebay, and toy show prices are pretty much around $120 to $300 depending how nicely done, and how complete they are.

Info is far and few between on these.
Never seen a conversion new in a package, or not bolted to a tractor of some sort, but all diecast ertls either way.



I restore many old cox.... [hahaha... I know]
I have about 40 right now.
Pm me your email if you want pics or any further advise.

It's a pretty rare find, I've never seen one done up in a case tractor before, mostly Internationals, and Deere's.
 
I may email you a different time. Right now I'm trying to keep my questions public so it'll come up in the search function for other users and other members have the opportunity to answer as well. You were very right my fuel tank has the gasket still and my fuel tube has the little spring. My next question!- is there a special igniter because I don't think mine has a straight shot once I put this thing back in. Thanks guys
 
I think this is a really cool project...I'll definitely have to keep an eye out for one of these "thumbsup"

This might shed some light on how to fuel it up and get it running...

<iframe width="720" height="615" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/-ttjE1TZYLU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Oh nice video. Now I know to start at 3.5 turns out and to prime it. Didnt know either of those. Thanks. I'll def be posting a video if I can get this running.
 
Well it's all back together and smooth. Here's a couple tires I had laying around. They were fronts so fit right on the axle and bolted up too! Not leaving them but they look cool !
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Will attempt ignition later
 
Well I spoke with the owner. Looks like I'll be doing some ebaying as he really wants to see it run. Lesson learned lol. Hopefully I order the correct motor.

Are all the .049s the same?? Most on the bay have plane props but my assumption is once that's unbolted it's the same motor. Please chime in. Thanks again guys

Edit- after looking at them on the bay I realized most of the actual cases are elongated different than what I have here. This should hook me up. And cheap too. sorry the link is the mobile version. I mostly use only my phone.
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=280898102060
 
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Cool vid! At least you got it to start and run! I remember a couple of Christmas mornings ending with my pop throwing whatever Cox 049 model across our garage because it would never start!
 
most internals are the same on the 049's, remember these well, Oh and you need to drive it with a pencil, Pulling rules back the day stated you could not touch it with your hand after touching the rear tires to the track (table) and you had to bump them with a pencil to steer! Next were the stomper pulls!!
 
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