In spending the last few days playing around with bergs on a slingshot chassis with multiple link and sprung shock configurations not really able to get to anything I really am in love with. (its hard to get alot of articulation and huge GC from something designed and suited best for .6 shock and 12 inch WB) It finally dawned on me that the slingshot is also one of the sickest chassis out there for droop......so I set up a full 12.5 WB at 2.75 GC, stripped all the springs out of a pair of my 4" losi shocks and what do you know it bolted together beautifully.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
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Now of course it inchworms(arches) like a mother, and the heavy axles+7oz lead in the front+ only 30 wt oil (haha..maybe half full) make it flop around like a rag doll. <o></o>
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Now I have never ran a pure droop RC before but figured since I already slipped into the dark side I might as well get the full experience at least for a few runs before giving up on this experiment and going back to my Zero configuration that i have finally gotten dialed in. (nice thing about my berg is switching chassis setups only takes about 20 minutes.)<o></o>
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So my questions to the droop guru's or anyone else who has some droopy wisdom is what do I need to do to get this bitch dialed in and running good while at the same time counteracting the negatives of droop as much as possible.<o></o>
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1.I am thinking first of running pure Droop (just oil, if your gonna do it might as well do it all the way and then work your way back) , what do you do to counter act unloading without internal springs? Just thick oil and less piston holes?<o></o>
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2.If i find that the pure droop isnt working what are my adjustment options?<o></o>
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3.More specifically, when adding spring under piston do you need to match it more to the chassis weight or to the entire weight of the rig or just the axle it sits on?<o></o>
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4.with the wheelbase change that occurs when drooping down what is the max amount of change you want to allow?<o></o>
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5.when I get to fine-tuning the amount of allowable droop is (straps on shock/tubing in shock body/ect more effective or is limit strap to center of axle better...or mixture of both? <o></o>
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6.Generally do you want your rig lighter or heavier to work with droop? and more importantly what bias do you want , front or balanced?<o></o>
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7.Is it better to tune each end differently or have each end (frt/back) move and react the same?<o></o>
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8.What are you using for cushioning/dampening at full compression and how much is the minimum for welfare of your rig? or do you just let it knock the teeth out of your imaginary driver on board...lol?<o></o>
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9.Am I correct in assuming that with Droop you are going to in general want to be adjusting your squat/anti-squat in the direction of a more squat bias? What is the tell tale sign when you have gone past the line with squat in a droop setup?<o></o>
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10.Finally I know the first rule to a vehicle setup is everyone’s rig is different and everyone has a different driving style.....these are meant as general principles type questions, a starting place for someone wishing to try a droop setup all in one thread instead of trying to gleam together tidbits from the 12 pages of threads under the droop search I just spent the last 4 hours reading through. What I am really looking for is for the guys who really understand this suspension set up to offer some thoughts on those questions and a brief description of what their setup is and what they think the positives and negative are of it and why. that way not only will this give some guidelines for general stuff but also be able to scan down the list for concrete examples of peoples rigs that are similar to what they are attempting to try or are wanting/thinking to switch to.<o></o>
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Since I just got through reading those 12 pages I will start first with what i think I learned about pure droop setups and ask if anyone notices anything that isnt compatible:<o></o>
<o></o>
Berg axles, slingshot chassis, losi 4" shock oil only no springs, 4link (stock slingshot front, longer links in rear), panther tires with double memories,14 oz front weight bias.<o></o>
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After running it with just heavy weight oil if I hate it I will begin tweaking it with:<o></o>
