Upgrading electronics on 1/12 scale crawler... need some help

[high plains drifter]

I'm wanting to update here since I'm having some issues and have some new questions/ concerns.

Got the FS GT5 and the HW 1060. Installed the esc and the receiver without any problem but:

Programming the radio, when I get to the throttle parameters ( settings) the wheels on the vehicle are rolling in reverse. I'm thinking that the motor leads are backwards but I don't know. Does that sound like the issue? Programming the steering and other functions... all went fine with no issues whatsoever.

When watching the video on soldering caps to the motor... are the caps supposed to be soldered to the tabs as well as the can? I guess I'm apprehensive doing this cause it feels like I'd be soldering everything together. Also I'm hoping that one cap might suffice since three of 'em braided together seems like too much to try to cleanly execute in such a tight environment.

Let me see if I understand the 3 cap concept- One is to alleviate interference between the two tabs, one is to alleviate interference between the pos tab and the can, and one is to alleviate interference between the neg tab and the can... yes? Sure I'm ignorant about this but there's not much out there on youtube regarding capacitors and brushed motors... at least not getting into using three capacitors.

I think that's it for now. Any help would be greatly appreciated as always.

 

[kincer]

Switch motor wires around and you should be fine, one cap should do the trick, I have one on one of my mini Yotas and three on the other and notice no difference, but I do know it runs real glitchy without at least one. Hope that helps."thumbsup"

 

[high plains drifter]

Thank you, kincer. And just to make sure I don't mess anything up... the cap should be soldered onto each tab as well as onto the can? Don't laugh at the primitive drawing lol...

 

[Natedog]

Shouldn't need any motor capacitors with the HW WP1060 (or the much better WP1080), but the caps can't hurt as they reduce RFI output. One cap between positive/negative motor tabs, one from negative motor tab to motor can, and one from motor positive tab to motor can.

Don't just swap motor wires due to possible built in motor timing advance. Buy the proper rotation motor, switch trasmitter throttle direction switch as needed too.

 

[kincer]

Shouldn't need any motor capacitors with the HW WP1060 (or the much better WP1080), but the caps can't hurt as they reduce RFI output. One cap between positive/negative motor tabs, one from negative motor tab to motor can, and one from motor positive tab to motor can.

Don't just swap motor wires due to possible built in motor timing advance. Buy the proper rotation motor, switch trasmitter throttle direction switch as needed too.

Also good advice on the motor wires, I read that too quickly. But these little motors for whatever reason running a hobby grade esc on them they will run glitchy without at least one capacitor. I wouldn't have believed it had it not happened on three of mine now. I'm running 370 motors but not much different than the 380 he's running, I even asked John Holmes if I needed them and he said no, but none of mine ran right til I put caps on them. I couldn't believe it but yeah save the headache and solder at least one on.

 

[high plains drifter]

Here's the problem though, Nate...

The motor is in the vehicle and there's no issue with it so I'm not going to swap in another motor. I had no issues at all until I upgraded the stock associated rtr radio to a Flysky GT5.

At that time I also installed the Flysky receiver that came with the radio as well as a new HW 1060 esc. That's where all the fun began.

I have been round and round with this radio and for the life of me I cannot get the vehicle moving in the right direction. When I apply reverse she goes fwd and when I give her throttle she goes in reverse. I have read extensively the Redcat FS online manual and I've looked at countless youtube demos, set-up's, etc. Doesn't matter what I do in the menu settings... REV- nor/ rev, TRIM- f %, FAIL SAFE %, CRAWL modes- OFF/A/B/C/D...

Nothing that I'm able to do while programming the menu settings with this new radio is correcting the fwd/ rev issue. So that's why I'm thinking the motor wires need to be swapped. I mean... what even is the "proper rotation motor" that you speak of?? I just don't get it if it's not a matter of the wires needing to be switched. No idea why I'd have to buy a new motor at this point.

This has become pretty frustrating with this new info, Nate.

As for the capacitors, I'd rather be safe and run one or two since I've already bought them.

 

[kincer]

Here's the problem though, Nate...

The motor is in the vehicle and there's no issue with it so I'm not going to swap in another motor. I had no issues at all until I upgraded the stock associated rtr radio to a Flysky GT5.

At that time I also installed the Flysky receiver that came with the radio as well as a new HW 1060 esc. That's where all the fun began.

