You will have to buy one and hack it yourself, or do this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flysky-FS-...274637?hash=item3d90ad31cd:g:J64AAOSwG4pcpo5e
"thumbsup"
Ernie
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread
- Thread starter losikid
- Start date
You will have to buy one and hack it yourself, or do this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flysky-FS-...274637?hash=item3d90ad31cd:g:J64AAOSwG4pcpo5e
"thumbsup"
Ernie
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
As Ernie said, buy or do it yourself.
That said I just did.
Ebay.......GT3b for $31.00 shipped
Ebay.......ST-Link V2 Programming Unit 4.95 shipped
Ebay ......DC DC CONVERTER 5V 5W 7.49 shipped
2s 2200mah lipo (had)...($10.00Ebay)
I chose the b vs the c as I was going to add a bigger LiPo.
There are many easy videos to follow, the programmer comes with lead wires. You do need a good micro tip soldering iron and know how to solder. Realistically I did all the mods , bound it, and set it up for winching and a lipo battery, and soldered new battery connector in. Time was about 1/2 hour to mod, 1 hour to learn and setup new menu.
I had a 2s 2200 that fit, any thin 2s or 3s will work as you can now set battery voltage and low voltage alarm.
Last edited:
As Ernie said, buy or do it yourself.
That said I just did.
Ebay.......GT3b for $31.00 shipped
Ebay.......ST-Link V2 Programming Unit 4.95 shipped
Ebay ......DC DC CONVERTER 5V 5W 7.49 shipped
2s 2200mah lipo (had)...($10.00Ebay)
I chose the b vs the c as I was going to add a bigger LiPo.
There are many easy videos to follow, the programmer comes with lead wires. You do need a good micro tip soldering iron and know how to solder. Realistically I did all the mods , bound it, and set it up for winching and a lipo battery, and soldered new battery connector in. Time was about 1/2 hour to mod, 1 hour to learn and setup new menu.
I had a 2s 2200 that fit, any thin 2s or 3s will work as you can now set battery voltage and low voltage alarm.
"thumbsup" I've hacked 4 of them.
Ernie
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Ernie, I hacked it, but when set to 8 channels, none show up on the “rev enter L “ so I can’t set my lights on ch 4.
Firmware shows 6, I can set for 8 channels, cal and all other work fine. I just want to assign a button for ch4
Hang up and Drive
Firmware shows 6, I can set for 8 channels, cal and all other work fine. I just want to assign a button for ch4
Hang up and Drive
Have you seen this youtube, it may help you out. I know it is geared toward setting up for a TRX4, but he does A good job explaining channel set up. I refer to it all the time. Hope that helps. "thumbsup"
Ernie
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SpIoLgmI1xw&t=44s
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Watched it , I can’t get to channels 45678 , when scrolling, goes to ch3 no other channels
Hang up and Drive
Did you try setting it up to 8 channels again, sounds like maybe your radio is only set to 3 channels.
Another good vid. FlySky GT3B GT3C Turnigy GTX3 Hack Firmware Setup Configuration Guide
Last edited:
Hi everyone.. I bought my GT3B over a year ago from overkillrc with the older type SMT8 thing... Anyway, I did the mod last night. Everything went perfect. Afterwards, I calibrated and tested my NIMH batteries which read 10v.. My charger charges them to AA's 1.5v... After that I programmed a model and went through the menus and set the low voltage to 8.8v.
I messed with the LOCK feature (very last option in firmware menu, or first one to the left) which locks the buttons until you hold down enter for a second or two. I figured this would be useful until I got used to NOT hitting the ch3 button and trims with my thumb. After holding enter down and unlocking, I figured I had to go back into the menu to lock it again because it stayed unlocked.
Well. Today, I try to drive my truck and the radio turns on, then after about 10 seconds, dies, kinda.. The backlight goes dim but when I press buttons I cant get the light to brighten up or anything to change on the screen. After powering off, I cant power on again until after about 10+ minutes.
So, I took it apart and was looking for things and the antenna fell off.. Could the antenna being loose burned my TX and this is why its behaving like this?
I soldered it back on WAY BETTER than it was but it still does this.. I am going out to try it now, its been about 20 mins so it should turn on again.
I will get video in case someone wants to see whats going on.
I hope someone can help me with this.
I messed with the LOCK feature (very last option in firmware menu, or first one to the left) which locks the buttons until you hold down enter for a second or two. I figured this would be useful until I got used to NOT hitting the ch3 button and trims with my thumb. After holding enter down and unlocking, I figured I had to go back into the menu to lock it again because it stayed unlocked.
