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yeti rear diff.

newnan_basher

Newbie
Joined
Nov 11, 2015
Messages
11
Location
Newnan, GA
hi all,

i would like to ask if there is a way to use "unlocked" diffs with the yeti's ar60 axle? would the front diff fit the ar60?

hoping to hear from y'all.

"thumbsup"
 
I can see running the rear diff open, but I can't see keeping diff oil in it. The front differential axle-outputs (dog bone cups) have indents in the shaft to hold an o-ring. The straight axle shafts don't have an indent. I think running diff fluid in the solid rear axle would just make a mess. Maybe use a thick grease in the rear diff.
 
My setup is more than just an open diff in the rear, but I upgraded the diff housing to the GCM one which includes thrust washers and run 2,000,000wt diff fluid and love it!

GCM Machine Axial Yeti and EXO Buggy Front/Rear/Center Diff Upgrade Kit GR0085 (includes one diff cup only)



Lighter fluids will leak out a bit, but the fluid/putty I'm running doesn't at all that I can see.


what brand of diff fluid are you using? i've been looking for a 2Million wt diff fluid for a while now. all i can see are a million wt. would that be enough?
 
You can get 2,000,000wt at AsiaTees and the diff is a GCM Machine unit I bought from TCS Crawlers.

GCM Machine Axial Yeti and EXO Buggy Front/Rear/Center Diff Upgrade Kit GR0085 (includes one diff cup only)

It is by far the best diff housing on the market. It isn't just an aluminum version of the factory plastic diff. It's machined to accept thrust washers which isolate the friction at the spider gear from the aluminum housing. I'm sure I run mine unlike anyone else. I run the HPI diff gears and set them up in a spare diff not using a gasket, fill it with silly putty, chuck a spare rear axle to a drill and spin it up for about 5 minutes. Doing this polishes up the gears and be carefull, it gets really hot! One way to strengthen a gear is to polish out the microscopic ridges in metal because steel failures almost always starts from the valley of these ridges from fatigue making it a crack over time. This is a tried and true way to strengthen steel. I also skip the thrust washer on the ring gear side to allow me to run without a gasket and tighten the gear mesh at the same time. I'm filling it with 2,000,000wt fluid and don't car if it's on the tighter side with the gears and it still has a little backlash. I'm doing what I can so the diff doesn't unload, so it's not like it's going to see high RPMs in the diff gear system. I use a thin cote of Ultra Gray sealant between the ring gear and housing. Not running a gasket also means I have eliminated all deflection of housing from the ring gear that would allow my R&P mesh to grow. I can't imagine a beefier setup unless someone produced hardened steel spider gears, which I will run if someone makes them.

I know, that's alot of BS to put into my build, but I actually enjoy figuring out the best way to build anything I assemble. I even use Boca ceramic bearings throughout, even swapping out the supplied oversized bearing Vanquish supplies with the alum. V2 AR60 axle housing with an ABEC 7 Boca ceramic $20 bearing. On top of that I shim both the ring gear and pinion depth just as I would in the full scale axles I've built over the years. The last time I took off the cover, I couldn't find even a little wear of the ring gear. My rear axle is a beast! Haven't stripped any gears since this setup.
 
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