Is that a pencil tip or chisel tip? Its hard to tell from the angle of that pic. For soldering to the wide flat surface of a Deans connector I've always had the best results with a chisel tip. Certainly can't beat that price if it works well and will hold up for years. How high do you set the dial on yours for soldering on battery connectors? Ohh and thanks to you and the others for taking the time to reply "thumbsup"
I don't remember... thought it came with a small pencil tip.
I prefer using a chisel tip as well...
so I purchased a small and large chisel tip separately.
I found my tips at what used to be called Radio Shack...
but ebay lists/sells them, including assorted replacement tip sets for small coin.
HobbyKing likely sells them as well... but I didn't look.
Same tips utilized for the Hakko soldering iron/station I believe.
The replaceable tips are hollow and the iron's heating element protrudes up into the tip
and are secured onto the iron by the threaded retainer ring.
BTW: The tips are a consumable item. So don't expect them to last forever.
I'd recommend purchasing some spares to have on hand.
Excessive/continual heat cycles shortens the tip's consumable life usage.
Continual cleaning - re-tinning takes its toll ;-)
Think I set my transformer around 370* - 375* using 60/40 rosin core.
I think the transformer's adjustment is fairly accurate.
But I honestly haven't checked it for temp accuracy.
60/40 is supposed to melt at 370 *F ( 188 *C )
tho' it will depend on the melting point of the solder utilized.
An overly large solder diameter could also require more heat.
Plus the ambient air temperature could play a role too.
Mine is re-adjusted to the degree that melts the solder promptly.
But not too much over that temperature is required to connect two properly tinned ends together.
If you're heating up thicker metal tabs to tin... you may wish to temporarily set the temps higher.
But be forewarned...
Prolonged exposure to heat can result in melted plug plastic, wire insulation
and the premature burning away of the rosin/flux possibly causing a poor solder connection.
Heated for too long... the tinning can also bleed farther up the wires then is necessary, creating a solid wire way beyond the solder joint.
A good solder contact should be shiny and free of burnt discoloration/contamination.
Generally ya tin on one end, then the other... then melt the two tinned solder ends together for the join.
remember... yer not soldering plumbing pipe using a torch. Lol