Well. Today, I try to drive my truck and the radio turns on, then after about 10 seconds, dies, kinda.. The backlight goes dim but when I press buttons I cant get the light to brighten up or anything to change on the screen. After powering off, I cant power on again until after about 10+ minutes.
So, I took it apart and was looking for things and the antenna fell off.. Could the antenna being loose burned my TX and this is why its behaving like this?
I soldered it back on WAY BETTER than it was but it still does this.. I am going out to try it now, its been about 20 mins so it should turn on again.
I will get video in case someone wants to see whats going on.
I hope someone can help me with this.
Last edited:
Cesco
Quarry Creeper
Between 8 and 35 seconds Joe from Exocaged RC explaines how to set up for 8 channels. I had trouble with this also at first, but this explained a lot for me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SpIoLgmI1xw&t=8s
You have to do this for every other car you add to your radio. So let's say you are gonna use your Flysky GT3B or GT3C with the hacked firmware for 5 of your RC cars. Than you have to do this for every car you connect / bind.
Depending on the receiver being a 3, 6 or 8 channel receiver you set it up for 3, 6 or 8 channels on your radio. So if car A has a 8 channel receiver, you bind it to your radio and you set your radio up for that car on 8 channels. Car B has a 3 channel receiver, set it up for 3 channels, etcetera.
Now, if for some reason after watching the video you are unable to set up the Flysky radio for 6 or 8 channels, than you need to redo the firmware hack procedure. It happened to me to, for some reason, after going back to the original firmware and than redo the hacked firmware it worked for me.
I have 5 hacked Flysky GT3C for around 5 years now, it was a learning proces but I love these radios. Cheap, light, good range and with the hacked firmware very complete.
Some other helpfull videos out there:
kenVersus
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oxODTOkecE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5mZ3898ZNQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrUYTxYjflM (at 1:20 he also shows how to check if you are indeed updated to the 8ch hack firmware! An he show how to select the 8 channels)
Team Ingel
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BG-5BPqqltg
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
I’m gonna reflash it tonight. Everything but switch sets for. Channels 4-8.
I come to ch3, just no 4567or 8
Hang up and Drive
I come to ch3, just no 4567or 8
Hang up and Drive
Have you ever had what I described above your post?
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Reflash and Verify twice, All functions seem perfect.
started setting up and throttle was wonky....Then I remembered I have to calibrate, then all was well.
winch on trim lights on dr."thumbsup""thumbsup":mrgreen:
Last edited:
Cesco
Quarry Creeper
No, I never run into that problem.
Cesco
Quarry Creeper
"thumbsup" Great that the reflash worked out ok for you! "thumbsup"
Update to this if anyone cares...
Ordered a new GT3B and was going to pull the ole "swap boards" and return..
So I swapped boards, soldering the TINY antenna's better than they came, put everything back together, threw batteries in the messed up one just to see what would happen, and now it WORKS... They both work...
Ummm.. So I guess it was the antenna...
Only difference in the two gt3b's i found was the battery bay is a bit different between the two...
Poconoscale
Newbie
Having a few issues adjusting 4ws trims.
In front wheel steering I can adjust my trims to get the front and rear steering centered. Then when I switch to rear wheel steering the rear stays centered and the front kicks out a few degrees. If I go in an adjust my steering in in rear wheel, then when I switch back to front or 4ws the front is kicked to the opposite side about the same amount I readjusted for in rear wheel steering.
What am I over looking? Is this a dead band issue?
In front wheel steering I can adjust my trims to get the front and rear steering centered. Then when I switch to rear wheel steering the rear stays centered and the front kicks out a few degrees. If I go in an adjust my steering in in rear wheel, then when I switch back to front or 4ws the front is kicked to the opposite side about the same amount I readjusted for in rear wheel steering.
What am I over looking? Is this a dead band issue?
JoJo513
Newbie
Hi all, newbie here and had a question for you all. About a year ago i flashed my GT3-B radio so I can use more channels on my TRX-4 Bronco. To do things like a servo winch and the shifting/locker servos. I'd like to trailer around a small 1/24th scale truck or boat on a trailer and be able to switch between the two vehicles on the fly.
But whenever I change the model on the controller. It just changes the settings and stays bound to both receivers running them in unison.
Is there a way I can switch from driving my truck to my boat by simply changing model channels on the controller without winding up driving them both at the same time?
Or am I stuck with having to turn one off to drive the other or carry two controllers with me?
But whenever I change the model on the controller. It just changes the settings and stays bound to both receivers running them in unison.
Is there a way I can switch from driving my truck to my boat by simply changing model channels on the controller without winding up driving them both at the same time?
Or am I stuck with having to turn one off to drive the other or carry two controllers with me?
