Wish I could help, but this is one of those things I have yet to do. From what I understand, Meshmixer is the way to go on this.
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3D Printers and Printing
- Thread starter Greatscott
- Start date
Wish I could help, but this is one of those things I have yet to do. From what I understand, Meshmixer is the way to go on this.
k7zpj
RCC Addict
One way to do this is with your slicer by sinking the model into the build plate and then slicing. Only the part above the build plate is sliced. The trick is to use a reference point on the model so the two halves with line.
This video will give you an idea how to do the above. It also has a quick look at MeshMixer.
Unfortunately, Netfabb basic isn't available anymore. I am running an old copy on my system.
<iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/afLolx2OEKE" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe>
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Sniper4370
Quarry Creeper
I found a way of doing it with a Windows 10 program called 3D Builder. I haven't tried to print it yet but, seems it should work. Thanks guys.
Awesome, let us know how it comes out.
Anyone pull the trigger on the Prusa Mini yet? I was excited about this printer when it was announced, but I have not seen a review on it that hasn't shown a number of problems with the machine.
Thanks for the heads up! I'll have to check it out.
Meshmixer is powerful, but not the easiest to use IMO.
I know soze has a Mini on order, but I don't think he received it yet.
That's a bummer if the reviews show a problematic machine. The i3 MK3 is the exact opposite of that and I highly recommend it.
k7zpj
RCC Addict
Mine arrived a couple of weeks ago, but I sent it back due to issues with it. I wasn't able to get the x-axis square with the bed and issues with the x-axis wobbling when the extruder moved.
If you can come up with the extra bucks, I would recommend getting the MK3s instead.
Well I was curious to see what the deal with the Prusa Mini is and it looks like there are a few screws that if over tightened can tweak the bed.
First review before fixing
https://youtu.be/5Ai9LKpuavE
After the fix
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/eJ1gPa8GATQ" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
First review before fixing
https://youtu.be/5Ai9LKpuavE
After the fix
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/eJ1gPa8GATQ" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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k7zpj
RCC Addict
The problem with mine was a twist in the z-axis which caused the x and y axis to be out of square. The height of the x axis above the bed was fine on both sides so the problem wasn't the over tightened screws.
After working on it for a couple of days with Prusa support, they decided that they needed to do an exchange on the printer. So I am now waiting again for another printer to be shipped.
Prusa support is great. They are going to work with you until you have a working printer.
Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
Your last sentence plays a considerable part in why, why I do decide to finally get (and, when I can finally afford) a 3D printer, the Prusa Mini is currently my #1 choice.
~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]
If one or a few over-tightened screws can throw everything out of whack I'd avoid this printer. I mean is there a torque spec for the screws in the manual? I highly doubt it. It sounds like this printer needs a design revision. I'd personally wait for the Mini 2.0.
Well, I finally got my hands on a V3 CastleLink and made a case for it. Like the other one, the heat shrink has to be removed.
As far as I can tell, there are two versions of the V3, one with a mini-USB and one with a micro-USB, I have made one for both. Given that I only have the micro-USB variety, that is the only one I have actually tested, so let me know if there are any issues.
image0 by Scott O, on Flickr
The files...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4165708
As far as I can tell, there are two versions of the V3, one with a mini-USB and one with a micro-USB, I have made one for both. Given that I only have the micro-USB variety, that is the only one I have actually tested, so let me know if there are any issues.
image0 by Scott O, on FlickrThe files...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4165708
Finally, my 3D printing magnum opus...
A long, long time ago, in a city far, far away (San Diego), I built my first scale truck. At the time the SCX10 was not out yet, and the few chassis that were out were not exactly complete. As a result, frame cross members, braces, skids, and transmission trays all had to be made by hand, or had to have lots of modification to mount up properly. The fruits of my labor is pictured below, the truck in the upper left. When it started out it had AX10 axles and an E-Maxx 2-speed transmission. The transmission itself worked great, but hung down too far and always got hung up, so I swapped it out for a AX10 transmission. There have been a number of mods and improvements that I have made to this guy along the way, and is, for the most part, bullet proof.
Along with the Summit body, I also have Summit bumpers on it, along with the whole complement of Summit LEDs front and back. But, I have always wanted front headlights were the belong in the body. I have tried various light buckets, I have tried making my own, and have been unsuccessful.
Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
Flash forward to not quite a year ago, I wanted light buckets for this truck, and knew if I wanted them to look right, I would go beyond ready-made buckets and the random RC parts I have in my parts drawers. So, I bought my 3D printer with the ultimate aim for making these buckets. After more than my fair share of Thingiverse downloads, teaching my self Fusion 360, designing and printing all kinds of parts for my other RCs, I have finally realized my vision...
I give you... THE SUMMIT LIGHT BUCKETS!!!!
Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr
by Scott O, on Flickr
Admittedly, my original vision for these is a bit different than what they turned into, but I do like the result. I was thinking I could put two LEDs in, but was afraid I would only be able to get one in, but realized 3 would work!!!! The trick is that exo-cage bar that comes down right in the middle of the head lights, that is where that hole in the middle lines up, and where the buckets attach with a 3mm screw.
