JerryIRacer
Rock Stacker
What I would like to change yet is to get smaller tires and different offset wheels to have them more within wheel wells and lower suspension a bit for more scale look
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WPL C14
- Thread starter Brake Weight
- Start date
Don Promillo
Newbie
I had no luck with painting streaks, it looked like crap in the end. What did work however was the hairspray and salt method. Unlike the streaking, salting was much much easier than I thought.
Truck is looking good! I'm going to do something to both of mine for weathering at some point after I get the drive train finished on the C14, I've come up with a way to put bearings on the stock axles that come with the brass ring and pinion still finishing that up so look for that soon.I am done with mine. I wanted to try some weathering techniques. It is harder than most tutorials promise it to be. My first attempt was complete failure. For some reason guy in the video was painting dirt streaks with a brush and they looked like like dirt streaks, but when I was doing the same thing it looked like paint brush marks [emoji38] I decided to wash the body off and start over. Initially I wanted some rust, a bit of dirt and some depth and age. It came out as completely dirty and neglected instead of old and used. I guess I will practice some more on next project - I am thinking about getting one of WPL 6x6s...
I just figured out (and tested) the candle wax method for waterproofing electronics. I tried it on my FS-GR3E receiver. You just melt some wax and let it drip on the board and all of the delicate electronic parts. My receiver works great after cleaning the contact prongs with a wire brush after covering the whole thing in wax I submerged it and it still works fine. If you want less of a mess, rubber cement works good too. Just make sure you let it dry first because it's flammable. I have tried both methods and they work great. Just make sure you cover every inch of the board.
I also got a text update on my truck's shipping. It's supposed to be here by monday. I also ordered an ESC on ebay
I also got a text update on my truck's shipping. It's supposed to be here by monday. I also ordered an ESC on ebay
JerryIRacer
Rock Stacker
Those axles I linked before are available on ebay for $75 a set:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Front-Middle-Rear-Bridge-Axle-Kit-For-WPL-B1-B14-B16-B24-C14-C24-B36-RC/233099103705?hash=item3645ca0dd9:rk:39
f:0&var
We are getting closer to reasonable price...
CD, good tip on sealing electronics, I just dont know if I want to go that far yet
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Front-Middle-Rear-Bridge-Axle-Kit-For-WPL-B1-B14-B16-B24-C14-C24-B36-RC/233099103705?hash=item3645ca0dd9:rk:39
f:0&varWe are getting closer to reasonable price...
CD, good tip on sealing electronics, I just dont know if I want to go that far yet
Those axles I linked before are available on ebay for $75 a set:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Front-Middle-Rear-Bridge-Axle-Kit-For-WPL-B1-B14-B16-B24-C14-C24-B36-RC/233099103705?hash=item3645ca0dd9:rk:39
We are getting closer to reasonable price...
CD, good tip on sealing electronics, I just dont know if I want to go that far yet
I get those axles help keep the COG low and they get snagged on less stuff, But I would pay no more than $35 for a set of these. I would just recommend getting wheel weights.
As for the waterproofing experiments, I am super bored waiting for my truck to arrive so I figured I might as well prepare what I have for this build. And I also have a couple of extra receivers laying around. My test mule is one that I reversed powered with a 1s lipo and it blew a ceramic capacitor or something. So I figured I have nothing to lose. Somehow it still works. I am likely going to put that in my truck because if it fails while driving, I would rather it be in a crawler than flying down the street going 50mph in my 1/10 truck
Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
Wpl c14
BTW, those linked above are for a 6x6.
Less than $20usd better? You’ll have to rerun your plastic knuckles and I have no idea about the fitment of swapping the stock bits over.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/113559462157
BTW, those linked above are for a 6x6.
Less than $20usd better? You’ll have to rerun your plastic knuckles and I have no idea about the fitment of swapping the stock bits over.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/113559462157
Re: Wpl c14
Yeah I just realized there were three of them. I don't see a difference between the two set's other than the middle axle on the 6x6. You honestly could just buy two sets for the c14 and put the original 6x6 plastic output covers. It would be cheaper, right?
Yeah I just realized there were three of them. I don't see a difference between the two set's other than the middle axle on the 6x6. You honestly could just buy two sets for the c14 and put the original 6x6 plastic output covers. It would be cheaper, right?
JerryIRacer
Rock Stacker
No, no, and no! Adding weight down low is only positive side effect. 'linked set' has options and set of front and rear axles is $75. Benefit of those over buying just housings and swapping in your own internals is:
1. You do not have to buy metal knuckles and out shafts . Those are included in 'my' set.
2. you do not have to buy metal differential, its already inside. Swapping plastic diff into metal housing is just silly.
3. There are no dog bones. They are replaced with universal joints. It is big deal as dog bones are wear item.
So, it seems a lot of money but it is several upgrades all packaged together and I yet have to sit down and sum it all up to find out where the break even point is.
