mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
I mounted my just the opposite of yours, with a nylock nut on the servo side.... my driver comes in from the other side, I hold the mug with long needle nose pliers.
Lookin good !!!
Hang up and Drive
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Thinkcooper's first R1
- Thread starter Thinkcooper
- Start date
I mounted my just the opposite of yours, with a nylock nut on the servo side.... my driver comes in from the other side, I hold the mug with long needle nose pliers.
Lookin good !!!
Hang up and Drive
Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
Awesome! A cute little package with a few Gmade Korean market exclusives just arrived including some aluminum differential bearing caps for the axles, brass axle weights, aluminum upper/lower link spacers to try out, stainless hex head step screws for the steering knuckles, also had them throw in a Junfac DIG system to try out down the road. From order to door took less than 10 days using Korean EMS post. Pretty cool.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
I've also got the caps and stainless step screws coming, this week ??
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
Caption says it all...
Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
I have a block of free time today, so decided to DIG into the R1 and transplant the real motor (Holmes Hobbies 27T Torquemaster Pro 540) and ESC (HH Trailmaster BLE Pro), along with a Castle Creations 10am BEC, but with Holmes Hobbies BEC bypass harness for my 4WS dual Servos. The harness permits using the BEC + power cable directly from the battery, rather than drawing from the ESC's BEC circuit via the RX (without the bypass harness, I'd need to disconnect the ESC>RX + lead, and run the BEC from the battery channel into the RX). The harness still draws the yellow Servo signal for both channels from the RX. Simple, but really cool.
The Castle BEC is programmed for 6V to match the servos. The CC programming USB cable/adaptor and application on Windows is pretty remarkable. It recognizes and programs both the BEC and the ESC. Since this is a Holmes Hobbies version of the CC ESC, the programming tool has a HH exclusive drag brake setting for crawlers that's over 240%! Of course I chose that. Why not?
While the R1's going through open heart surgery and the transmission/motor/skidplate is out I'll also see about putting in the Junfac DIG system. Not sure if it's overkill with the 4WS (which works amazingly well) but what the heck. Let's go all out. Junfac has an assembly illustration on their website. Funny though - it's just a massive JPG image. But hey - it looks thorough. I'll share that these guys do know how to be thorough with instructions. Respect.
Junfac's instruction guide for the DIG
DIG it! <<< see what I did there?
The Castle BEC is programmed for 6V to match the servos. The CC programming USB cable/adaptor and application on Windows is pretty remarkable. It recognizes and programs both the BEC and the ESC. Since this is a Holmes Hobbies version of the CC ESC, the programming tool has a HH exclusive drag brake setting for crawlers that's over 240%! Of course I chose that. Why not?
While the R1's going through open heart surgery and the transmission/motor/skidplate is out I'll also see about putting in the Junfac DIG system. Not sure if it's overkill with the 4WS (which works amazingly well) but what the heck. Let's go all out. Junfac has an assembly illustration on their website. Funny though - it's just a massive JPG image. But hey - it looks thorough. I'll share that these guys do know how to be thorough with instructions. Respect.
Junfac's instruction guide for the DIG
DIG it! <<< see what I did there?
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Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
Got sidetracked along the way and decided to check toe-in status of the front wheels. They were way out with the aluminum knuckles and the 7 degree C-hub. I cut down a full length 4mm ball end removing around 5mm of plastic to provide a little clearance to adjust tie-rod length for a more desirable toe-in. Put in a lock nut as well. Now I have about a 1mm toe-in up front. Should make it more stable with less wander.
Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
What a difference toe-in makes!
Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
Four wheel steering test video on Youtube
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rMs0F4K9T2g" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rMs0F4K9T2g" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
Working on installing the new Holmes Torquemaster Pro motor and setting up the Junfac DIG system. Nice rainy day procrastination project between work writing blocks.
I'm kinda old school with setting pinion gear clearance - paper seems to work.
The DIG mounted on the transmission. Already have the servo on the Aux 2 channel and working with a 3 position lever on the Airtronics M12. Looks purty.
I'm kinda old school with setting pinion gear clearance - paper seems to work.
The DIG mounted on the transmission. Already have the servo on the Aux 2 channel and working with a 3 position lever on the Airtronics M12. Looks purty.
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mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
But does it work ? Worth the £?
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Hang up and Drive
Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
Will let you know how it works once it's up and running. Might be overkill with 4WS but there's an interesting thread or three in general asking about DIG vs. 4WS. Lots of fans of 4WS, and DIG. Some folks with both. I like that "both" club. Whether its "worth" it? Guess that depends on budget, unless it flat out sucks. For me it's more about my time than the coin, but I like building stuff, so even that's got its reward.
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Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
Hmmm. The Junfac DIG instructions call for trimming ~15-20mm off the stock plastic rear driveshaft to accommodate the DIG unit. I was bummed when I discovered that the upgrade Junfac carbon driveshafts I bought a few weeks ago were different lengths, but now I'm wondering if Junfac planned for this short/long set to be used with a DIG unit all along... Who knows, but I'll try it.
