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Axial 1/18 Yeti (and Yeti Score)

In case anyone was wondering, the Tactic TX300 radio (from any other Axial RTR) will bind straight to the stock electronics. It feels like a high end radio after using the awful stock one for about 5 minutes.

Of course, most people will be tossing more of the stock electronics than just the radio. :mrgreen:
 
In case anyone was wondering, the Tactic TX300 radio (from any other Axial RTR) will bind straight to the stock electronics. It feels like a high end radio after using the awful stock one for about 5 minutes.

That's really good to know. The battery for my Score Jr. is sitting underneath my desk, charging right now. When it's done, I'll pop the AA batteries into the stock transmitter and take it for its first run. I have a stock RTR radio left over from my Bomber that'll be a good match for my subsequent runs. Thanks for giving this tip.
 
Everyone! Stop what your doing and immediately slap a new esc that is 3s capable in it and go bash. Holy crap this was a brilliant idea! So freaking fun on 3s
 
Just broke a rear axle shaft and there seems to be nowhere to get one. I'm not pissed it broke just bummed I can't use the truck till I find a replacement. Watch out for high grip surfaces and extreme brushless power =)
 
so whats the best servo for this yeti jr something that'll drop right in?thanks

Apparently the answer is something with the dimensions of 22.8X12.0X25.4, but with more than Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 30.6. When I purchased a Yeti Jr. Trophy last night at my local hobby shop, these are the specifications of the best micro server they had available - a Savox 253. It does a marginally better job than the stock servo at centering the wheels. I'm going to need something more powerful.

I learned today that both the stock servo and the Savox 253 do not like the cold. When I ran the Yeti Jr. last night when it was -4 with the stock servo it stopped moving the wheels. I assumed it was bad, installed the Savox and had the same result. Today, I removed the stock receiver/ESC, installed a different receiver and a Dynamite WP 60A and experienced the same thing when it was 22 degrees. Both servos acted fine (except for not centering) when I ran the truck inside my office building. I have not encountered this with any of my vehicles with full-sized servos. I guess the Yeti Jr. questions my sanity.
 
I learned today that both the stock servo and the Savox 253 do not like the cold. When I ran the Yeti Jr. last night when it was -4 with the stock servo it stopped moving the wheels. I assumed it was bad, installed the Savox and had the same result. Today, I removed the stock receiver/ESC, installed a different receiver and a Dynamite WP 60A and experienced the same thing when it was 22 degrees. Both servos acted fine (except for not centering) when I ran the truck inside my office building. I have not encountered this with any of my vehicles with full-sized servos. I guess the Yeti Jr. questions my sanity.

Did you reuse the stock servo saver?

The spring in the servo saver is incredibly weak and is as much to blame for the mushy steering as the weak servo. Any extra steering torque would just be wasted by the servo saver.
 
Picked up a hitec 225mg (67oz at 6v). Standard 24t spline and 2.6mm servo screw. Also picked up losi mrc servo posts.
 
Did you reuse the stock servo saver?

The spring in the servo saver is incredibly weak and is as much to blame for the mushy steering as the weak servo. Any extra steering torque would just be wasted by the servo saver.

Does this mean that I should remove the servo saver and in the interest of gaining better/more consistent steering just accept the risk of destroying more servos?

Is it possible that the cold air is causing something else in the steering to contract or bind and overwhelming the small amount of torque generating by the servo?
 
Does this mean that I should remove the servo saver and in the interest of gaining better/more consistent steering just accept the risk of destroying more servos?

Yes, absolutely.

Between the plastic tierods, steering rack, and steering link, there is more than enough flex in the steering system to absorb crashes. The ball cups will also pop off in a big enough crash to prevent too much strain on the servo. I have no worries of ruining a quality metal gear servo in this truck (or any of my trucks for that matter) by not running a servo saver.
 
I got the HS-85MG installed tonight with a Dynamite servo arm. Also has the larger holes so the ball joint dropped right in. Wow, the truck turns great now. I decided to cut off the motor plugs and soldered them direct to the motor. I'm not sure if I missed it in the thread, but to get the HS-85mg installed with the stock ESC case, I had to use a cut off wheel/Dremel off the servo ear from the ESC case to get it to fit as the servo is wider. No problem. The ear I cut off I still used to mount the servo.

maxxpain-15603-albums412-63316.jpg

MaxxPain is the HS-85MG 24 t or 25? thanks
 
just ordered quickrun 1625 brushed esc $23,flysky transmitter, reciever n power HD 1711 servo. if it works out i'll have to order 2 more of everything. i should've stayed in the 1/10 scale
 
Apparently the answer is something with the dimensions of 22.8X12.0X25.4, but with more than Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 30.6. When I purchased a Yeti Jr. Trophy last night at my local hobby shop, these are the specifications of the best micro server they had available - a Savox 253. It does a marginally better job than the stock servo at centering the wheels. I'm going to need something more powerful.



I learned today that both the stock servo and the Savox 253 do not like the cold. When I ran the Yeti Jr. last night when it was -4 with the stock servo it stopped moving the wheels. I assumed it was bad, installed the Savox and had the same result. Today, I removed the stock receiver/ESC, installed a different receiver and a Dynamite WP 60A and experienced the same thing when it was 22 degrees. Both servos acted fine (except for not centering) when I ran the truck inside my office building. I have not encountered this with any of my vehicles with full-sized servos. I guess the Yeti Jr. questions my sanity.



Ive found that the steering linkages are tight and add to the drag. Next time you remove the servo linkage swing your steering and note how tight it is. Add subzero temps and that plastic would be even tighter. I've spun the ball ends with a ball and some graphite to try to loosen the steering. Helped a bit.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
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