Toyota Hilux on Axial Scx10 w/ leaf springs

[Downfall]

So, for my next project I've decided to use a Tamiya Toyota Hilux hard body. I have a bunch of left over parts, odds and ends, etc.

I used a GCM front motor mount, Chinese trans, axial axles and what ever I had laying around to build frame, etc.

I plan to do a pinched front, dovetail rear bed, maybe custom interior and half or no doors.

This will be a trail/light rocks basher truck.

So, this is what I am starting with, enjoy.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[TK421]

Nice!

Lou

 

[Downfall]

Work has begun. I marked off areas to be relieved of material and cut them out with a dremel. It's ok that it will be ruff. If you notice, I used the hood line as a guide, but did not put my cut in the open/close hood lines as I want them to be visible on final product.

I then made two relief cuts on both sides towards rear of hood. This makes bending the fenders in for the "pinched" look effortlessly. No heat needed.

I was very conservative with first cuts because it is easier to remove material than add and shape it back. Had to do a second cut to remove more material.

Now I need to tape up fenders and heat weld the plastic I removed back into the cracks. Once plastic cools, it will be strong like it was never cut.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[Downfall]

Ok, so taped front up to hold in place, the clips keep the hood even.

This is my cheap, do all hobby wood burner, solder, etc. I use this tip to melt weld plastic because it has a tip and broad flatside to blend/feed plastic into cracks from cutting. I used this process on my D90 roof.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[Downfall]

So this is the beginning of the plastic welding. Make sure to really get it in there. Be carefully with the solder iron, you do not want the hot shaft to accidentally touch any part of the plastic body.

Always weld from underside where it does not have to be pretty.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[TK421]

Oh snap!! Sh*t got real!!

Lou

 

[Downfall]

All welded up. Will need to wait for my shipment of putty to fill in crack and sand/blend in.

As far as the front goes, I can either extend each side fender with styrene to match hood, or I can cut hood straight across to match fenders.

Not sure which option I will take, will wait until I mount body and trim fenders front with grill to see which option would look best.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[Downfall]

Oh snap!! Sh*t got real!!

Lou

Lol, nothing to it but to do it. Your turn Lou !

Here is a front pic of pinched look, body is sitting about 3/4" low in pic. Just resting on stand.

Now I am stuck until my putty arrives.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[Downfall]

Ha! Went to pick up takeout for Family and next door was a hobby store and it had my putty.

So I laid down a coat to dry overnight, tomorrow I will sand it and keep trucking.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[TK421]

I’m a couple weeks from buying my body but I’ll be sure to post when I do. Looks great so far bro.

Lou

 

[Downfall]

Fml, lol. After doing more research, this time on 1:1 dove nose/pinched builds; I learned another thing or two.

It seems that a lot of peeps cut and extend each narrowed fender to match the now stock hood which ends up being longer than the fenders. They than add/weld metal into the gap created by moving fenders out to match front of hood.

I however, am not going to recut my body then reweld the plastic welds, lol. So, if you are watching this, take note. You may want to extend your fenders vs one of the routes I will decide on.

Just trying to give all creative options available.

I reposted pic so you can see what I mean.
Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[Downfall]

First sanding shows a couple of spots need a little more putty. I'll get her puttied up, resanded and the hood should be good to go.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[Nick_]

Nice. Keep us posted. "thumbsup"

 

[Downfall]

Nice. Keep us posted. "thumbsup"

Yes Sir, will do![emoji16]

So, insomnia sucks, but it does help to get sh!t done. Unfortunately, forgot to take pics in my haze. But I did wake up to this, lol.

So my custom interior is started but in the ruff. You can see tape deck, air/heat controls, cup holders, center console, glove box, etc. I started the cb and bolted it to passenger side.

thinking of going doorless to showcase build, halfdoor at very least.

That's it for today. Beer, chicken, hot dogs are on my mind.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[BJ40Fin]

Never thought about plastic welding, will use it in future projects! Awesome job on the interior also"thumbsup"

 

[Downfall]

here you can see the hood lines remain intact after sanding. will do the otherside later.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[Downfall]

well, no going back. Doorless it is.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[Downfall]

interior look without doors.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[Downfall]

I taped interior into cab so I can figure out mounting solutions. I have decided to do magnets for this build. I will have 6 large rc magnets for the cab, maybe more.

I am trying to keep cost down so I will reuse and repurpose as much as I can.

I still need to make two more magnet mounts so I will take a pic of that. the first two I made on frame were trial an error.

I also cut the front fender bottoms off, I love this in 1:1 builds.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk

 

[Downfall]

so, to make screw onto frame magnets I used the parts shown.

the hammer is to tap nut into the hollow of the magnet holder.

you can see from pic, you must drive the screw from the inside of frame out to attach magnet bolt.

I let my body sit a little high, because I will extend bottom of cab frame lower, to more closely resemble 1:1 cab. I feel the bottom flair is not long enough on tamiya cab imho.

Sent from my SM-J327T using Tapatalk