I have been round and round with this radio and for the life of me I cannot get the vehicle moving in the right direction. When I apply reverse she goes fwd and when I give her throttle she goes in reverse. I have read extensively the Redcat FS online manual and I've looked at countless youtube demos, set-up's, etc. Doesn't matter what I do in the menu settings... REV- nor/ rev, TRIM- f %, FAIL SAFE %, CRAWL modes- OFF/A/B/C/D...

Nothing that I'm able to do while programming the menu settings with this new radio is correcting the fwd/ rev issue. So that's why I'm thinking the motor wires need to be swapped. I mean... what even is the "proper rotation motor" that you speak of?? I just don't get it if it's not a matter of the wires needing to be switched. No idea why I'd have to buy a new motor at this point.

This has become pretty frustrating with this new info, Nate.

As for the capacitors, I'd rather be safe and run one or two since I've already bought them.

These little cheap brushed motors that are in these should be just fine to switch the motor wires, higher grade motors have timing built into them and you can't switch the wires, I highly doubt it's a directional motor either. I do find it weird that switching that channel from normal to reverse doesn't correct it though.

 

[high plains drifter]

For an idiot like me I guess anything's possible. I've never had anything better than a rtr radio in my crawlers so it's fairly daunting to navigate thru all this stuff. I'm just getting agitated at this point and I know that a big part of that is of course due to my own ignorance. I'm just gonna have to figure it all out. If I smoke something or short out something then it's just gonna have to be on me and I'll deal with it as I go. Sorry for all this. Y'all have been great trying to help me out but I have to face facts that I'm the only one that's going to be able to figure this out.

 

[kincer]

You're not an idiot, you're learning. We were all where you're at right now, I'm still learning stuff and you will too.

 

[high plains drifter]

Thanks, kin. Part of this is unrelated... some rough stuff over the past couple weeks.... health stuff, work, tax time, etc. Getting old is for the birds.

I agree with you too on the REV screen function. I did try to fix the fwd/ rev issue that way but I dunno if I did it wrong or what. A lot easier to reverse on a cheapie radio lol. I'll get it one way or another... eventually.

Another thing I'm just mentioning for the heck of it, is in certain menu settings ( I can't remember which screens... I think in REV screen I would reach a certain percentage or in CRAWL screen I would toggle thru the steering front/ rear selector) all of a sudden the wheels would spin full speed! No idea what's up with that! Glad I've got this rig off the ground while messing with this lol.

 

[kincer]

I have no experience with that radio so I can't give any advice there, what I'd do if I was you was just start over, wipe out the settings in the radio, recalibrate the esc and try again. If that doesn't work then switch motor wires. Good luck to you, sometimes this stuff can be frustrating but it's usually something simple that you may have missed.

 

[Greatscott]

Any updates on this rig?

I am thinking about getting a CR12 for a C1 comp rig, and looking for the best options for electronics.

The first choice is brushed or brushless... Everything I have seen and read on this truck says the radio and ESC are not good at all. The radio will be a DX5R or C, and if it stays brushed, I will likely throw in a XL5 HV (have two sitting on the shelf) with a 10A BEC. So, I am curious if the caps with the new ESC helped the motor on your rig.

Of course, the other option is to go brushless. I was thinking HH's 380 Revolver (2600kv) with a Mamba Micro X.

 

[high plains drifter]

Any updates on this rig?

I am thinking about getting a CR12 for a C1 comp rig, and looking for the best options for electronics.

The first choice is brushed or brushless... Everything I have seen and read on this truck says the radio and ESC are not good at all. The radio will be a DX5R or C, and if it stays brushed, I will likely throw in a XL5 HV (have two sitting on the shelf) with a 10A BEC. So, I am curious if the caps with the new ESC helped the motor on your rig.

Of course, the other option is to go brushless. I was thinking HH's 380 Revolver (2600kv) with a Mamba Micro X.

I'm honestly pretty happy with the stock 380 mainly because this is such a lightweight rig ( even with some additional weight added). Plenty of power to weight ratio. It's not a fast rig but seems to have enough wheel-spin as is. Not sure how much benefit a brushless setup would have.

The stock tx/ rx does indeed suck... mainly due to not having any drag/ adjustable braking control. I'm not yet using the FS GT5 but I will definitely be upgrading that tx/ rx at some point. Currently I'm running a Tactic X300 tx/ TR325 rx. They're a little better than the stock tx/ rx but still suck.

 

[Greatscott]

Awesome, good to know!

If I do get this truck I think I will throw a XL5-HV in with an external BEC to start with, see what I can get out of it. A good sensored brushless system will give it more power, more wheel speed, and smoother power down low.