• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Top Everest 10 mods and upgrades

StomperCrawler

RCC Addict
Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Messages
1,662
Location
LA
So am I correct in understanding that the top mods and upgrades for the Everest 10 are as follows:

1. Axial iron cross lockers ax30500 to prevent breakage - $13
2. Plastic-safe lube
3. Check for binding & the resolve
4. Set gear mesh using paper trick
5. Remove steering-limiting bumps
6. Move battery forward and low to lower cog
7. Brace the top of the rear axle using a piece of a cutting board or other method to prevent axle roll-$1
8. Move the shock limiters to inside the shocks to lower cog
9. Mod (trim off every other row of tread) or change the hard tires to gain traction
10. Mirror tranny to limit torque twist
11. Remove the stickers to increase looks if desired
12. Traxxas driveshafts (part # 1953) to prevent breakage, or at least carry them as spares - $9 (Axial wild boars are better but pricier)
13. Dean's or xt60 connectors (does this void the esc and motor warranty?) to prevent shorting, fire, and increase amp flow and efficiency - $5
14. RC4WD 35t motor to increase wheel speed if desired (stock is about 80t) - $10
15. 2s lipo 2,200mah - $10
16. Weight in/on the axle like burly tubes - 1/8 x 4" brass nipples - $2
17. Chop off lower screw towers from axles to prevent getting stuck
18. Inboard lower links via wraith type plate mod to limit torque twist (thanks @cabron)
19. Tighten (not over-tighten/strip) loose screws & lok-tite metal-to-metal bolts and screws
20. Remove anodizing using oven cleaner if desired
21. Add led lights and 165 ohm resistor to run off the esc's 5.1v bec. Anyone tried 6v to the servo via $4 bec? This would require 200 ohm resistor to the run leds if it doesn't fry the servo.
22. Make your own ladder chassis out of cutting board and screw it to the existing tvp chassis?
23. Outboard the shocks to help with tt - thanks @hillbillyrc
24. Tons of these tips should work too: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259328
25. Prevent tipping by lowering the center-of-gravity (cog) more by removing the pre-load clips from the shocks and then either change to softer springs (outside or internal), insert opposing springs (2x pen Springs each) inside the shock bodies to counter the existing springs, tie on limiting straps, or else remove the springs altogether and run a droop setup. ;)
26. Lipo charger if you don't have one - $15

Total damage: $65

What am I missing?
 
Last edited:
isn't it inboard the lower links to decrease torque twist?
using a wraith type skid plate
 
isn't it inboard the lower links to decrease torque twist?
using a wraith type skid plate
Yes you're right; I'll do an edit and give ya credit. :)

BTW I think remember seeing someone hack the stock plate to do this.
 
I've seen quite a few people break/replace the stock plastic servo horn with a metal one. Still waiting for mine to break before I upgrade.
 
I've seen quite a few people break/replace the stock plastic servo horn with a metal one. Still waiting for mine to break before I upgrade.
How many teeth is the servo and is it worth buying a $4 alloy horn to fit or will the servo just break next?
 
Bump for a great thread for us new Redcat owners.

What is the story on #25 in regards to pen springs?

Helps lower it for better center of gravity, and run shocks in droop or semi- droop. Rc fuel line can be used to help limit the shocks also And has some give unlike hard things like plastic or metal.

I used them in my old losi mrc and ran the front in a semi-droop with pen springs inside the shocks and fuel tube on the shaft and the rear limited with fuel tube in side and out with springs. I liked it and it worked. But like anything there were pros and cons with terrain and driving style.
 
I just purchased boom racing high mass wheels. They look almost sexual, however, they are thicker through the centre than the stock items. The spindle or threaded shaft protruding from the diff housing is not quite long enough now for the wheelnut to get full purchase on forementioned shaft. Not sure whether to lathe the wheels out a millimetre or two (a1/16" or 1/32"), or get axial axle shafts/cvd's. Will they slot straight into the factory diff? Could I perhaps fit 20mm extensions to current standard axle, which may have longer output shaft to suit thicker wheels? Help.
 
I just purchased boom racing high mass wheels. They look almost sexual, however, they are thicker through the centre than the stock items. The spindle or threaded shaft protruding from the diff housing is not quite long enough now for the wheelnut to get full purchase on forementioned shaft. Not sure whether to lathe the wheels out a millimetre or two (a1/16" or 1/32"), or get axial axle shafts/cvd's. Will they slot straight into the factory diff? Could I perhaps fit 20mm extensions to current standard axle, which may have longer output shaft to suit thicker wheels? Help.

Axial shafts will fit stock locker but will be sloppy are most likely wear the out pretty quickly
 
Here's a link to the one my buddy is using (25t) - RC Car Steering Servo Half Arm Horn 25T M3 Torque Aluminum Futaba Blue US | eBay

I can find $4 in my couch but I haven't quite seen anyone having to replace the entire servo yet

I have seen someone need to replace the servo, my best friend ended up getting a little splash of water on his during a winter crawling sesh last year, and ended up frying the servo, but after upgrading to a 30kg servo, I don’t see why anyone wouldn’t want the upgrade. The servo speed and power really do help out quite a bit
 
I've finally stripped out the factory locker and now need the axial upgraded cross.
I stripped out the plastic lockers on mine blasting around on 3s.
I just got the all metal ones and called it good. I didn't want to go down the rabbit hole of swapping in Axial parts that may or may not be discontinued.

Sent from my moto g power (2022) using Tapatalk
 
I ended up just buying an new metal drop in locker. I plan on letting my kid drive this one more. I'm working on building up a capra kit
 
Back
Top