A Yeti for the Alllgäu or my little monster

[magic_yeti]

All started round christmas with a Tamiya Frog, but that's another story [emoji6]

After few weeks modding upgrading and testing, it was clear i can't get the Froggy run on my prefered ground.
So another RC Car the little Monster (Yeti Kit) was my decision to solve this Problem.
Fist stage of build:
Axial Yeti Kit
Castle Creation SCT Combo with 3800kv (5mm Version)
Axial 2-Speed Option
GPM Motor and Transmission Mount
The Arrival

As the Build proceeds i ordered the following Parts to complete it for the Maiden Drive.
Savöx 0231 for the 2-Speed, switches the gears like butter[emoji2]
Savöx 1210 SG for steering, would change it to HH SHV 500 now. but still pleased with the savöx.
Axial Rear Upper Link Plates, after my Tests a Vanquish Titianium Rear Upper Link would be the better decision
Castle Quick Link
GPM Heavy Dutys 14 mm front 22 mm rear, so no need for 12 mm nut, very happy with them so far.
Spare Methods, good idea mentioned for spare tire, but replaced the killed once.

After a few Days till the order arrived.
Froggy has a new Friend [emoji4]

Inspired on some treads i builded my first diy part a dust cover. cuted out of 0.5mm ABS.

Now it was ready for Maiden Drive. Using 2s Lipo borrowed from his Friend.

After first run checking the dust cover[emoji106]

All went well. But froggy burned the cheap turnigy esc, and as always planned to go 3s and not to risk the CC SCT Esc it goes into the Froggy and little Monster got an CC Monster X.[emoji2]
Changing to this Combo and 3s with 64/19 produces so much power. Now Parts starting to break during the test runs.
Killed the plastic methods

Bend the hinge Pin and the Alu Steering Ling

The hinge Pinis bending cause theres no help between the A-Arm. So i made a sleeve for between.
Using a 4mm and 5mm Alutube

Works great and caused the next breakage after a huge hit.
Replaced the frond links with traxxas, found this here on the forum. thx for sharing

Also the lockouts on the rear which i changed in the mean time to SSD Wide axle for AR60 gets loose.
I put in beeftubes, but thats only helps a little, so next diy modding. Add a screw in front and back, now its tide and i think this solves also axle bending. Switched to the SSD Wide Axle kit cause i bend the kit axle.

This was just to keep it running, SSD WIDE Diamond was on the way[emoji2]
Also after first run i see the stock screws getting rusty, so i ordered a kit of 12.8 torx from rc scrauben.
Out of the build process, what would i change in decisions:
start with better screws, install a beef tube or use SSD axle.
Next post i will write some of the painting process

hope i can give back some with this thread for what i get out of the forums here.






Gesendet von meinem T1-A21L mit Tapatalk

 

[TomFrajer]

Nice to see your Yeti thread. Will come here frequently "thumbsup"

 

[Ty1330]

Ugh those method wheels are garbage. I really don't know why Axial hasn't stopped making them! Right now I just use a set of axial trail lock d's and they hold up a million times better.

Pretty gnarly link bend you had there, never seen that happen yet haha

Seeing as you are looking to put in some big power, get an aluminum motor mount, crawler innovations deuces wild foams, MIP driveshaft, Locked Up F.I. spool (busted the stock one too many times myself lol), and atleast some rpm arms when you can. That SSD axle will be a god send aswell (ar60's have an undersized bearing that usually fails every few hard runs). Other than that, enjoy!

 

[magic_yeti]

I still did some of your recommandations. thx ty, i think some i get out of your buil thread
To keep timeline of this build first a few paint job pictures.

Moritate te salutant

Fuel Cell with extra electronic, prepared it for lightcontroller and put the Quick link in.

Radiator, but not installed yet, cause i installed spare tire. still thinking how to install both.

I used silver flacs on neon green, not perfect but it's my 2 paint job

Here i painted free hand to get the color flow.

