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I think these old Broncos with sunset paint are iconic and I really like what Traxxas has done with their replica. However, to be honest, the TRX4 is priced a little outside my budget so I’ve attempted to build a version that I can afford.
I purchased the body, wheels, and tires from various ebay sellers. The push bar is scratch made and LEDs are from RC4WD (I think it’s the Mojave kit).
Paint is just some Krylon I had on hand. The topper is painted flat and the body should be gloss but I think the can was mis-labeled – it looks more like satin than gloss. Oh well, I reckon it’s good enough for a trail runner.
The mirrors supplied with the body are hard plastic and have fixed mounts (don’t retract). So, I’ve removed the integral mounts and made replacements that allow the mirrors to retract. Now, hopefully, the mirrors won’t get broken off on the trails.
The chassis is from Injora/Austar (ebay) and is very similar to the SCX10 II.
The motor is a 351 Cleveland that was pulled from a demo derby car. It smoked really bad when I got it so it was bored 30 over and has a mild Crane solid lifter cam but is otherwise stock. ;-)
Okay seriously, I found that motor cooler on ebay and I couldn’t resist. I think it looks very scale accurate setting in this chassis.
The actual drive motor is from RC4WD. It’s a 20t and way too fast for this truck so it will be swapped for the 35t motor that was included with the chassis. I’ll save the 20T for one of my buggies.
The motor mounts, transmission and t-case are scratch made. The battery has been moved aft and motor was moved forward to accommodate a full depth interior – more about that later.
Battery mounts and shock hoops are scratch made as well. The chassis rail extensions are from a Bruiser. The rear shock hoops are moved forward so they will fit under the rear seat. This will allow for a deeper interior bucket.
Front suspension is standard 4 link, servo is frame mounted and, surprisingly, this arrangement actually yields zero bump steer. I was prepared to convert to 3 link with pan-hard but with no bump steer, I decided to leave it as is. I’m still adjusting the steering arm length so there is a gap in the top link. I’ll sort that out that later.
I have a couple of these Injora chassis now and they run very smooth and quiet. The biggest problem is the front axle; it’s made with negative camber and the camber angle differs with left and right side. I think it looks a bit odd so I’ve found a relatively simple way to bring the camber back to zero and the mod doesn’t compromise strength.
I think these old Broncos with sunset paint are iconic and I really like what Traxxas has done with their replica. However, to be honest, the TRX4 is priced a little outside my budget so I’ve attempted to build a version that I can afford.
I purchased the body, wheels, and tires from various ebay sellers. The push bar is scratch made and LEDs are from RC4WD (I think it’s the Mojave kit).
Paint is just some Krylon I had on hand. The topper is painted flat and the body should be gloss but I think the can was mis-labeled – it looks more like satin than gloss. Oh well, I reckon it’s good enough for a trail runner.
The mirrors supplied with the body are hard plastic and have fixed mounts (don’t retract). So, I’ve removed the integral mounts and made replacements that allow the mirrors to retract. Now, hopefully, the mirrors won’t get broken off on the trails.
The chassis is from Injora/Austar (ebay) and is very similar to the SCX10 II.
The motor is a 351 Cleveland that was pulled from a demo derby car. It smoked really bad when I got it so it was bored 30 over and has a mild Crane solid lifter cam but is otherwise stock. ;-)
Okay seriously, I found that motor cooler on ebay and I couldn’t resist. I think it looks very scale accurate setting in this chassis.
The actual drive motor is from RC4WD. It’s a 20t and way too fast for this truck so it will be swapped for the 35t motor that was included with the chassis. I’ll save the 20T for one of my buggies.
The motor mounts, transmission and t-case are scratch made. The battery has been moved aft and motor was moved forward to accommodate a full depth interior – more about that later.
Battery mounts and shock hoops are scratch made as well. The chassis rail extensions are from a Bruiser. The rear shock hoops are moved forward so they will fit under the rear seat. This will allow for a deeper interior bucket.
Front suspension is standard 4 link, servo is frame mounted and, surprisingly, this arrangement actually yields zero bump steer. I was prepared to convert to 3 link with pan-hard but with no bump steer, I decided to leave it as is. I’m still adjusting the steering arm length so there is a gap in the top link. I’ll sort that out that later.
I have a couple of these Injora chassis now and they run very smooth and quiet. The biggest problem is the front axle; it’s made with negative camber and the camber angle differs with left and right side. I think it looks a bit odd so I’ve found a relatively simple way to bring the camber back to zero and the mod doesn’t compromise strength.
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