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Vattera Bronco Build

BroNCo85

Rock Stacker
Joined
Feb 5, 2018
Messages
54
Location
Raleigh
When I first got into the RC hobby, I got the Traxxas Stampede and gave me such a rush when driving it slow or fast. Little did I know after driving it slow to create some flex and take some nice shots, it would later fuel myself into the crawling scene.

A few years later after having different vehicles I still had that empty feeling with the RC scene. Sadly, shops around my area were either closing down the track or the store altogether which unfortunately expedited my emptiness. After looking around to see what was around and saw scale crawlers. I finally asked around to see what would be a great start with crawler and was told either the Vaterra Ascender or the Axial SCX10 2. I liked the idea of having the axial but felt pulled with the Ascender Bronco's body. It's something different and I have always had a fascination with Broncos.

Moving forward, I loved the fact that going out by myself on these trails are fun. I can go about my pace, take time to take pictures, make stupid mistakes and no one would see me doing them. I would noticed things here and there and figured I could deal with them.

After a week or so ago, I engaged myself to do a group day outing (with me being sick and other issues, this was a big step for me). It was really interesting to see the creativity that others brought to the table. After realizing the mistakes that were made and the improvements I needed to change, I decided then I want to create my own build and thread. Not Necessarily from the ground up type thing but learn as I go and make improvements. It wont be an overnight thing as finances are very limited, but I'll update as I can.

So... This is what I would like to do so far:

1-I would like to keep the Bronco look. I am finding that the stock body is not helping with keeping things low and found some options but not sure how to make it work on the chassis. These are the Broncos that I have found so far. If anyone has found other Bronco bodies, I'd love to see them.
 

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2- I have already done some things with the suspension and bought some parts from Scaler Fab and Rock sliders from Warrior Armor that was mentioned from one of the threads here. I still need to do something with the shocks to firm it up some but continue to have the beautiful flex.
 

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At one point I was worried about the battery tray not being able to fit with the mods I made with the rock sliders and ScalerFab's mounts. Fortunately It worked perfectly!

It was raining lightly but I figured screw it, I am going to take out my bronco out today. I wanted to try it on 3s as I have never done so before. After noticing a difference on how it ran, I figured I would keep it slow. Well... The RC gods said no... Transmitter battery went low and for some reason the truck was driving in 2wd and not 4x4... Frustrating, yes but I am glad to find they were easy fixes.
 

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Off to a great start! Any of those bodies should fit, except maybe the Bronco with full drop interior, GCM forward motor kit or make your own will take care of that though. Check the wheelbase, might have to adjust that too. :)
 
It's been a while since I last posted... With the weather being crappy and me being consistently sick (docs haven't figured out whats going on still), it's been hard to get anything done. I was able to redo the stock shocks but still noticing the back end still slouching when going forward... Any thoughts as to aid in this issue? Also, I noticed Boom's Racing has finally released the VooDoo Heavy duty Drive shafts. Just not sure which one to get for the Bronco? I just ordered Reef's RC Triple 4's new Servo with Servo horn as well as some Stainless Steel Axle Amour to add some weight. Can't wait to get them in and see how they do!
 
seems you are experiencing the one weakness in ascender design: torque twist.

there are lots of ways to fight this. raise rear upper link mounts on the skid (there are tutorials here, best way seems to be sacrifice your stock battery tray mounts) or use a wraith sway bar kit with a music wire for the bar through your frame. you can also outboard your shocks. or any combination of those methods. i'm using rear upper link risers, commonly refered to as RULR with the battery mounts as mentioned earlier, and outboarded shocks.

lots of tutorials here on how to reduce torque twist or TT. i will do some quick clicking and see if i can find a few links here i will edit them in later...

start with this
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/538944-natedogs-vaterra-ascender.html
and anything from Rich Trujillo and CODYBOY
 
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seems you are experiencing the one weakness in ascender design: torque twist.