For my flames i used fluid crep, but next time i will try sometink else. cause it worked ok but not full happy with it.

All together

later on i also painted the rim put some decals on .....

Gesendet von meinem T1-A21L mit Tapatalk

 

[magic_yeti]

after first runs all worked well but now setup time starting, cause kit set up was very bummpy.

So i ordered some spring sets to play with.
hot racing
-optional Front 14*54mm specs are 2.64 3.4 3.8 4.95 lbs/in
-optional rear 14*90mm specs 1.32 1.71 2.25 3.01 lbs/in
-HD Rally tune Spring Set with progressive springs

And i ordered Axial 70mm blue.

Order some diff and spring oil
diff 500k cst and 2000k cst
spring 500cst 700cst

and last but not leased 56 spur and some pinion 14 19 21 and gpm front sway bar (not installed)

reading all the threads here, most people are very happy with front 700cst (think. approx 60wt) and the blue 70mm axial spring. So tried it first and it was perfect.
front diff right now has 500k needs testing breakage came the way[emoji6]

still playing on the rear tested the 70mm options but even to soft or hard for the little bumps out there.
found the spring connectors in the kit for double spring setup. which i use with the white and red ones out of the front spring set. put the 500 ( think app. 40wt) cst in.

But biggest improvement are the CI Wild Single stage standard foams. they reduced the yeti side rolls about 90% [emoji106] [emoji3] so put it on your stage 1 list.

ty mentined rpm a-arms and mip drive shaft. great products but i will stay with stock ones cause they are my weak points that i will keep.

looking for a solution regarding the methods. i found. alu replacements for the plastic outer ring from gpm. you can see on the painted or better not painted part on the plastic where most of the torgue is going. same area they break.

gpm' also looking great love green.

Gesendet von meinem T1-A21L mit Tapatalk

 

[magic_yeti]

took the little monster on vacation, 2 weeks test driving on great locations.

But it was over after 3 days
First day, i had a light slide on a wall, the rear upper link broke at the axle ballpoint.
to continue my test drives i use superglue for repair, don't do this....

it holts up for a little time, but unfortunatly it broke again on high speed. and cause of this the right front hit a wooden pole. here is the result....

cause of my hinge pin mod, the weekest part gave up the steering knuckle broke. so no more test drives.
ordered Vanquish titanium rear upper links, vanquish steering knuckle and as a goodie front shock tower from vanquish.

i have now installed in the rear
ssd diamond wide axle, vanquish rear upper links, trailing armes are still kit version with plates.
i have ssd trailing arms on the way cause i bet this will the next part breaking
i choose the ssd cause they use rod ends which are easy to repair.

front still stock instead of the new steering knuckles

took a few packs during the weekend threw, and [emoji3] nothing break [emoji106]
but my motor get loose... forgot to loctide..

i will order vanquish front caster blocks, i think they are the week point now.

worked also over the weekend on my ssd rockracer rims, my wife's birthday present. love her[emoji4]

so they are prepered for the new tires. ordered ottsix voodoo klr 2.2. hope they came in the next days.






Gesendet von meinem T1-A21L mit Tapatalk

 

[magic_yeti]

took another pack on it.
played with the rear upperlink mounting position.
if i put it into the lowest pos the front was uncontrolable wheeling on acceleration.
mounted on highest nearest to the chassi makes it better.
not sure if stiffer oil will also help keeping the front down or maybe stiffer springs.
taking the little nasty bumps on the gras it worked fine .....

in first gear i was satisfied with the setup.

and i found an additional issue on the front the cvd joint where i hit the pole has little play.
so i'm thinking about an replacement
axial, incision or vanquish. more between incision and axial. which lenght are the incisions?
any other options?




