Vader Products Gen 7 skid plate for Everest 10 install/fitment

[Smokin' Joe]

I previously modified my Everest 10's skid plate for better link geometry and to countersink the screws. See thread: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redcat-rs10/570358-my-e10-skid-plate-mods.html

Since then, I've bought a couple more Everest 10s for my sons, but hadn't taken the time to modify their skid plates. I saw that the Vader products skid plate for the Gen 7 did the same things my skid plate mods did and bought a couple for my sons' rigs.

In order to install the Vader skid plate you need countersunk M3 screws for the tranny. I used 4 M3 by 12mm screws, but you could probably use up to 14mm screws. You also need different balls for the rod ends where they connect to the skid as the redcat ones are too large for the space in the skid. I used traxxas ones which fit perfectly.

The other issue with installing this skid on the Everest 10 is that the Vader skid is quite a bit thicker than the stock skid. This raises up the transmission and causes it to hit the underside of the battery tray. I used my dremel to grind the underside of the battery tray in order to make everything fit.

Pics to follow.

 

[Smokin' Joe]

Pic

Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk

 

[Smokin' Joe]

Update. Part of the reason to change to this skid plate is to help torque twist. I haven't been able to drive the vehicle with the Vader products skid plate that much (deep snow here), but I did drive it in the house some. It still does torque twist more than my other E10, but that has many additional mods. It is greatly improved compared to before. Prior to this, torque twist was pretty noticeable just going full throttle around the yard. Now it isn't noticeable going full throttle around the house. It did lift its front right going up a steep incline on my climbing board.

 

[Smokin' Joe]

Additional update. The screws that attach the links to the stock skid plate are too long for the Vader products skid. I was able to screw them in anyways, but it would be better to use shorter screws.

 

[Everest10Dad]

Ordered 2 Vader skid plates yesterday for my Gen7 Pro and my son's E10. Got everything I need to make all new custom links too. This is gonna be great!! Never made links before.

"thumbsup":mrgreen:"thumbsup"

 

[Smokin' Joe]

I'm sure you'll be quite happy with the result once you get them installed. My son's 4ws E10 used to torque twist enough to rub the body just by giving it full throttle and running it in a tight turn. Now I don't see any torque twist doing this. Adding the Vader skid will shorten the wheelbase a bit, but that isn't all bad on the E10 (especially if you are front steering only). You will need new links for the Gen 7 since the body probably won't sit right with a shorter wheelbase.

 

[Everest10Dad]

Got my two skid plates in late last week and installed them today. They fit great and are very well made. After messing around with the link length on the Gen7 Pro for quite a while I finally came up with a setup I like. Nothing rubs, full flex and articulation achieved with no binding and good pinion angle throughout. Looks badass too IMHO. I did my son's E10 second and it was a lot easier partly do to the design of the vehicle and partly because I had already done one. I feel that I need to shorten all four links on the rear of the E10 as I feel the wheel base is too long now. Took both for test drives around the house and then out in the snow. Torque twist is all but gone, even on the E10. They both handle and articulate nicely. The E10's steering got better too due to changing the front axle from a negative caster (stock setup, why?) to a slightly positive caster setup. Now, in conjunction with a few steering mods I did, causes a little bit of negative camber when turning and thus tire bite. Seems to work nicer. and looking forward to trying it out more.

In short I recommend these skids to anyone with an E10 or Gen7 who is willing to play with suspension geometry a bit. Well worth the money and time investment.

 

[hillbillyrc]

I think I will get one for my kids e10 since the TT got worse after I installed a 21t titan motor. The torque is pretty wicked.

 

[Smokin' Joe]

I think I will get one for my kids e10 since the TT got worse after I installed a 21t titan motor. The torque is pretty wicked.

Curious, what did you do to make room for the titan?

 

[hillbillyrc]

It only uses two mounting hole for the trans right now cause the titan is a 550 can. Its the two most forward cause the length of the motor and trying to share the same space as an upper link mount. I need to fix a broken c-hub. Ill take pics when I fix that. I have a build thread on it somewhere.

 

[Smokin' Joe]

It only uses two mounting hole for the trans right now cause the titan is a 550 can. Its the two most forward cause the length of the motor and trying to share the same space as an upper link mount. I need to fix a broken c-hub. Ill take pics when I fix that. I have a build thread on it somewhere.

Ok, makes sense. FYI, with the link position on the vader skid plate you'll probably need to tweak things to avoid hitting the rod ends with the bottom of your transmission case.

 

[hillbillyrc]

Yeah was thinking about that. Its kinda give and take with space.

 

[Everest10Dad]

Finally some pics of the Vader skid plate mods I did on my son's E10 and my own Gen7 Pro. Love it. I feel using the existing bent lower links and flipping them around along with using offset end links gave me more steering clearance.

 

[Rocking]

I'm confused. Does the Gen 7 need shorter links. Vader say's 4 3/4 front and 5 rear, stock is about 5 1/8. Smokinjoe says the plate will shorten wheelbase. To me the Gen 7 needs to be .25 shorter in the front for the tires to set right in WW.

 

[Everest10Dad]

I'm confused. Does the Gen 7 need shorter links. Vader say's 4 3/4 front and 5 rear, stock is about 5 1/8. Smokinjoe says the plate will shorten wheelbase. To me the Gen 7 needs to be .25 shorter in the front for the tires to set right in WW.

To be honest with you I either misunderstood what VP was telling me to do with links or they're a bit off on their recommendations. I also used curved links not straight like they were referring to; so that coulda been it to. I ended up doing some trial and error to get the final link lengths I got. Measure, cut, assemble, disassemble, measure, cut again, reassemble....Not efficient but it worked; love the outcome.

 

[Rocking]

To be honest with you I either misunderstood what VP was telling me to do with links or they're a bit off on their recommendations. I also used curved links not straight like they were referring to; so that coulda been it to. I ended up doing some trial and error to get the final link lengths I got. Measure, cut, assemble, disassemble, measure, cut again, reassemble....Not efficient but it worked; love the outcome.

How long are your links eye to eye.

 

[Everest10Dad]

How long are your links eye to eye.

Remember my links are curved so this is a straight-line measurement from center of eye to center of eye, not following the curvature of the links.

Front Bottom Links: 4-15/16"
Front Top Links: 4-5/16"

Rear Bottom Links: 5-3/16"
Rear Top Links: 4-7/16"

These are measured on the truck the best that I can without taking everything apart. Should get you close.

 

[AdamD76]

out of stock now. I can"t find them anywhere.

 

[GOVa]

I have been looking for them also and can not find them in stock anywhere, only back order. Everest10Dad I see you have a droop kit installed on the E-10 can you give us which one worked best for you?

 

[Everest10Dad]

I used (2) Axial AX30561 kits. They were cheap, seemed durable and so far seem to be working very nicely.