Dialing in more squat until it stops unloading on flat ground and continue in small increments from there.<o></o>
Adding some soft springs under piston to counteract any unloading of the chassis on steep inclines.<o></o>
Potentially add a little stiffer spring in the fronts since its much heavier.<o></o>
Add a strap to center of axle at length to still allow full articulation but stop any further full axle droop.<o></o>
Add a sliver of tubing above piston or on shaft to add slight cushion at full compression.<o></o>
Finally add small sections of tubing under piston to stop any additional unwanted droop
fficeffice" /><o></o><o
></o>Now of course it inchworms(arches) like a mother, and the heavy axles+7oz lead in the front+ only 30 wt oil (haha..maybe half full) make it flop around like a rag doll. <o
></o><o
></o>Now I have never ran a pure droop RC before but figured since I already slipped into the dark side I might as well get the full experience at least for a few runs before giving up on this experiment and going back to my Zero configuration that i have finally gotten dialed in. (nice thing about my berg is switching chassis setups only takes about 20 minutes.)<o
></o><o
></o>So my questions to the droop guru's or anyone else who has some droopy wisdom is what do I need to do to get this bitch dialed in and running good while at the same time counteracting the negatives of droop as much as possible.<o
></o><o
></o>1.I am thinking first of running pure Droop (just oil, if your gonna do it might as well do it all the way and then work your way back) , what do you do to counter act unloading without internal springs? Just thick oil and less piston holes?<o
></o><o
></o>2.If i find that the pure droop isnt working what are my adjustment options?<o
></o><o
></o>3.More specifically, when adding spring under piston do you need to match it more to the chassis weight or to the entire weight of the rig or just the axle it sits on?<o
></o><o
></o>4.with the wheelbase change that occurs when drooping down what is the max amount of change you want to allow?<o
></o><o
></o>5.when I get to fine-tuning the amount of allowable droop is (straps on shock/tubing in shock body/ect more effective or is limit strap to center of axle better...or mixture of both? <o
></o><o
></o>6.Generally do you want your rig lighter or heavier to work with droop? and more importantly what bias do you want , front or balanced?<o
></o><o
></o>7.Is it better to tune each end differently or have each end (frt/back) move and react the same?<o
></o><o
></o>8.What are you using for cushioning/dampening at full compression and how much is the minimum for welfare of your rig? or do you just let it knock the teeth out of your imaginary driver on board...lol?<o
></o><o
></o>9.Am I correct in assuming that with Droop you are going to in general want to be adjusting your squat/anti-squat in the direction of a more squat bias? What is the tell tale sign when you have gone past the line with squat in a droop setup?<o
></o><o
></o><o
></o>10.Finally I know the first rule to a vehicle setup is everyone’s rig is different and everyone has a different driving style.....these are meant as general principles type questions, a starting place for someone wishing to try a droop setup all in one thread instead of trying to gleam together tidbits from the 12 pages of threads under the droop search I just spent the last 4 hours reading through. What I am really looking for is for the guys who really understand this suspension set up to offer some thoughts on those questions and a brief description of what their setup is and what they think the positives and negative are of it and why. that way not only will this give some guidelines for general stuff but also be able to scan down the list for concrete examples of peoples rigs that are similar to what they are attempting to try or are wanting/thinking to switch to.<o
></o><o
></o>Since I just got through reading those 12 pages I will start first with what i think I learned about pure droop setups and ask if anyone notices anything that isnt compatible:<o
></o><o
></o>Berg axles, slingshot chassis, losi 4" shock oil only no springs, 4link (stock slingshot front, longer links in rear), panther tires with double memories,14 oz front weight bias.<o
></o><o
></o>After running it with just heavy weight oil if I hate it I will begin tweaking it with:<o
></o>Dialing in more squat until it stops unloading on flat ground and continue in small increments from there.<o
></o>Adding some soft springs under piston to counteract any unloading of the chassis on steep inclines.<o
></o>Potentially add a little stiffer spring in the fronts since its much heavier.<o
></o>Add a strap to center of axle at length to still allow full articulation but stop any further full axle droop.<o
></o>Add a sliver of tubing above piston or on shaft to add slight cushion at full compression.<o
></o>Finally add small sections of tubing under piston to stop any additional unwanted droop
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