Gesendet von meinem T1-A21L mit Tapatalk

 

[TomFrajer]

Incisions are still holding well on mine

 

[magic_yeti]

just got some goddies ......
-full set t-bone racing skit plates

-gear head slim roof set with waterproof blue white led
-gear head six shooter with mount
-gearhead winch mount
- strc shock collar
- hot racing axle lower shock mount
- hh torque master spool
- kbess limiting straps
- hot racing fuel cell lid
- yeahracing lock nuts
- amf alu hood and side panels (winter project 2. body)

so lot of work and fun comming [emoji2] [emoji41]
but i still have to order some parts for lights. bec etc.
i'm planning drive light, break rear light, and a gear indicator.
i have killerbody controller on the shelf, but maybe switch to heyok. not sure about direction lights
Gesendet von meinem T1-A21L mit Tapatalk

 

[magic_yeti]

i installed gpm front swaybar and tbr skit plates

the sway made the handling much better and controlable on my test track

and the little play in my cvd's is gone

couldn't find the rest.

so axial is out incision is in and on the way.



Gesendet von meinem T1-A21L mit Tapatalk

 

[magic_yeti]

facing a major issue. every time i run. the rear right and front left locknuts on the tire gets loose.
i know that this have to do with rotating direction.
but there has to be locknuts that are not get loose.
need some advice at this. tested a few but had this issue with all of them more or less.

Gesendet von meinem T1-A21L mit Tapatalk

 

[TomFrajer]

Try to put two nuts on and tighten them realy tight! This should help

facing a major issue. every time i run. the rear right and front left locknuts on the tire gets loose.
i know that this have to do with rotating direction.
but there has to be locknuts that are not get loose.
need some advice at this. tested a few but had this issue with all of them more or less.

Gesendet von meinem T1-A21L mit Tapatalk

 

[magic_yeti]

will try this next time running, cause i need them really tide cause i'm running pin mounted hubs.
any other options? cause of gras cycling round axle and hub on my ground i have to take of wheels to get gras of. two nuts would be annoying then [emoji5] .

Gesendet von meinem T1-A21L mit Tapatalk

 

[TomFrajer]

will try this next time running, cause i need them really tide cause i'm running pin mounted hubs.
any other options? cause of gras cycling round axle and hub on my ground i have to take of wheels to get gras of. two nuts would be annoying then [emoji5] .

Gesendet von meinem T1-A21L mit Tapatalk

Loctite?

 

[magic_yeti]

Loctite?

same like 2 nuts, loctide needs time to dry. [emoji15]

Gesendet von meinem T1-A21L mit Tapatalk

 

[Sjonnie82]

Some new Nuts?

 

[magic_yeti]

Some new Nuts?

but which one? which will not get loose?

 

[Sjonnie82]

I would replace these first for fresh ones, if no good then search for some serrated nuts so these bite in the rim.

 

[magic_yeti]

I would replace these first for fresh ones, if no good then search for some serrated nuts so these bite in the rim.

mine are new and serrated. that's my problem.
have some yeah racing in the shelf will test them next time.

found these, any one tried these
Yeah Racing 4mm Aluminium Lock Nut (TI), (#LN-M4-TI) ,(LN-M4-TI)
alternatively
25 Stück DIN 6926 A4 M4 Sperrverzahnung - SAM Screws and more GmbH

i think i will first go with the last ones 8)

nobody else is faceing this problem?

 

[TomFrajer]

They always get loose. Mine are getting loose as well. I just check them after and before every run and tighten them. I also check wheels when running and in case I see any wobbling wheel I check nuts as first thing. Thei are either loose or axle shaft is bent :-D

mine are new and serrated. that's my problem.
have some yeah racing in the shelf will test them next time.

found these, any one tried these
Yeah Racing 4mm Aluminium Lock Nut (TI), (#LN-M4-TI) ,(LN-M4-TI)
alternatively
25 Stück DIN 6926 A4 M4 Sperrverzahnung - SAM Screws and more GmbH

i think i will first go with the last ones 8)

nobody else is faceing this problem?