1. You do not have to buy metal knuckles and out shafts . Those are included in 'my' set.
2. you do not have to buy metal differential, its already inside. Swapping plastic diff into metal housing is just silly.
3. There are no dog bones. They are replaced with universal joints. It is big deal as dog bones are wear item.
So, it seems a lot of money but it is several upgrades all packaged together and I yet have to sit down and sum it all up to find out where the break even point is.
Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
These WPL rigs have decent to good bodies. The transmissions are lacking, IMO. The upgrade parts that are now available are no better than the Hot Racing clone parts that are/were available for any thing popular.
All that said, putting $75 worth of axles and gears under a $40 kit truck and pushing it with a sub standard tranny is too much for me. Maybe a tranny will come along soon and would justify the money, but currently I don’t see any.
I’ve got a C14 with a 370 planetary driving a transfer case and Losi Mini axles. The speed isn’t much but it has enough torque to crawl a little bit. I’ve driven it for maybe 15 minutes around my garage. Just doesn’t interest me like I thought it would.
I may move the chassis, planetary, and transfer case over to my new c24 whenever I get the leaf springs squared away.
All that said, putting $75 worth of axles and gears under a $40 kit truck and pushing it with a sub standard tranny is too much for me. Maybe a tranny will come along soon and would justify the money, but currently I don’t see any.
I’ve got a C14 with a 370 planetary driving a transfer case and Losi Mini axles. The speed isn’t much but it has enough torque to crawl a little bit. I’ve driven it for maybe 15 minutes around my garage. Just doesn’t interest me like I thought it would.
I may move the chassis, planetary, and transfer case over to my new c24 whenever I get the leaf springs squared away.
So does the B series come with brass ring and pinion gears now? I think WPL should fix the issues with their driveshafts. I like as a company how they are willing to improve the design of their product.
I agree on the stock transmissions, I’ve blown the gears out of three stock ones so far but the two speed has been holding up great for me, I’ve been running it hard and I’ve got about eight 3s packs through that so far with no issues. Pretty happy with it now it’s a lot of fun, will spin donuts on my snowy driveway in high and crawl real nice in low, like I’ve said before though it’s not my Trx Bronco but it’s a hoot for what it is now that I’ve got the bugs worked out.
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So what kind of batteries do you guys use? I just got an ESC in the mail today and my truck should get here today as well. The ESC is getting ready to be waterproofed and I might do the servo as well when it gets here. For now I will just use the stock servo, but I have everything to get it running when it's finished being built
Go to hobby king and look for 850 to 1000 mah 2s with jst plugs if you got that small esc, I'm running a Hobbywing 1625 in mine so I have a 1700 3s also.
Brake Weight
I wanna be Dave
The HW1060 is a little bigger, similar price, and has a drag brake.
You are correct, I also bought two of those to try out, with the two speed though in low gear it will hold itself back pretty decent with 1625.
Metal driveshafts arrived so I was finally able to install the bigger motor - great upgrade, its slower with more torque, just how it should be. That 2 speed tranny, not so much - I have the version with a spring and I dont know, maybe I mounted it wrong but the lower gear is engaged in default now, tensioning the spring all the time and since the arm holding shifting servo is held by 2 screws with already stripped threads the whole system does not a much of a good job holding the gear in.
As for the metal upgrades/steering mentioned above, it seemed OK after limiting steering angle but on first test drive with the new motor, one of the dog bones somehow managed to jump of its position in the cup and locked itself preventing any steering and movement, had to use pliers to push it back in place, so not much of a recommended upgrade this is..
As for the metal upgrades/steering mentioned above, it seemed OK after limiting steering angle but on first test drive with the new motor, one of the dog bones somehow managed to jump of its position in the cup and locked itself preventing any steering and movement, had to use pliers to push it back in place, so not much of a recommended upgrade this is..
As for the metal upgrades/steering mentioned above, it seemed OK after limiting steering angle but on first test drive with the new motor, one of the dog bones somehow managed to jump of its position in the cup and locked itself preventing any steering and movement, had to use pliers to push it back in place, so not much of a recommended upgrade this is..[/QUOTE]
I found with mine the pins in the dog bones were loose and were flopping around and causing it to bind, I removed them and scored them up and filled the hole with CA glue and they are nice and tight now, I'm waiting on my 2 speed to test them out again.
I found with mine the pins in the dog bones were loose and were flopping around and causing it to bind, I removed them and scored them up and filled the hole with CA glue and they are nice and tight now, I'm waiting on my 2 speed to test them out again.
Do you know how to get more steering angle out of these?
You're only gonna get a degree or two more out of this setup over stock before it starts binding. My stock setup on my C24 turns great though, I ground the little stops of the stock knuckles and it turns great, the upgraded setup drive cups have too much taper to them, now I hear the drive cups on the set with the brass gears have less taper and work much better, the set I got has the black steel gears.