I have had a new clear Summit body sitting on the shelf, just waiting for when I get these buckets designed. I need to wait a month or so for the weather to warm up a bit more so I can paint the body. For the buckets themselves, I cannot decided if I want to mount them as they are, or if I want to sand them up then paint them the same color as the body...
Thoughts?
A long, long time ago, in a city far, far away (San Diego), I built my first scale truck. At the time the SCX10 was not out yet, and the few chassis that were out were not exactly complete. As a result, frame cross members, braces, skids, and transmission trays all had to be made by hand, or had to have lots of modification to mount up properly. The fruits of my labor is pictured below, the truck in the upper left. When it started out it had AX10 axles and an E-Maxx 2-speed transmission. The transmission itself worked great, but hung down too far and always got hung up, so I swapped it out for a AX10 transmission. There have been a number of mods and improvements that I have made to this guy along the way, and is, for the most part, bullet proof.
Along with the Summit body, I also have Summit bumpers on it, along with the whole complement of Summit LEDs front and back. But, I have always wanted front headlights were the belong in the body. I have tried various light buckets, I have tried making my own, and have been unsuccessful.
Untitled by Scott O, on FlickrFlash forward to not quite a year ago, I wanted light buckets for this truck, and knew if I wanted them to look right, I would go beyond ready-made buckets and the random RC parts I have in my parts drawers. So, I bought my 3D printer with the ultimate aim for making these buckets. After more than my fair share of Thingiverse downloads, teaching my self Fusion 360, designing and printing all kinds of parts for my other RCs, I have finally realized my vision...
I give you... THE SUMMIT LIGHT BUCKETS!!!!
Untitled by Scott O, on Flickr by Scott O, on FlickrAdmittedly, my original vision for these is a bit different than what they turned into, but I do like the result. I was thinking I could put two LEDs in, but was afraid I would only be able to get one in, but realized 3 would work!!!! The trick is that exo-cage bar that comes down right in the middle of the head lights, that is where that hole in the middle lines up, and where the buckets attach with a 3mm screw.
I have had a new clear Summit body sitting on the shelf, just waiting for when I get these buckets designed. I need to wait a month or so for the weather to warm up a bit more so I can paint the body. For the buckets themselves, I cannot decided if I want to mount them as they are, or if I want to sand them up then paint them the same color as the body...
Thoughts?
k7zpj
RCC Addict
Completed the enclosure for my Prusa MK3S /MMU2S. This allows placement of the spool holders and filament buffer on the top instead to save space.
The top can be raised in case you need to access the printer. The doors can be removed for printing PLA and PETG so you don't get jams from the printer being too hot.
The top can be raised in case you need to access the printer. The doors can be removed for printing PLA and PETG so you don't get jams from the printer being too hot.
soze
I wanna be Dave
Got my Prusa Mini today, and now it's going to go into shower quarantine for a few days.
I'll need to build a lack enclosure as well.
I'll need to build a lack enclosure as well.
That's awesome! Is it the IKEA enclosure?
Yes! Finally! I didn't realize people were putting packages in quarantine...
soze
I wanna be Dave
Yeah, you can call me paranoid, but I've been using nitrile gloves to handle my packages and put them in quarantine for a few days. Then washing my hands.
My wife got strange looks because she started wearing masks, gloves, and eye protectors really early on when she went grocery shopping. After a few weeks, she no longer really gets a second glance, because many are doing the same thing now! :lmao:
I don't know if it's paranoia. I didn't know people were doing it and maybe I should be doing it. I literally haven't left the house in 2 or 3 weeks.
soze
I wanna be Dave
I've only left 2x in the last 4 weeks. Sucks for me, because the weekends were my outlet after working from home the whole week. Now it feels like I'm always stuck at home.
k7zpj
RCC Addict
It is the Lack V2 enclosure with a few mods to make hinges a bit stronger and a couple teaks to the filament rollers. https://blog.prusaprinters.org/mmu2s-printer-enclosure/
Printed solid has a good price on the plexiglass panels cut to size.
This is what the printer table looked like pre-enclousre. A bit messy but it worked. However, it took up most of the table for filament holders.
It is the Lack V2 enclosure with a few mods to make hinges a bit stronger and a couple teaks to the filament rollers. https://blog.prusaprinters.org/mmu2s-printer-enclosure/
Printed solid has a good price on the plexiglass panels cut to size.
This is what the printer table looked like pre-enclousre. A bit messy but it worked. However, it took up most of the table for filament holders.
Geezzzz…. I was hoping someone who was serious about 3D printing would post up... :roll:
Seriously man, awesome setups there!!!! "thumbsup"
Do you do any external heating, or just have the enclosures to trap in the cast-off heat from the bed?
On a side note...
How active is the Ham community there? I have been trying to find a group up here to get my license renewed, but all of the sites that are up here list testing and event dates from 2014...