there are lots of ways to fight this. raise rear upper link mounts on the skid (there are tutorials here, best way seems to be sacrifice your stock battery tray mounts) or use a wraith sway bar kit with a music wire for the bar through your frame. you can also outboard your shocks. or any combination of those methods. i'm using rear upper link risers, commonly refered to as RULR with the battery mounts as mentioned earlier, and outboarded shocks.

lots of tutorials here on how to reduce torque twist or TT. i will do some quick clicking and see if i can find a few links here i will edit them in later...

start with this
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/vaterra-ascender/538944-natedogs-vaterra-ascender.html
and anything from Rich Trujillo and CODYBOY

I was able to use the RULR method which has helped and rebuilt the shocks with using the traxxas parts and putting in 30wt oil. I noticed some one ended up using the scx 10.2 axles but that is just money I do not have. I may try using the sway kit or possibly just purchase stiffer springs to combat the "TT" issue. Either that, may need to go up in oil weight. Thanks!
 
nice, sounds like you got the right idea ;)
i cringed a bit when i saw 10.2 axles on a vaterra... worse things could happen, people put ford 9" on chevies all the time so... *shrug* whynot.
 
nice, sounds like you got the right idea ;)
i cringed a bit when i saw 10.2 axles on a vaterra... worse things could happen, people put ford 9" on chevies all the time so... *shrug* whynot.

To each their own, I reckon. I was able to take the bronco out today for some more testing. I made the mistake of using magnets as the body post. Maybe some bungee cord will fix that. The Rockbeast XOR's are breaking in nicely and really doing a good job of grabbing. I have to admit, the shocks are doing great (aside from the TT). Just a little bit more weight on the axles and I think it will work a bit better. I did notice when the TT was getting too much, the stock drive shafts were having issues.
 
Hey, thought I'd chime in about the Bronco bodies. I used the HPI Bronco body for the Savage, believe its part #7179. It fit the WB2 perfectly, as my truck was a K10. Mounting can be a bit tricky, but you could probably get it as low as you need. As a bonus, it has nice scale features.
 

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Ginzo, I am really enjoying the look of the body! The orange is a nice color choice along with the wheels. By chance, can you show how you mounted the body onto the chassis?
 
Ask and you shall receive. This gets a little messy as I just used stuff I had laying around. I did not use the factory dimples for the body mount holes. Start with the rear first, it was the easiest. I used some 1/4" styrene round tube for the posts. I drilled out the rear cage mounts (rear cross member) so the styrene was a pretty tight fit. Doesn't take much. 7/32 I think. After they fit in the rear mounts, I took the studs from a Proline body mount kit and screwed down in the tube. After I figured for where I wanted the body to sit, I used a 1/16" bit and drilled holes for the cross pins. Easy enough. I can move the posts if need be by just pushing up from the bottom.
The front was a little more involved. I again used the styrene tube, cut into about 1" pieces. I drilled out the front body mount on the shock tower and stuffed the styrene tube down so it was flush with the top of the body mount. I then used a Proline body mount for a Slash 4x4 (front & rear are the same). I marked the cross piece and drilled it out for a 4x12 button head screw. I then used the short adjustable legs to get my body mounted.
It seems to work pretty good, just got back from the park where the truck tumbled a few times and nothing broke or moved. "thumbsup"
 

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ps I used a piece of 1/8" x 1" aluminum flat for a cross brass. Covered it with duct tape so it doesn't scratch the body. Front & rear. Hope this helps!
 
ps I used a piece of 1/8" x 1" aluminum flat for a cross brass. Covered it with duct tape so it doesn't scratch the body. Front & rear. Hope this helps!

It's amazing what you can find around the house that could make RC parts work with other RC's. I was actually thinking about the Proline body mounts a few weeks ago but just never grew the balls to try it!

I did venture out a little and "waterproofed" my servo with flex seal. It was interesting to formulate a plan of how to make it hang with out making too much of a mess (wire hanger with zip ties and fishing line with a shipping box underneath) and my cat playing with it. :lmao:
 
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