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Heavier Truck for towing a trailer?

Yeah there solid I couldn't figure a way to make them spin seperate.

I don't have a problem turning per say it's when I'm in the turn I have an issue...granted it may very well be the trailer and how I made it so can't be fixed just something I have to deal with but right now I'm thinking my tow truck is to light.....thanks for the tip though. I'll keep thinking of a way to do that.

Sent From My Galaxy S6 Edge+
 
Although now that n I think about it the way I have the axles I could make them move seperate....hmmmm wonder if that would help with my jack knifing issue a bit. Something to think about.
Still think I'm to light as well and I do have weights on the way.
Sent From My Galaxy S6 Edge+
 
Your front diff being locked could be contributing to the problem. It may be causing the initial loss of front end traction, which then leads to the push you're getting.

'Separating' the axles so front/rear run independently isn't likely the problem.

Maybe. Tough to say for sure..

You'd need to find a way to disco your front diff to see an improvement through this process and I don't think there's an easy way to do that on those axles.
 
Rigid axles on the trailer can definitely be an issue, the trailer wants to go straight and the more weight on it, the stronger the effect. You have to scrub the tires to turn it. Not just side-scrub, from twisting, but the outer tires are trying to make a bigger circle. The sharper the truck turns, the more resistance it will feel.
 
Your front diff being locked could be contributing to the problem. It may be causing the initial loss of front end traction, which then leads to the push you're getting.

'Separating' the axles so front/rear run independently isn't likely the problem.

Maybe. Tough to say for sure..

You'd need to find a way to disco your front diff to see an improvement through this process and I don't think there's an easy way to do that on those axles.
Probably won't do that I would like to keep the locked 4 wd.
Rigid axles on the trailer can definitely be an issue, the trailer wants to go straight and the more weight on it, the stronger the effect. You have to scrub the tires to turn it. Not just side-scrub, from twisting, but the outer tires are trying to make a bigger circle. The sharper the truck turns, the more resistance it will feel.
Well I suppose the only way to find out if it helps is to make it happen lol. I think I can remove the middle section of my trailers axles and still be good I hope I just hope I don't loose any stability in the axles if I do.

Sent From My Galaxy S6 Edge+
 
definetly want those trailer tires to be able to spin independently. If you have pins in the 12mm hexes on the trailers axles (if you even have the setup I am thinking of) take them out so each tire can freewheel on the axle.

Even when my tow rig was a stock honcho, it was able to pull the wraith and trailer just fine. But Naturally, a heavier rig will more easily pull heavier loads.
Screen%20Shot%202016-08-03%20at%202.22.31%20PM.jpg
 
I tired removing some of the middle of rhe axle but there was no support on the otherside of the bracket that the rod spines in.



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You could use a couple of pieces of metal tubing, just bigger than your axles. Cut the axles in the middle (clean up the ends) and slide the tubing over the axles. You can glue the tube to one side of the axles. The nuts will keep them from running out and they'll touch in the middle to keep the wheels from running in. I would grease the axles in the un-glued ends of the tubes so the axles can spin inside the tubes, then the two sides will be independent of each other. :D
 
You could use a couple of pieces of metal tubing, just bigger than your axles. Cut the axles in the middle (clean up the ends) and slide the tubing over the axles. You can glue the tube to one side of the axles. The nuts will keep them from running out and they'll touch in the middle to keep the wheels from running in. I would grease the axles in the un-glued ends of the tubes so the axles can spin inside the tubes, then the two sides will be independent of each other. :D

not quite understanding what you mean, or not seeing it...lol
 
The tubing will be like a pipe coupler, but instead of pipe it connects the two halves of the axle. You just fasten one side so it doesn't slide back and forth, and the other just slips into the tubing and spins freely. :)


8)
 
I tired removing some of the middle of rhe axle but there was no support on the otherside of the bracket that the rod spines in.



1. Drill out the hexes so they work like bearings, easiest fix but not the best option. Maybe use metal hexes for longer life.
2. Add another set of axle hangers near the center of the trailer, say 1" apart. Cut your axles in the middle and then trim another 1/4" off of them. Use a lock nut with a teflon washer on either side of the inner hangers and this solves for thrust. Have this part also span the width of the trailer (up to the existing axle carriers). Flat bar and angle iron if you don't have access to sheet metal equipment. Problem is now solved for the posi-traction trailer. It can even be a bolt together/bolt on item if should you choose so.
 
so something like this? the braces will support the middle and keep if from being floppy.



not sure what the nut and teflon washer is for, or what you mean by it spanning the width of the trailer part.
 
so something like this? the braces will support the middle and keep if from being floppy.



not sure what the nut and teflon washer is for, or what you mean by it spanning the width of the trailer part.

Yes. Looks like your trailer is made from 20 ga. material, so add a piece of flat bar that goes across from existing axle support to the other, left to right. Use a piece of angle iron on either side like you marked in black. The teflon washers are to reduce the bind of the lock nuts holding the stuff together on the inside piece, the hanger. I'll do a sketch for you and post it up for you.
 


Hopefully this is self explanatory.

wow, thanks that drawing is awesome "thumbsup"

now should i jb weld the nuts like i have done with a little space cause if i tighten them down they won't spin freely. or is that what the teflon washers allow for?
 
One more thing, you need to make sure that the holes in the angle iron that make up the center sections need to finish out at the same height as the existing holes so the tires are square to the world if you will. Run the axle through the existing hangers. With the flat bar in the bottom, set the angles so you can transfer the top and bottom of the axle to it, so when you drill them the axle can go through all 4 holes without binding. This gives you the top and bottom of your hole, so get the center from there. "thumbsup"
 
wow, thanks that drawing is awesome "thumbsup"

now should i jb weld the nuts like i have done with a little space cause if i tighten them down they won't spin freely. or is that what the teflon washers allow for?

Teflon is to reduce friction of metal to metal where you are using nuts since there appears to be no bearings. Use nylocks, you will have to tighten to what feels right to you . NO JB WELD!!!
 
Teflon is to reduce friction of metal to metal where you are using nuts since there appears to be no bearings. Use nylocks, you will have to tighten to what feels right to you . NO JB WELD!!!

No, no bearings wanted to use them though.

Thanks again, i may or may not have to just redo the axles like in the drawing well see how difficult it will be to add those other hangers to the middle and get things all lined up. before i just lined them up and drilled though all 4 pieces at the same time to make sure the holes all lined up right.

Again thank you for the drawing it helped alot.
 
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