what are a must upgrades on axial ax10??

[dhall1591]

Its got the battery, esc, and bec zip tied to the frame. What mounts do I need to get those secure.

Also, what are some upgrades I need to do first. I got a 250 oz steering servo, replacement axial shock and drive shafts. I've already found that the stock drive shafts don't hold to the torque of my crawler. Looking for a good, budget priced drive shafts and must do upgrades to crawl.

 

[jboehler04]

replace the screws in the chubs and knuckles with machine screws, replace stock dogbones with universals, replace tires, and i would replace plastic suspension and steering links with metal ones. get on axials website and read benders blogs for upgrades. also theres an ax10 specific thread on here that you can browse thru and see what people have done. most of it is gonna be ur preference just cuz a setup works for one person doesnt mean the next will like it. for example some people love the stock ripsaw tires and i tried benders upgrade on cutting them and didnt like them at all. but get in the ax10 specific thread and read up on some builds.

 

[greenjk]

Steel gears in the trans and steel outputs if you don't have them.

 

[dhall1591]

Okay, thanks guys. I got a list now. I've upgraded steering servo and the motor I believe gas been upgraded, it says "crawler on the bec and motor, it'll sling gravel. What are some electrical upgrades needed?

 

[jboehler04]

Personally I like the axial electronics. The only reason I would replace mine is if I went brush less. But no problems with my electronics.

 

[dhall1591]

Where can I get mounting hardware?

 

[Charlie-III]

Where can I get mounting hardware?

Mounting hardware for what??

 

[Hardline]

Post a couple pictures of what you've got, body off.

A good initial mounting technique for electronics is cut a lexan or other plastic tray to fit on the upper links, front and rear. If you already have 4-link, use two slightly loose cable ties on one link and only one on the other side to keep things flexible. Your battery, esc, receiver and ext bec can be velcro'd to these plates to lower CG. There are fancier ways to do this, but these plates are an easy first step.

None of the things previously mentioned are must have. Best plan is to just upgrade things that break on you. Only after you're sure it wasn't your fault. Ultimately you'll want the latest and greatest carbon fiber chassis and XR steering upgrade. But unless you're comping at a high level, put all that stuff off until later and just tweak what you have as it becomes necessary. And read all the builds on the AX10 sub-forum, starting with maybe 3 years ago for the basics. It will all come together for you as you read more.

This thread should be stickied for a newbi primer. It's a classic. Not what we're building today, but an excellent place to start:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-ax-10-scorpion/250144-k-o-m-s-newbie-comp-build.html



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[SINister]

Where can I get mounting hardware?

Fastener Express - Socket Head Cap Screws, Metric Screws , Fasteners and Anodized Aluminum for the Hobby Industry.

Like Hardline said upgrade as you break. I bought an original ax10 kit when they first came out and have only broke a couple knuckles when I modded the steering to go beyond stock. It's been a comp rig and recently converted to an scx10 still on the original trans and axle parts.

 

[babristow]

Honestly I had so much fun with my ax10 and really regret selling it. My main recommendations would be links as previously said. Steering links. And weight in the front wheels. Just remember there is definitely such a thing as too much weight. I personally used one stick/front. It didn't wrap all the way around the 2.2s so I had to break them in half and space them out. Weight is good but as I said, too much weight can hinder your performance. I trimmed up my body too. But that was more for personal aesthetics. A little trimming may be necessary for rubbing though. Down the road I would invest in some good tires. I still love my hot bodies on my MOA. Still working like champs. And some good tire foams. You don't have to throw incredible money at it if you don't want to. Drive it and drive it some more to learn its characteristics and figure out what you want from there. Good luck.

 

[jboehler04]

None of the things previously mentioned are must have. Best plan is to just upgrade things that break on you.
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I beg to differ. As I previously mentioned the screws are a must upgrade so you don't lose a knuckle and break it. The universals are needed again to help reduce breaking a knuckle. The stock ripsaw tires suck. IDC what anyone has to say about them. I was highly disappointed with them. And yea you can get away with the stock plastic suspension links but the steering link is a must upgrade. Way too much flex in the plastic and will burn up ur servo.

IMHO these are must have upgrades and most are to help from breaking something else. Besides why cut your day out crawling short cuz your goin with a don't replace it till its broke motto. Fix the weak links in the rig first so you can have a fun full day crawling. Jus my .02

Oh BTW another must have upgrade if you already upgraded ur servo would be a clamping servo horn. The plastic ones do strip out no matter how careful u think ur being. Especially if you put a higher torque servo in and get some different tires.

 

[Hardline]

You can differ all you want. It's a free country (well, sorta). But my evidence that machine screws are not a MUST HAVE is I don't have them and I've been comping my Gatekeeper for three years without a problem. Given that, what's your definition of a MUST HAVE? Not saying the machine screws aren't an improvement. Just not necessary if you check all your fasteners frequently -- which is a MUST in my book.

I think the closest thing to a must have is some attention to the drive shafts. Actually I ran stock ones for over a year before I broke an ear off. But friends and competitors have had much worse luck. I'm still only running plastic Stampede double-female replacements, but others have kicked it up to reinforced Wild Boars or MIPs. I've bought, but haven't installed a Maxx driveshaft kit from Crawler Innovations. It's pricey and takes a little effort to install. But it's a common "big-dog" upgrade.

 

[Brick Top]

For the driveshafts popping off, you can try wrapping a zip tie around the "ears" where they connect to the u-joint. There are also metal sleeves that Axial makes that clip over and do the same thing. I just raided a box of old traxxas shafts and cobbled something together that worked.