• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Topless Defender D90 Build

neillarson

RCC Addict
Joined
May 22, 2010
Messages
1,153
Location
The heart of the south
My first build on here and it is going to be slow. Going to be a topless hardbody D90.

What I have so far:
D90 Hardbody
RC4WD Gelande Kit
RC4WD 1.9 Rok Lox (5)
Castle BEC
Holmes TorqueMaster BR-XL Waterproofed
Holmes 35T Sport
Spektrum DS300
RC4WD Light Kit
3Racing Winch

I was working on a custom winch bumper but I have discovered that my skills lay elsewhere, so, waiting on RC4WD's new Gelande Winch Bumper.

The Gelande with the Rok Lox
Gelande2.jpg

and the body
Body2.jpg

A side by side shot of the Rok Lox compared to the Mud Pluggers
Tires.jpg
 
Cut the flares off and added some off of a Dingo (with some mods). Also cut the top off, reinforced the box and the windshield bar, and did some filler.

Top is off and body is sitting on the chassis, i really like the look of the Roks and the ride height is nice too.

My first attempt at tube bending and brazing. Largest diameter tubing I could get a decent bend with was 1/8" but, I am going with it for now, I can always replace the rear bars later. A real D90 cage has very large diameter tubing for the two main hoops with smaller diameter tubing for the windshield loop and the cross members. Oh well.
RearCage.jpg

Cage.jpg


I have the connecting bars cut and shaped (used solid rod for them for the sharp bend) but I am clueless how I am going to keep the correct angle on the front loop while connecting to the rear cage. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Next I have to make the plates that attach the cage to the body then start chopping up the interior. I think I am going to remove the rear jump seats and either make a bench or just go with a flat floor to hold my accessories. I also want to see if I can cut and splice the dash to make it a left hand drive. All that for next week end if my wife doesn't drag me camping.
 
Last edited:
Nice start and for your first braze you make me feel like I can do it.."thumbsup"
Like the flares and think your on the right track with the rear.
 
very cool mate you gotta love those defender bodies

Sure do love em, Wish I could buy a 1:1 but not in the budget as I am nearing retirement.

But as homage to the D90s down under (even though I am going left hand drive) I am ordering a set of the ARB pumpkins as soon as they are available again.

I actually found more info on civilian D90s in Australia than in Great Britain. Though there are some really cool military versions of this baby. I may attempt one of those this winter.

Still working on the color, I was going Yellow but someone on here just did a real nice lexan bodied soft top so maybe Red.
 
AWSOME i love the topless d90's, There is one that cruises are my town topless and it is reall good looking

can't wait to see more
 
Rethinking my tire selection> since I decided to change the color from yellow to red, I think the Titus wheels look better.

What do you think about the tires?

TSLs on Titus or Rok Loxs on Tango Downs
TSL1.jpg

Rok2.jpg
 
Last edited:
I like the titus wheels if they had a more scale looking beadlock ring. No "proline" or words on the ring.

but the tango downs do look great, they just need to be dirty to give the wheel & tire contrast. So it doesn't look like one large black mass

keep up the great work
 
Sucks only having a few hours a week to work on this, but oh well.

Swapped out the wheels and tires back to the Tangos and Roks, I agree they look best and oddly enough the TSLs look great and work great on my Honcho.
DSC_0128.jpg

DSC_0137.jpg


Got the cage finished except for brazing on the feet. Also cut out those ugly fake jump seats, added a flat bed in the rear.
 
Last edited:
Completed my Interior last night and realized when I got to work that I forgot to take any pics.

Ordered my winch bumper, the new RC4WD Geland one, saves me from trying to complete the brass one I have been strugtgling with. I am going to have to get me a welder. Also ordered a Bulldog Wireless winch and a little extra Bling for my T Rex axels.

Plan to get the cage feet brazed on then get some paint on the cage. Hopefully I can get some paint on the body this weekend. I cut off the stock body tabs that were supposed to be screwed into the rear bumper. Thye looked sooooo hookey, so I also have to see how I can replace the rigidity that they would have provided. I may use the exact same design but on the inside of the body and bumper.
 
So here is a pic of the interior and one with the interior and cage on. Still not sure of my brazing skills, but I guess I will see when I roll it the first time.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0144.jpg
    DSC_0144.jpg
    45.5 KB · Views: 1,870
  • DSC_0142.jpg
    DSC_0142.jpg
    37.4 KB · Views: 1,961
Good looking truck, Im in the beginning stages a D90 on scx10 frame. Its got the dingo flares too. Just been trying to decide on what tires Id like to run. I would have thought the roc lox diameter would have been to big but looks good on yours."thumbsup"
 
I am impressed this is looking very cool. I really like that chassis.


Keep up the good work. "thumbsup"
 
Good looking truck, Im in the beginning stages a D90 on scx10 frame. Its got the dingo flares too. Just been trying to decide on what tires Id like to run. I would have thought the roc lox diameter would have been to big but looks good on yours."thumbsup"

I thought so too, I really liked the looks of the TSLs but they are so soft that it looked like I had 4 flats. On an SCX10 they might work.

My build is stuck at the moment because my brass cage failed. I am getting some help this weekend on a steel tube cage. I should say my brazing failed. As soon as we determine a different way to attach the cage and get it done, I will finish up the paint job and get this thing running. I do have the electronics in, HH Torquemaster BL ESC waterproof, HH 35T Handwound, CC BEC, HS7955 and a 30C 3S 2200Mhr pack. Also have a RC4WD lighting system ready to go once the body is done.
 
Finally a little update. The cage is still kicking my ass, finally got it brazed up in steel then tried to correct a twist and pulled it apart. Oh well, I will save it for next weekend,

I did get all the electronics in and got it wired. Took it for a spin in my shop, wow, this thing is geared to crawl. Also stunned by the difference it made adjusting my BEC to 6V for the HS5654.

DSC_0174.jpg


Figured out a spare tire carrier. I didn't want to use the plastic one on the body for a Rok and a Tango wheel. The pics show how it was made, the added advantage is that I was able to move the cheesy looking body mounting tabs inside the frame and bolt it all together with 2 x 3MM cap heads. looks pretty good.

DSC_0175.jpg

DSC_0170.jpg

DSC_0169.jpg


Best thing is the Tier rack stays with the body.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top