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Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
The DIG is installed. Shoehorned. Stuffed. Jam packed. Tight. The instructions were solid. The process worked. There's not a lot of room to maneuver. Glad I'm using the Junfac carbon shafts due to their smaller diameter. Used the Gmade RTR high-torque/metal servo to drive the DIG. Needs to be tuned.
Still need to get the ESC, BEC and Servo power bypass harness in place.
Everything seems to clear and just fit; so far, so good.
It's pretty.
The southern view
Still need to get the ESC, BEC and Servo power bypass harness in place.
Everything seems to clear and just fit; so far, so good.
It's pretty.
The southern view
Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
Update - the DIG works, but not without issues. Two specifically.
1. The rear out-shaft bearing in the DIG keeps sliding out of its machined shoulder. Maybe a little bit of loctite on the bearing outer surface will hold it in place... Gonna think about solutions.
2. It's easy enough getting the engagement when going into full 4WD from the intermediate rear free-wheel position. Just slide the over forward, give a little throttle, and the engagement clicks in. But, getting it into front wheel drive/rear locked-DIG mode requires the alignment of the engagement to be spot on. And there are only two alignment positions 0 degrees and 180 degrees. It's easy enough if the rear wheels are moving, the engagement will just kick in. But it seems like in an intense hanging crawler scenario, getting the rear DIG is gonna be tough. That said, the 2WD to 4WD switch works just fine, as long as the bearing hasn't shifted.
Some work to do still....
1. The rear out-shaft bearing in the DIG keeps sliding out of its machined shoulder. Maybe a little bit of loctite on the bearing outer surface will hold it in place... Gonna think about solutions.
2. It's easy enough getting the engagement when going into full 4WD from the intermediate rear free-wheel position. Just slide the over forward, give a little throttle, and the engagement clicks in. But, getting it into front wheel drive/rear locked-DIG mode requires the alignment of the engagement to be spot on. And there are only two alignment positions 0 degrees and 180 degrees. It's easy enough if the rear wheels are moving, the engagement will just kick in. But it seems like in an intense hanging crawler scenario, getting the rear DIG is gonna be tough. That said, the 2WD to 4WD switch works just fine, as long as the bearing hasn't shifted.
Some work to do still....
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Sounds like most of the reviews I've read, hope you get it smoother.
I've got a MOA with two motors, the dig makes it so much better climbing
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I've got a MOA with two motors, the dig makes it so much better climbing
Hang up and Drive
Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
Here's a video of it working. On the bench. In the field? Not so sure...
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tIo-RwsYpJM" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
After shifting it a bit, it seems to be engaging better. If I can lock the rear bearing in place, then I can start with some hammer/pawl tricks and polish the surfaces to help reduce the friction and soften the edges of the engagement.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tIo-RwsYpJM" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
After shifting it a bit, it seems to be engaging better. If I can lock the rear bearing in place, then I can start with some hammer/pawl tricks and polish the surfaces to help reduce the friction and soften the edges of the engagement.
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Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
I'm experimenting with a little edge softening and high polish on the all the DIG moving parts to hopefully help them engage a little easier. I have a hunch this will help a lot. The original engagement shaft was all black posivated and very rough. Didn't slide well, and got hung up if the sharp edges weren't precisely aligned. Plus it grabbed the bearing inner race to push it out after a dozen or so cycles. Hopefully this will be a little more forgiving for alignment, and slide into position easier. Also put the thinnest film of blue loctite on the outer race to help anchor it better.
If it still gets hung up when engaging DIG mode and locking the rear wheels, I'll cut in more noticeable beveled ramps on the corners of the engagement shaft so it has a better tendency to self drop into position. It doesn't need a ton of flat surface to lock into place, lots of room for experimentation.
Brings me back to polishing trigger actions to tune and lighten the pull...
If it still gets hung up when engaging DIG mode and locking the rear wheels, I'll cut in more noticeable beveled ramps on the corners of the engagement shaft so it has a better tendency to self drop into position. It doesn't need a ton of flat surface to lock into place, lots of room for experimentation.
Brings me back to polishing trigger actions to tune and lighten the pull...
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Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
Decided that while the DIG unit and motor plate were out, now was the time to cut in and polish beveled ramps on the engagement shaft. It is buttery smooth now when hand actuating. Fingers crossed it's the same when servo driven.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Fit and finish go a long way .... Hoping for you !
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
Thinkcooper
Pebble Pounder
Happy to report that the DIG works great now. It pops into rear locked DIG mode with little effort, rear freewheeling is smooth, and popping back into full 4WD spot on.
My advice to anyone who has the R1 DIG system is to polish up the engagement shaft and soften the hard edges so it'll drop into position. Very firkin cool!
EDIT: Just came back from an hour of playing on a big rock pile at the local harbor. All systems go!
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