Hey guys just been real busy have been reading the posts but not much time to reply. So almost all issues have been corrected and it may be all of them and I just dont know how it all comes together. I have both motors spinning at same time and speed in reverse and in forward they spin the same speed but at low throttle opening the front begins to spin first. Ill try and get some video up at some point. Thanks for the help. I have to give some extra thanks to tapped-out. he pm'd me and took his own time sending me info and links from youtube and holmes hobbies and others. I appreciate all the help keep you posted. I will start a build thread soon.
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Xr10 build few issues
- Thread starter J21
- Start date
Im trying to upload some video from my phone but here is the text for the video. I went in to my hh esc with the castle link to make some adjustments. I adjusted the drag brake and a few other things. I then did a quick test and found the braking was still a little strong for me. Later that night i made some more adjustments but when I went to test something went haywire. My front wheels started turning opposite of my rear, made some changes then only one set of wheels would turn at a time one axle would go forward but not reverse and vise versa for the other axle. I set esc back to stock and re calibrated still no use. I then reset the tx and started fresh then calibrated the esc's again and now back to working ok but not even to what it was just a few days ago. I have re calibrated the esc's 3 or 4 times now but same result. The front spins first in forward and the the rear spins first in reverse and in reverse the rear spins noticeably faster it will do complete rotations without the front ever moving. I tried moving the esc's to different positions on the rx but same result. Maybe this is just normal and I just think that something is wrong. having some issues with phone will try again later.
I have another tuning question. It seems to be that the previous problems have been eliminated for the most part. I have noticed while on the rocks my rear end seems to over power the front. This seems to happen more noticeably on downhills but it does happen everywhere. It seems to happen when the front has enough resistance against it that the front wheels can't just roll right over. The front seems not bind up get over powered by the rear. The front doesn't seem to turn with enough power soon enough and the rear starts pushing the front end off line. I would also say this only really makes a difference while turning or on a off camber while a line straight ahead would not matter. To the naked eye my wheels turn at the same time and speed front and rear( i have put tape on the tires to do a visual test). My motors are both set at what i would believe is 6 degree timing mark and both have a 14t pinion. Just wondering what you may recommend. Throttle mixing on the tx, or going up or down a tooth on gearing and which gear would be the best to change or anything else?
^^^
Yup what Curcal said ..... I have mine dialed out some on the rear so I overdrive the front.
If you don't like doing it with trim settings to the rear esc you can try going up one tooth in the rear motor. This should slow it down a little but I wouldn't go more then a tooth different between the two.
Ok thanks. I'm just getting out crawling and notice things that may seem a bit abnormal like this issue but without a lot of experience it sounds like may be the norm and I don't have any problems.
So I have a flysky gt3c with the upgraded firmware. It seems to work well and think it has the potential to be a good tx. And it's not a knock on the flysky or the firmware but I think to use it to its potential it's a little bit above my tech understanding. I haven't used the more expensive spectrums, futaba, or aerotronics, but some of the videos seem like the menus and settings are made a little more user friendly for the average Joe like me. I understand the concept and what things I want to adjust it's just the lingo and and all the extra steps needed to go threw that get me lost with the upgraded flysky since the menu and original system was not intended for all the extras it has now. It kinda reminds me of old Nintendo or Sega codes to get to there last level or three biggest weapon, hold down a, press up twice, down once up three times then hit start, that now gives mario all time fireballs. Like I said I'm not knocking the flysky just is a little bit above my head. And it seems every time I adjust something with it or at least try to adjust or make a new setting I get something all screwed up and have to reset the tx and start all over and set everything again. So now that it's working I'm scared to mess with anything on it. That being said what you are talking about would be say setting the front at 100 percent and the back at a lower setting of 80 or so.
So I have a flysky gt3c with the upgraded firmware. It seems to work well and think it has the potential to be a good tx. And it's not a knock on the flysky or the firmware but I think to use it to its potential it's a little bit above my tech understanding. I haven't used the more expensive spectrums, futaba, or aerotronics, but some of the videos seem like the menus and settings are made a little more user friendly for the average Joe like me. I understand the concept and what things I want to adjust it's just the lingo and and all the extra steps needed to go threw that get me lost with the upgraded flysky since the menu and original system was not intended for all the extras it has now. It kinda reminds me of old Nintendo or Sega codes to get to there last level or three biggest weapon, hold down a, press up twice, down once up three times then hit start, that now gives mario all time fireballs. Like I said I'm not knocking the flysky just is a little bit above my head. And it seems every time I adjust something with it or at least try to adjust or make a new setting I get something all screwed up and have to reset the tx and start all over and set everything again. So now that it's working I'm scared to mess with anything on it. That being said what you are talking about would be say setting the front at 100 percent and the back at a lower setting of 80 or so.
Something you can do to help you out with keeping your original model settings but having an extra model which is a copy of the original setting to experiment on. Take a look at this vid (you should watch the whole thing) and at 10:30 he will explain what you need. I'm going through the same learning curve as well, good luck!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BG-5BPqqltg
White cobra
Newbie
Mr
Thank you for the link. Found this thread as I had this same problem. Didn't see a answer but this link lead me to it! For regular dig, you must be in profile 1, and the part I missed, you must work the 3 way switch after calibrating F & R for the esc to finish calibrating.
Profile 2 is the default and is proportional dig, that's why the different tire speeds and late start on 1 axle.
Thank you for the link. Found this thread as I had this same problem. Didn't see a answer but this link lead me to it! For regular dig, you must be in profile 1, and the part I missed, you must work the 3 way switch after calibrating F & R for the esc to finish calibrating.
Profile 2 is the default and is proportional dig, that's why the different tire speeds and late start on 1 axle.
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